State Fare

From Tony Ruppe’s, Houston

by Patricia Sharpe

October 2000

Back Talk

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Houston chef Tony Ruppe has decided that “paper bread” is a much better name than “filo” for those irresistibly thin, crackly leaves of Greek pastry. At his restaurant, Tony Ruppe’s (3939 Montrose), he puts paper bread to good use, wrapping it around nuggets of herbed goat cheese and baking the resulting triangular packets to a crisp, golden turn. Together with toasted almonds, grilled apples, and baked shallots, they make a savory nosh that goes beautifully with a glass of white wine. Whatever you call the pastry, we call the dish delicious.

Try this recipe for Baked Herbed Goat Cheese from Tony Ruppe’s.

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