Grilled Scallops

From chef Louis Cressy, Bistro Lancaster, Houston.

Many flavor combinations are fine, but few are heavenly. In our humble opinion, executive chef Louis Cressy’s sprightly grilled scallops, a specialty of Houston’s Bistro Lancaster (Lancaster Hotel, 701 Texas Avenue), fits the latter category. The just-done scallops are little morsels of edible silk, the cabbage is savory and tender, and the fried wonton garnish is both tasty and fun. But it’s the aromatic broth—an irresistible and unconventional blending of chipotle and cascabel chiles, fresh ginger, lime juice, and maple syrup—that makes the dish divine. Keep it in mind should you ever have to cook for Saint Peter. One taste and he’ll let you in.

Scallops
20 large (U-10)
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 lime, sliced
8 sprigs cilantro

Rinse scallops in cold water and remove small muscle attached to side. Place in medium bowl with olive oil, lime, and cilantro. Marinate in refrigerator for 2 hours. Just before serving, cook on a very hot grill until medium rare (about 2 minutes each side).

Chipotle Ginger Broth
4 medium chipotle chiles
2 cascabel chiles
1 tablespoon cooking oil
1 medium onion, julienne cut
6 large shallots, julienne cut
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon grated ginger
1 cup (8 ounces) veal stock (canned beef broth may be used)
1 cup (8 ounces) chicken stock (canned may be used)
4 tablespoons maple syrup, or to taste
4 tablespoons lime juice, or to taste
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon white pepper

Soak the chiles in hot water until pliable. Pat dry, remove seeds and veins, and cut into julienne strips. Put oil in a heavy, nonreactive pan and cook the chiles, onion, shallots, garlic, and ginger over high heat until well caramelized. Add veal and chicken stocks and cook over medium heat until reduced by 1/3. Add maple syrup, lime juice, salt, and pepper. You will have broth left over.

Blanched Cabbage
1 head napa cabbage ¼ cup salt
4 wonton wrappers (optional garnish; available in produce section or frozen foods)

Cut cabbage crosswise into 1-inch slices starting at top. Discard bottom inch. Rinse and drain, then add to large pot (about 1 gallon) of boiling salted water and cook 2 minutes. Remove and plunge into ice water if not to be served immediately. Rewarm in a little boiling water while scallops are cooking. If using wonton wrappers as garnish, cut slits in from three sides and fry in shallow oil until golden brown.

To serve, divide cabbage among 4 dinner plates or shallow bowls, surround each portion with 5 scallops, and pour a generous ¼ cup of broth around cabbage. Garnish each with a fried wonton. Serves 4.