State Fare

River Cafe, 3615 Montrose, Houston

by Patricia Sharpe

January 1993

Back Talk

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In 1980, when Armando Miranda took his first job in America as a line cook, he barely knew a muffin from a mousse. That has changed. In his peregrinations through prominent Houston restaurants, including the River Cafe, he taught himself to cook. Even today he’s a free spirit. “I don’t go to books for recipes,” he says. “I play around with ingredients.” He loves Southwestern cuisine—all those peppers and wild stuff”—and he uses nuts and seeds for flavor and texture. His two-tone sesame-crusted scallops are striking, and the accompanying grilled eggplant with mozzarella, tomatoes, and red onions provides an arresting visual counterpoint.

Two-tone sesame-crusted scallops are striking, and the accompanying grilled eggplant with mozzarella, tomatoes, and red onions provides an arresting visual counterpoint.

Recipes from Armando Miranda of the River Cafe.
Grilled Eggplant
Sesame-Crusted Scallop

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