March 1999

Table of Contents

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Features

The Best of Small-Town Texas

Where to stay. Where to play. Where to eat. Where to shop. What to see. From Abram to Yoakum, a special report on our favorite down-home destinations.

Hotels

Big, breezy porches in Port Aransas, the only heated pool for miles in Marathon: You’ll get more than just a bed and breakfast at these ten appealing places to stay.

Museums

Bronzes by Remington and Russell in Orange, Quanah Parker’s trail bonnet in Canyon: Ten spaces that excel at the art of exhibition.

Restaurants

A creamy quiche of spinach, cheese, and mushrooms in Comfort, smashingly good smashed turnips in Granbury: These and other delicious dishes at ten extraordinary eateries.

Sports

Hot hurdling in Giddings, super six-man football in Gordon: Ten towns that got game.

Shops

Elegant antebellum furniture in Jefferson, Latin American folk art in Smithville: Where the buys are in two dozen communities.

Music Clubs

Old country and western in Mingus, zippy zydeco in Bridge City: The shows always go on at these ten tuneful spots.

Squares

A masterpiece of courthouse architecture in Waxahachie, a handsome jail of native stone in Marfa: Significant structures line the streets of five terrific town centers.

Radio

Play-by-play coverage of high school baseball in Alpine, polka and Pan-American music in El Campo: More than a dozen reasons not to touch that dial.

Cemeteries

Simple wooden crosses in Terlingua, carefully delineated stonework in Jefferson: Five great graveyards that run the gamut.

Townsfolk

La Grange’s Mr. Barbecue, the police chief of Athens: Fifteen local characters with, er, character.

Columns

Books

Windfall

Call it A Simpler Plan: Austinite Jim Magnuson’s new novel is about the consequences of finding a lot of money—and it’s a good read.

Behind the Lines

Fix the Roof

A case for the parks.

Media

Urban Cowboy

Peter Jennings. Liz Smith. Barbara Walters. Joe Armstrong? You may not know the name, but New York publishing’s most famous ex-Abilenian is at home among the stars—and is a star in his own right.

Architecture

Suburban Renewal

How three Dallas area developers are beating back the threat of soulless sprawl by restoring a sense of community.

Music

What She Deserves

Ten years ago she was the Next Big Thing. She still is. Meet Kelly Willis all over again.

Reporter

Reporter

Grading George W.

Is George W. Bush’s nascent presidential campaign making the grade?

Reporter

Not Happy

The faking of Happy, Texas.

Reporter

Sour Notes

A tejano rift widens.

Reporter

Score!

One of college basketball’s great coaches finally gets his due.

Now Hear This

A Harmonious Homecoming

Jason Moran, Houston native and jazz pianist.

Low Talk

Aftermath

Sympathy for Jerry Hall

State Secrets

This Year’s Remodel

After watching their business districts wither away as companies set up shop in the suburbs, Texas cities and towns are banding together to fight back.

The Ex Files

Lucinda Williams

Miscellaneous

Roar of the Crowd

Steered Wrong

State Fare

Miso-Glazed Shrimp

Shellfish? Swellfish. One bite of miso-glazed shrimp at Dallas’ Green Room and you’ll be hooked.

Texas Primer

Bob Wills

Which future Texas governor hired Bob Wills to play on his Fort Worth radio show?

The Inside Story

Let’s Get Small