October 1997

Table of Contents

Find the access code — required to read stories online — on the third contents page in the most recent issue of Texas Monthly. Subscribers can also visit our Customer Care page to get the code. Subscribe now and get instant access.

Features

The Real West Texas

High peaks, scant rain, and hardpan soil—but also high art, hip hotels, and a new telescope that’s a star in its own right: Snapshots from a remote region of our state unlike anyplace else on earth.

Rough and Ready

The secrets of Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Sweating It Out

How I survived a course in desert survival. Chihuahuan Desert.

The Road to Nowhere

A drive that’s unforgettable to the end.

My Favorite Marfa

It’s still the best little town in Texas.

Hallie and Farewell

The life and legacy of a Texas icon.

Not-So-Loving County

So few people, yet so many feuds.

Clifford’s Blues

Up on federal drug charges for the second time in fifteen years, the impresario of Antone’s nightclub in Austin may finally have to face the music.

It’s a Wrap

What happens when the modern world gets its hands on the lowly burrito? A food fad is born.

Plus:

Wrap It Yourself

How to stuff a wild tortilla.

The Purple Passion of Sandra Cisneros

Has the best-known Latina writer of our day painted herself into a corner?

Columns

Behind the Lines

Seven Women

Should Texas execute a woman? You could debate that question to death.

Television

Pup Culture

Thanks to his penchant for classic literature, Wishbone is the new top dog in kids’ entertainment.

Religion

Jailhouse Flock

What is ex–football star Bill Glass’s plan for reforming hardened prison inmates? God is in the details.

Books

Writes of Passage

Getting published was supposed to be a cure-all, but for Austinite Louise Redd, it was just another chapter in the life of a struggling novelist.

Texana

Historical Friction

Conflicting accounts of the killing of German immigrants in the Hill Country during the Civil War are creating a certain amount of dis-Comfort.

Music

Rare Byrd

Beaumont’s Tracy Byrd may be a hunky, hitmaking hat act, but if it’s all the same, he’d rather be singing an old Bob Wills tune.

Politics

Cop-out

Why is it so hard for cities like Austin to hire a police chief?

Reporter

Reporter

Mrs. Ed.

Is the most outspoken member of the State Board of Education a selfless public servant or simply a prima Donna?

Reporter

Air Fair?

The plane truth about airline surcharges.

Reporter

Car Talk

Stanley Marsh 3’s mobile autos.

Reporter

Titillating

A new sports bar inspires Abilenians to get something off their chest.

The Ex Files

Dan Rather

Low Talk

Burning Bridges

For Robert James Waller, life imitates art—and irritates wife.

Miscellaneous

The Inside Story

Travelin’ Man

Recipe

Wrap It Yourself

How to stuff a wild tortilla.

Last Page

“Tex”

Which Tex sang “High Noon” and which was a member of the Manson family?

Roar of the Crowd

Shop Talk

The ins and outs of Saks appeal.

State Fare

Pesto, change-o: Luigi’s in Galveston serves up a magical veal dish.