Travel
A Grand Tour by the Gulf
In October, when it doesn't sizzle, plan a trip to Padre Island, Brownsville, the Gladys Porter Zoo, and H. Matamoros.
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Inside you'll find simple but exquisite displays of tinware, lacquered boxes, ceramics, copper, textiles, furniture, baskets, silver, jewelry , and dollhouse trappings. Prices are more reasonable than those at most of the other shops in town save for the city markets (the newest at Ocho and Matamoros and an older one on Matamoros between Ocho and Nueve) where bargains are to be had if you are an adroit haggler. The markets, however, don't have the quality merchandise found at the Centro Artesanal. Down every street are tourist shops bulging with everything from onyx chess sets to purses made out of armadillo shells—face, feet, and all. Haggling is also expected at most of these.
The real lure of Matamoros is its surprising restaurant population. You can get anything from haute cuisine to barbecued goat on a spit. Most border restaurants offer—for about $3—a house (or is it tourist) dinner: salad, choice of two meats (white wing, quail, cabrito, and filet), French fries, refritos, and onion rings. Perhaps the most popular spot for visitors .at Matamoros is The Drive In (Iturbide at Seis). Some 40 years ago it actually was a drive in, but now is a combination curio shop (liquor, jewelry, crafts), cocktail lounge, restaurant, and aviary. Customers dress in everything from magenta flowered Hawaiian sport shirts to evening attire, but the men will not feel out of place in coats and ties. Soft lights, a string orchestra, a small dance floor, continental cuisine, and south-of-the-border flavor add up to a romantic (and even economical) evening.
They offer (in addition to the choose-two-meats-dinner) quail, cabrito, and seafood entrees, along with a selection of continental dishes (even these are served with refritos, French fries, onions, and hot peppers). Nachos are good for nibbling while you sip a margarita and peruse the menu. For an interesting appetizer, try the smoked eels, a heap of long thin creatures served in an avocado half. For an entree, the quail has been excellent, the cabrito sometimes good, the Steak Diane beautifully prepared, and the Chateaubriand tasty but chewy (Mexican beef is not always as tender as its counterpart in the United States). For dessert don't pass up the crepe Suzette sauced with a memorable combination of rum, brandy, kirsch, creme de cacao, licor de naranjas, and fresh citrus juices.
Less touristy than the Drive In is the Hotel Ritz (Matamoros at Siete)—pronounce it Hotel REETZ for your cabbie. This quiet businessmen's hotel has a sparsely elegant dining room with silver appointments and stoic waiters who must have been installed with the fixtures. On weekends, your fellow diners (usually only a few) will be local folks. The menu, although offering the "two meat" dinners, is more regional than that of the Drive In. One of our two favorite dishes here is the caldo tlalpeno, a heavenly soup made with a rich chicken broth and studded with fresh tomato, avocado, and hunks of chipotle chiles (Muy picante!). Our other favorite dish is the broiled robalo, a fish which we think is probably sea bass. It comes in a lovely, garlicky, lemon and butter sauce. The fried version isn't as good.
The Santa Fe, as its name doesn't imply, dispenses Cantonese food. Although the main fascination of this restaurant is the Chinese people speaking Spanish, the food can be exceptional. We are especially fond of the Chinese silver noodle soup and the red snapper with Chinese vegetables.
The best cabrito is found in the little shops featuring whole goats roasted on spits in the windows. Don't miss the hard rolls served at almost all the restaurants or the boiled corn on the cob with chili sauce sold by street vendors in the fall. Drink the water in any sizable restaurant—it's bottled—and stick to beer and margaritas if a place looks questionable. We have downed greens and raw vegetables in most of the larger restaurants without ill effects, perhaps because we were galvanized by the chiles and margaritas.
ACCOMMODATIONS
With food and entertainment under control, all you need now is a place to hang your sombrero and to stow your sea shells. The companion list of accommodations is not complete, but will give you a start. Keep in mind that all numbers are in area code 512 and addresses are in zip code 78578. We have quoted two sets of prices when appropriate, one for the summer and holidays, and the second for the off season (usually after Labor Day to May, except for Christmas and Easter). Under each of these we have given the lowest rate for two people in a room (no kitchen) and the lowest rate for two people in a room with kitchen. Condominiums and some motels will only have rooms with kitchens.
If you choose to rent a kitchenette, condominium, or beach house, you will find yourself provided with a stove, refrigerator, pots, dishes, and cutlery. Come bearing paper towels, detergent, a sponge, baggies, and other vital kitchen paraphernalia. You should also bring some kerosene (nail polish remover or lighter fluid will do to get the ubiquitous tar off your feet. Bottled water, available anywhere on the island, will come in handy. The water from the tap is ghastly. It's adequate for brushing teeth and bathing, and it won't kill you if you drink it, but it ruins ice tea and bourbon.
