Pat’s Pick
Primary Flavors
by Stacy Hollister
January 2003
PASS THE PEAS, PLEASE We have a friend—an all-grown-up adult friend, mind you—whose mother won't let her leave the New Year's table without downing 365 black-eyed peas (gulp!). That's one seed of the lucky legume for each day of the upcoming year. But even if you have trouble swallowing this Southern belief—which has its roots in a Civil War-era tale in which Union troops wiped out all crops except the plucky cowpea—you might want to put away a few peas on January 1, just in case. If you don't have a family recipe, here are ideas from three Texas chefs to help you out. Oscar Trejo, of San Antonio's
Liberty Bar (328 E. Josephine, 210-227-1187), cooks up a spunky cross-cultural stew with sausage, ham hock, fresh vegetables, and poblano. At
Ouisie's Table (3939 San Felipe, 713-528-2264) in Houston, owner Elouise Jones honors tradition with hoppin' John black-eyed-pea relish, a chilled condiment that gets its kicks from tomato, onion, cilantro, jalapeño, and one smoked turkey neck. Chef Mynetta Cockerell, of
Marty's Bistro (3316 Oak Lawn, 214-526-7796) in Dallas, does a mean pea salsa spiked with chile and cayenne.
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