September 2004

Table of Contents

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Features

"The Buzz About Marfa Is Just Crazy"

A century after the cowboys and ranchers moved in on the local Apaches, Comanches, and Tejanos, the West Texas town is adjusting to a new breed of excitable invaders: Hollywood fashion arbiters, New York art- world youngsters, Houston superlawyers, and the like. Cappuccino, anyone?

Alive and Kicking

Although some might consider the Kilgore Rangerettes an anachronism, every summer dozens of fresh-faced teens from around the state flock to East Texas to perfect a seemingly effortless hat-brim-touching high kick—and preserve one of the state's great traditions.

Wrecked

The car crash that killed four teenage girls in Tatum last September is an East Texas version of a Greek tragedy, one that has forced the tiny town's residents to address some of life's most agonizing questions: When the worst things happen—when the most heartbreaking events come into your life to stay—whom do you blame? Whom should you blame?

Reversal of Fortune

Eight years ago, 42 people in the West Texas town of Roby—7 percent of the population—pooled their money, bought lottery tickets, and won $46 million. And that's when their luck ran out.

Sarita's Secret

Could Ray Fernandez, the grandson of a Mexican American maid, be the rightful heir to the vast Kenedy fortune, including the family's mythic South Texas ranch?

Columns

Jason Cohen

Yes in My Backyard

To say that the private prison in Eden doesn't creep out the locals is an understatement. They're downright thankful for the place.

Behind the Lines

Up and Away

My favorite not-so-small town.

Kinky Friedman

Man About Town

Why do I live where I live? To get away from the Peruvian marching powder—and because my door was ajar.

John Morthland

O, Canadian!

The Panhandle town may be the first in Texas to decide to base its economy on nature tourism. Judging by the results, it won't be the last.

Jan Jarboe Russell

Into The Woods

My parents and I had a generation gap. My kids and I have a geographic gap, as I learned when I took my son to my hometown of Cleveland.

Reporter

Reporter

Sports

A West Texas road race, the Super Bowl of six-man football—and, arguably, the world's first rodeo.

Reporter

Family Fun

An old-fashioned carousel, an authentic pioneer village—and starry, starry nights.

Reporter

Shopping

Delicate pine-needle baskets, rustic Italian tableware—and a $1,200 bottle of Pétrus.

Reporter

Food

Pecan-crusted trout, lamb chops with salsa verde— and salads wearing fresh flowers.

Reporter

Music

Blues, rockabilly, classic honky-tonk—and maybe even Jimmy Buffett.

Reporter

Art

Watercolor landscapes, pre-Columbian objects— and a painting by Modigliani.

Previews+Reviews

Books

The best new books from Texas.

Previews+Reviews

Music

The best new music from Texas.

The Filter

Pat's Pick

Café 909

Pat's Pick

Chip, Chip, Hooray!

Miscellaneous

Texas Monthly Talks

Larry McMurtry

"I like to go out at night. I like to sit in a nice room and look at beautiful women. I don't want to just sit on my back porch drinking scotch, and there isn't much more to do in Archer City."

Atsbox

09.17.04

Atsbox

ON THE ROAD

Atsbox

HEY, YOU!

Texas Tidbits

Here's to the smallest incorporated town in the Lone Star State.

Web Extra

All-American Girls

Associate editor Katy Vine, who wrote this month's cover story, "Alive and Kicking," talks about getting inside Rangerette culture.

Web Extra

True Stories

Senior editor Pamela Colloff on Roby, the lottery, and bad luck.

Web Extra

A Small-Town Tragedy

Executive editor Skip Hollandsworth on Tatum and taking sides.

Web Extra

Kenedy Mystique

Senior editor Gary Cartwright on researching the Kenedy family, one of the state's ranching dynasties.

Web Extra

Country Boy

Associate art director T. J. Tucker, who grew up on a ranch near Baird, in Callahan County, talks about hauling hay and hitting the back roads.

Web Extra

Travelin' Man

In his new book Texas Road Trip, Bryan Woolley tells some great stories. Here he talks about working at the Dallas Morning News, driving around the state, and preserving a little bit of Texas.

Web Extra

Life Is Good

For the Bethel Dozen, a group of friends who won the Texas Lotto, it doesn't get much better.

Web Extra

It's Saturday Night

And in Blanco, things are happening.

Web Extra

Small-Town Hospitality

Contributing photographer Artie Limmer on taking pictures in Roby and the best thing about his job.

Web Extra

A Time to Remember

W. Marvin Watson talks about LBJ's greatest achievement as a politician and writing his book, Chief of Staff: Lyndon Johnson and His Presidency.

Happy Trails

In Italy, 45 miles south of Dallas, time seems to move unhurried for everyone.

Texas History 101

On September 12, 1940, the Kilgore Rangerettes stepped out onto the football field for their first performance—and changed the future of halftime shows at football games across the state.

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