CAMPING
Andy Bowie Park (north of commercial development)
P. O. Box 666
Daily rates: Trailer-camper spaces: $2 ($2.50 with a/c)
No restrooms at this writing.
Holiday Inn Travel-Park
P.O. Box 2106, Tel. 943-2681
Daily rates: Trailer-camper spaces: $5 (season) $4 (offseason)
Prices include water, electricity, sewer.
Isla Blanca Park (south end of island)
P.O. Box 666
Daily rates: Camp-out cabins: $8.42
Four beds, 2 burner stove, no linens or utensils, restrooms and showers in central bldg. (For the young and hardy)
Trailer-camper spaces: $2 ($2.50 with a/c)
Tent spaces: $1.50
Bath house and coin laundry (for trailer-camper, tents).
MOTELS and CONDOMINIUMS
Laguna side:
Sand Castle
P.O. Box 2123, Tel. 943-1321
Daily rates: Summer/Holiday $22
Winter $15
All have kitchens, pool. Large complex.
Sea Ranch Motel and Marina
P.O. Box 2106, Tel. 943-2681
Daily Rates: Summer $13-22 Winter $11-18
Pool, boat mooring: $1.50 first 25' (20¢ per extra foot)
Medium complex.
The Village
P.O. Box 2118, Tel. 943-1091
Daily rates: Summer $15 Winter unknown
All have kitchens, pool. Small complex
Gulf side:
Capri
P.O. Box 2059, Tel. 943-2221
Daily rates: Summer $18 Winter $13
Pool, double bed, kitchenette. Small complex.
Dunes
P.O. Box 2064, Tel. 943-2271
Daily rate: Summer $16-17 Winter $11-12.50
Children especially welcomed. Small complex.
El Padre
P.O. Box 2070, Tel. 942-2261
Daily rates: Summer $15.50-20.50 Winter $13-15
Pool, individual cabins available. Small complex.
La Concha Condominium Apartments
P.O. Box 2105, Tel. 943-2228
Daily rates: Summer $120 per week Winter unknown
One bedroom, 2 bath (larger ones available), pool. Small complex.
Marisol Condominium
P.O. Box 2301, Tel. 943-1193
Daily rates: Summer $40 Winter unknown
Two bedrooms, 1 bath, sleeps 4, pool.
Medium complex.
Miramar
P.O. Box 2100, Tel. 943-2691
Daily rates: Summer $22-26 Winter $16-18
Pool. Medium complex
Palms Resort Condominium
P.O. Box 2099, Tel. 943-1316
Daily rates: Summer $24.50 Winter $17.50
One bedroom, 1 bath, sleeps 4. Medium complex
Sandy Retreat
P.O. Box 2060, Tel. 943-2658
Daily rates: Summer $17-26 Winter $13-19
Pool, restaurant, club. Large complex.
Sea Grape Motel
P.O. Box 2082, Tel. 943-2471
Daily rates: Summer $17 Winter $11
Pool, kitchens, behind the dunes. Small complex.
Sea Island
P.O. Box 2081, Tel. 943-2685
Daily rates: Summer $22.50-24.50
Winter $16.50-18.50
Pool, restaurant, club. Large complex.
Surf Motel
P.O. Box 2099, Tel. 943-2831
Daily rates: Summer $10.50-12.50
Winter $16.50
Small complex.
BEACH HOUSES
Sea Island Development Company, Inc.
P.O. Box 2081, Tel. 943-2621
Daily rates: rates vary as do the houses
Broker for private beach houses all over the island.
Parting Thoughts
After we have taken our last swim, packed away our hoard of shells, checked under the beds for stray shoes, dusted the sand off our feet, and climbed into the car for the trek home, we make two last stops in Port Isabel. The first one is a long the waterfront (turn left as you cross the bridge) to fill the empty places in our cooler with fresh Gulf seafood. The second is at DeFord's Aloe Vera and Cactus Garden (Garcia St.) to select some specimens of aloe, cacti, and tropical plants. So laden, we head north for the winter.
Felecia Coates and Harriet Howle are the authors of the forthcoming
Texas Monthly's Guide to Houston, a paperback bonanza of information on restaurants (Tony's to The Havana Cube), shopping (handmade puppets to southern sugar maple), doing things (Planned Parenthood Book Sale to Charity Cat Show), joining things (Hemerocallis Society to the Houston Designer Craftsmen), and sports (rugby to trained buzzard acts).
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