September 2004 Cover

September 2004

Table of Contents

Features

A century after the cowboys and ranchers moved in on the local Apaches, Comanches, and Tejanos, the West Texas town is adjusting to a new breed of excitable invaders: Hollywood fashion arbiters, New York art- world youngsters, Houston superlawyers, and the like. Cappuccino, anyone?

Although some might consider the Kilgore Rangerettes an anachronism, every summer dozens of fresh-faced teens from around the state flock to East Texas to perfect a seemingly effortless hat-brim-touching high kick—and preserve one of the state's great traditions.

The car crash that killed four teenage girls in Tatum last September is an East Texas version of a Greek tragedy, one that has forced the tiny town's residents to address some of life's most agonizing questions: When the worst things happen—when the most heartbreaking events come into your life to stay—whom do you blame? Whom should you blame?

Eight years ago, 42 people in the West Texas town of Roby—7 percent of the population—pooled their money, bought lottery tickets, and won $46 million. And that's when their luck ran out.

Could Ray Fernandez, the grandson of a Mexican American maid, be the rightful heir to the vast Kenedy fortune, including the family's mythic South Texas ranch?

Columns

Behind the Lines

My favorite not-so-small town.

Jason Cohen

To say that the private prison in Eden doesn't creep out the locals is an understatement. They're downright thankful for the place.

Kinky Friedman

Why do I live where I live? To get away from the Peruvian marching powder—and because my door was ajar.

John Morthland

The Panhandle town may be the first in Texas to decide to base its economy on nature tourism. Judging by the results, it won't be the last.

Jan Jarboe Russell

My parents and I had a generation gap. My kids and I have a geographic gap, as I learned when I took my son to my hometown of Cleveland.

Reporter

Reporter

A West Texas road race, the Super Bowl of six-man football—and, arguably, the world's first rodeo.

Reporter

An old-fashioned carousel, an authentic pioneer village—and starry, starry nights.

Reporter

Delicate pine-needle baskets, rustic Italian tableware—and a $1,200 bottle of Pétrus.

Reporter

Pecan-crusted trout, lamb chops with salsa verde— and salads wearing fresh flowers.

Reporter

Blues, rockabilly, classic honky-tonk—and maybe even Jimmy Buffett.

Reporter

Watercolor landscapes, pre-Columbian objects— and a painting by Modigliani.

Book Review

Book Review

Music Review

Music Review

The Filter

Pat’s Pick

Miscellany

Texas Monthly Talks

"I like to go out at night. I like to sit in a nice room and look at beautiful women. I don't want to just sit on my back porch drinking scotch, and there isn't much more to do in Archer City."

Web Exclusives

Here's to the smallest incorporated town in the Lone Star State.

Associate editor Katy Vine, who wrote this month's cover story, "Alive and Kicking," talks about getting inside Rangerette culture.

Senior editor Pamela Colloff on Roby, the lottery, and bad luck.

Executive editor Skip Hollandsworth on Tatum and taking sides.

Senior editor Gary Cartwright on researching the Kenedy family, one of the state's ranching dynasties.

Associate art director T. J. Tucker, who grew up on a ranch near Baird, in Callahan County, talks about hauling hay and hitting the back roads.

In his new book Texas Road Trip, Bryan Woolley tells some great stories. Here he talks about working at the Dallas Morning News, driving around the state, and preserving a little bit of Texas.

For the Bethel Dozen, a group of friends who won the Texas Lotto, it doesn't get much better.

And in Blanco, things are happening.

Contributing photographer Artie Limmer on taking pictures in Roby and the best thing about his job.

W. Marvin Watson talks about LBJ's greatest achievement as a politician and writing his book, Chief of Staff: Lyndon Johnson and His Presidency.

In Italy, 45 miles south of Dallas, time seems to move unhurried for everyone.

On September 12, 1940, the Kilgore Rangerettes stepped out onto the football field for their first performance—and changed the future of halftime shows at football games across the state.

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