The Greatest Tacos Ever Sold
They’re wrapped in yellow-corn or white-flour tortillas. They’re filled with beef, chicken, pork—even octopus. They’re topped with everything from fresh tomatoes to jalapeño relish. But of the hundreds of combinations we tasted, only one could rank as the best in the state. Are you ready to get your picadillo on?
julie says: take this article down.. It’s old and some restaurants are gone! (October 24th, 2010 at 10:55pm)
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52. Cowboy Taco
Tacodeli | Austin
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Words like “cowboy” and “deli” do not lead you to expect Mexican purity. But purity is not what this tiny place is about. Tacodeli is about tailoring tacos for the mostly Anglo apartment and condo dwellers in the neighborhood. And in the course of doing that, it has created an impressive menu with traditional crossover choices. Take, for instance, the Cowboy Taco: chunks of tenderloin scattered with grilled corn, caramelized onion, queso fresco, and a dab of guacamole (ask for extra guac, plus a knife and fork). Just don’t expect any atmosphere beyond black-vinyl bar stools, concrete floors, and a lone piñata. Still, it’s all agreeable. Order at the cash register and grab a seat at the short counter that looks out on the small tree-shaded patio. 1500 Spyglass Dr., 512-732-0303 (one other location). Open Mon— Fri 7—3, Sat & Sun 8—3.
53. Beef al Carbón
Bocados | Houston
Operating out of a spiffily converted Montrose-area house with hardwood floors, ivy-colored windows, and lemon, avocado, and blueberry walls, Bocados could pass for a classy European bistro. But authentic Mexican tacos al carbón are sold here, and you have to ask for them, because they’re not on the menu. Enhanced by memorably smoky refried beans, they feature tortillas whose imperfect circularity proves they were shaped by human hands, not by a machine. A shot of the chunky, gazpacho-flavored table salsa further moistens slightly caramelized fajitas cut up small but big on flavor. They validate the restaurant’s name, which means “mouthfuls” or “morsels.” Perfect. 1312 W. Alabama, 713-523-5230. Lunch Tue—Fri 11—2:30. Dinner Tue, Wed, Fri, & Sat 5—10, Thur 5—9. Closed Sun & Mon.
54. Pork al Pastor
Beto’s Comida Latina | San Antonio
On any given day, you might find yourself vacillating between the Karla (fried fish with a superlative poblano-yogurt sauce and cilantro-spiked coleslaw) and the pastor, but go for the pastor. Unlike most versions, it’s decidedly juicy and dyed a brilliant red from achiote. The kitchen wisely cuts the pork and raw onion into small pieces, the better to soak up lots of flavor from the seasonings. Add to those basics the excellent homemade corn tortillas and some pineapple pico and you have an eminently satisfying light lunch (it comes with a side salad). The simple, brightly painted counter-service spot doesn’t invite lingering, but that’s not why you order a taco in the first place. 8142 Broadway, 210-930-9393. Open Sun—Thur 11—9, Fri & Sat 11—10.
55. Steak Street Tacos
Blue Mesa Grill | Fort Worth
Known for Southwestern dishes, the hacienda-like, Santa Fe-inspired Blue Mesa also offers Street Tacos in a nod to traditional Mexican village fare. Three varieties—grilled steak, chicken, and shrimp—top a pair of tiny, light white-corn tortillas. All deserve applause, but the small chunks of tender medium-rare steak are superb. Add the usual onion and cilantro, a bit of jícama slaw, and a small spoonful of sweet jalapeño relish and slowly savor each bite. 1600 S. University Dr., 817-332-6372. Open Mon—Thur 11—10, Fri & Sat 11—11, Sun 10—10.
56. Steak
Mexcellente Texas Grande Tacos | Austin
Where you gonna go when taco cravings strike at three in the morning? To the yellow-and-red taco truck at Congress Avenue and Fourth. Actually, you should get there before two, because that’s when the bars close and the ravening mob of barhoppers and pedicab drivers starts lining up. Choose the steak option (though the others are good too), and when the friendly man asks, “Do you want everything on it?” answer yes. The foil-clad monster that’s passed through the window will contain strips of grilled sirloin, rice, whole pintos, guacamole, queso fresco, and your choice of sauce (roasted green tomatillo, which is great, or spicy red tomato). Oh, and they make their own flour tortillas. Congress Ave. and Fourth, 512-789-7524 or 512-779-0654. Open Thur—Sat 9 p.m.— 4 a.m. Closed Sun—Wed.
