Stagestruck

STAGESTRUCK At Aurora, the key word is "drama." You step into the small, curtained vestibule of this new Dallas restaurant. The hostess ceremoniously verifies your reservation ("Omigod," you think. "What if they don't have my name?"). Then she flings open the draperies to reveal a jewel box of a dining room. A different play is presented every night on this stage: Chef Avner Samuel writes and directs; nattily attired cooks perform in the gleaming open kitchen; a supporting cast of eagle-eyed waiters patrols the tables. Prologue: complimentary Evian or San Pellegrino—I like the script already. Act I: a brilliant amuse-bouche of truffled egg custard topped by maple syrup-scented Chantilly cream cleverly presented in a brown egg shell—I see a tour de force in the offing. Act II: an appetizer of braised halibut cheek sided by niçoise-olive tapenade, a bundle of crisp haricots verts, and a darling hard-cooked quail egg—the plot thickens. Intermission: blood-peach sorbet garnished with pomegranate seeds—definitely thumbs-up. Act III: filets of braised Dover sole wrapped around perfectly cooked diver scallops with white-truffle butter sauce and whipped purple potatoes—I'm applauding wildly. Epilogue: rice pudding brûlée studded with—so help me—tiny bits of crystallized truffle and garnished with matchsticks of candied orange. Bravo! Aurora is in for a long run. PATRICIA SHARPE

PIE AND MIGHTY Just because you're too busy to bake a holiday pie doesn't mean you're a bad person. Give yourself a break and order one of these superlative pies by mail. The monster apple pie from Texas Heritage Provisions Company, in the East Texas town of Jasper, stands more than three inches tall and weighs an astonishing five and a half pounds. Sliced thin—the better to absorb more sugar and cinnamon—the apples stay admirably crisp (866-489-9400, thpc.net; $29.99 plus $5-$12 for overnight shipping). It's no surprise that the fine apple pie from Tootie Pie, in the Central Texas town of Medina, is close in size and shape to the Provisions Company's creation, because the businesses use nearly identical recipes. The only differences we detected were softer apples and perhaps a bit more cinnamon in the Tootie pie. We suspect the excellent crumbly crusts are made with Crisco, but the piemakers won't say (830-589-2994, $37.50). For twenty years, Houston-based Goode Company has been shipping pecan pies around the country in attractive wooden boxes branded with the slogan "You might give some serious thought to thanking your lucky stars you're in Texas." Syrupy sweet (the way they're supposed to be), each one weighs three and a half pounds and is generously topped with toasted pecan halves (800-627-3502, goodecompany.com; $35). The luscious pecan pie from Royers Round Top Cafe sports our favorite crust of all—Crisco-based and obviously handmade. Produced in the east Central Texas town of Round Top, it tips the scales at two and three quarters pounds (877-866-7437, royersroundtopcafe.com; $28.95). By the way, all our orders arrived in good shape and on time. Prices include two-day shipping unless otherwise noted. PATRICIA SHARPE

UNDERGROUND GOURMET Troubles with your love life? Truffles could be the answer. We're speaking of the exotic fungus, a purported aphrodisiac as well as a turn-on for any epicure. Truffles grow underground in Europe (especially France and Italy) and in Oregon, and with the peak of the season each November, they are harvested with the assistance of specially trained pigs and dogs. Look for fresh truffles at these restaurants throughout the month. In Austin, Asti will feature a five-course truffle-inspired feast (fresh truffle-topped fontina risotto is being considered) during the third week of November; Vespaio gets in the act with such creations as made-to-order creamy carnaroli risotto with fresh shaved black truffles; and Jeffrey's offers truffle dinners throughout November (venison Wellington with black truffles). Dallas's Mi Piaci celebrates the season with a white-truffle risotto; York Street with soft-scrambled duck eggs with black truffles. Arcodoro & Pomodoro, in Dallas, and Arcodoro, in Houston, tempt you with dishes such as carpaccio afrodisiaco (thin-sliced beef tenderloin with buffalo mozzarella and white-truffle shavings). In Houston, Rouge's poached guinea fowl with black truffles is sure to sweep you off your feet. In San Antonio, a truffle cheese course highlights the truffle-tasting menu at Las Canarias at La Mansión del Rio Hotel, while delicate truffled poached eggs grace Le Rêve's. If anyone asks about your newfound passion, just tell them Wilbur sent you. KATHARYN RODEMANN