Burritos in Bosnia

Texas, a restaurant in Sarajevo.

(Page 2 of 2)

This is not to say that we aren’t prepared with enough fresh meats and vegetables to give the customers everything they ever imagined Texas (or, as the phonetic-minded Bosnians spell it, ‘Teksas’) could be. It is just that this is not America, where the ingredients needed to make the perfect enchilada abound in grocery stores on every corner. On any given night it is the employee’s job to improvise and create with the resources available. One evening, after three rushes and the threat of a fourth, the kitchen announced that the week’s supply of flour had been blown and not a single tortilla could be made—thus I witnessed the birth of enchilada, burrito, and fajita burgers. So, as you can see, here at Texas, one thing we can’t substitute is a quick and clear mind—we still have requests for chicken fajita burgers to this day.

A Cultural Phenomenon

We had a pretty good idea that the food would sell . . .

But we weren’t ready for the storming appreciation by American ex-pats and locals alike, and of the culinary spark Texas added to a country praying for any light at the end of the tunnel. We were a cultural phenomenon in the making. It became evident after the first month that we were the place to eat in town— people were literally traveling for hours to get to Texas. And with the present and potential volume of business, it was evident that diners could not be encouraged to luxuriate over the last drops of their coffee with typical European repose—a practice that becomes more leisurely the further east you travel. It was not our intention to move people like cattle, but we did want to have a reasonable turn-over, giving as many folks a taste of Texas as possible. This meant that arriving on hallowed Texas soil would require a bit of a change in the local cultural mindset.

“I will not do it,” Melanie, a Bosnian waitress, told me after I asked her to drop a check at a group who had occupied a table for four hours. “People do not pay good money just to get shown the door.”

I told her I agreed but that this was no Turkish coffee house and she did not need to feel that she was offending anyone by presenting the bill before the customer asked for it.

But again she insisted, “I can not.”

I mustered my American “go get ‘em” and reminded her that not only could she but she would. I learned quickly that the folks in Bosnia are as strong-minded as they are tall (men average about 6’2” and women are typically at least 5’10”) and handsome. She never did drop the check.

As when dealing with any new group of employees—especially ones with a different culture and customs—it’s best to at least try to see things their way. So we compromised—sort of. Turning tables is now in the job description. But the management recognizes it is a practice that Bosnians do not believe appropriate and so the rule is frequently overlooked. In this way Texas will never be fully Americanized—and probably has no right to be. The important thing is that everyone who works there is proud to be a part of the team bringing the mythic taste of Texas to the deserving folks of Bosnia. It’s a pioneer effort that is probably closer to the real spirit of Texas than the Bosnian employees realize.

Through a perseverance few stateside restaurants would believe, Texas has prospered. Some customers come because they want to know what it is to dine American-style, others are merely homesick, happy to belly-up to the bar and enjoy a cold one beneath the familiar Lone Star flag. Whatever the reasons for Texas’ success, I doubt if anyone would have predicted that the proud people of Bosnia would finally celebrate the end of four years of civil war with ice-cold margaritas and the fiery sweet taste of jalapeño peppers.

The Best Margarita in Town

Gavan Asdorian

Texas Bartender Gavan Asdorian serves up Sarajevo's best margarita

The Bosnian Margarita
One part tequila
One part freshly-squeezed lemon juice
One part lemon syrup concentrate
Two parts water
And the secret ingredient—a dash of mandarin liqueur.

Bomb-hollowed building

Bomb-hollowed building across the street from Texas Bomb-hollowed building across the street from Texas.

Four years of civil war and the shattered relics of 1,000 years of history envelope Sarajevo. One decade prior the city boasted a modern skyline, which was the pride of Europe and host of the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. The Parliament building, just a handful of blocks from Texas, acted as the front line. It still stands in disrepair. Governors and foreign officials crowd into the former museum for matters of state.

Two years after the war, commerce is starting to flock back to the gateway to the East. A western migration is being felt with the development of an economy and businesses such as Texas.

Sarajevo boasts one of the lowest crime rates in all of Europe and rumors swell about the possibility of another Winter Olympic bid.

Texas steak

Bosnians know their cattle. If there is one thing we always have, it’s beef.
—Warfield Paco Rodgers, head chef of Texas

This might be true but it’s Paco that makes it right.

8 ounces of Bosnian, aged tenderloin rubbed with salt and pepper, marinated in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and oregano, and cooked to order. Texas serves the steak with sautèed red peppers and onions, roasted herb potatoes, and Mexican fried rice.

Homemade barbecue sauce finishes the dish and keeps ‘em coming back for more.

16 ounces tomato paste
steak sauce
4 ounces of honey
3 tablespoons butter
the juice of one lemon
1 teaspoon of salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Combine with a small, caramelized onion and 2 cloves of garlic and let simmer for 15 minutes and you’ve got the best darn barbecue sauce this side of the Atlantic.

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