State Fare

Four Seasons Hotel, Riverside Cafe, Austin

With the Four Seasons Hotel’s sweeping view of one of Austin’s most unusual vistas — nightly bat flights snake out from under the Congress Avenue bridge and push east along Town Lake — dinners at the hotel’s Riverside Cafe (98 San Jacinto) are a double feature that’s hard to top. But the food here never plays a supporting role to the drama in the skies.

Executive chef Elmar Prambs’s offerings, such as the cheese strudel with smoked salmon and basil, are photogenic as well as versatile. This flaky, toothsome rendition of a German favorite, accompanied by tomato flowerpots stuffed with edible flowers, turns a meal into a big production.

Recipe for Riverside Cafe’s Cheese Strudel With Smoked Salmon.

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