57. Lucas-Style Beef Brisket
Rio Mambo | Fort Worth
If some dishes seem familiar at this popular, artfully contemporary cafe in the southwest section of town, that’s because it’s an independent spin-off of the Mi Cocina operation. And one of the best borrowed ideas morphed into the grilled brisket Lucas-style tacos. Inside large flour tortillas, browned at the edges, the supple ribbons of beef mix irresistibly with thin strips of roasted poblano chile and grilled onion, melted jack cheese, and crumbles of spicy chorizo. You don’t really need the slices of fresh avocado on the side, but go ahead—they’re worth every gluttonous bite, which will probably require a knife and fork. A glass of the house-made sangria pairs nicely. Cityview Center, Bryant Irvin Rd. at SW Loop 820, 817-423-3124. Open Sun—Thur 11—9:30, Fri & Sat 11—10:30.
58. Barbacoa
El Milagrito | San Antonio
The corner of East Woodlawn and St. Mary’s has been occupied by El Milagrito since 1969, an eternity in restaurant years. Regulars enjoy the plain wooden deck out front, but more often than not you’ll end up inside, where a few pictures of Mexican soccer players and revolutionaries enliven the basic yellow room. The thing to get here is the barbacoa (the rich meat from the cow’s head), which puts others to shame. Why? Because it is devoid of grease and that odd, slightly funky barbacoa taste. Instead, the fat is pressed out after the meat is cooked, and nice, succulent pieces are piled onto your choice of tortilla (the regular-sized ones are homemade, but not the minis). Little plastic cups of raw onion and cilantro come alongside. Actually, it’s better to get the mini version because it has a bonus of fresh avocado slices—mash ’em up and spread ’em on; they add a lot. 521 E. Woodlawn Ave., 210-737-8646. Open Mon—Fri 6 a.m.—3 p.m., Sat & Sun 7—3.
59. Blackened Catfish
J&J Oyster Bar | Fort Worth
Known far and wide for its platters of shrimp, crawfish, and oysters, this come-as-you-are Cultural District hangout now has a new menu favorite, which was originally just a staff meal. Cloaked in blackening spices, domino-size pieces of juicy catfish are grilled and piled into soft, warm white-corn tortillas with kicky pico de gallo and slices of avocado for a thrilling taste rush. With a giant icy-cold schooner of beer, you’ll find nirvana. Sit on the hopping patio in nice weather or hope for one of the booths or tables in the small, busy interior the rest of the time. 612 N. University Dr., 817-335-2756. Open Sun—Thur 11—10, Fri & Sat 11—11.
60. Pork in Green Sauce
Benito’s | Fort Worth
Regulars traipse to this Fairmount neighborhood landmark for interior Mexican dishes like the Oaxacan-style tamale, but the tacos at Benito’s exert a powerful pull too. While the fried deshebrada version is heavenly, few things can beat the pure pleasure of that first bite into the simple and flawless tacos de puerco en salsa verde. Pieces of tender pork, just crisp at the edges and easily shredded, cuddle with chopped white onion, minced cilantro, and a searing green salsa mellowed with a bit of tomatillo inside soft corn tortillas. They go well with black beans on the side, along with a cold Tecate and lime. Everyone’s made to feel welcome inside the serape-strewn rooms. 1450 W. Magnolia Ave., 817-332-8633. Open Mon—Thur 11—9, Fri 11 a.m.—2 a.m., Sat 10 a.m.— 2 a.m., Sun 10—9.
61. Lamb Barbacoa
Tacos a Go-Go | Houston
A giant bust of Carmen Miranda with orange-slice earrings and a pineapple and bananas on her head perches over the door. Inside, you can ogle a mural featuring a devil-horned and -tailed bathing beauty from the Mexican movie Qué lindo cha cha cha. The name and whimsical decor might suggest that Tacos a Go-Go is not serious about its wares. But this cantina-like Midtown storefront takes the trouble to stock Mexican sodas and beers, and its barbacoa taco—a heaping helping of luscious shredded lamb topped with lettuce and diced tomatoes—is some mighty serious eating. 3704 Main, 713-807-8226. Open Mon—Thur 9—10, Fri & Sat 9 a.m.—2 a.m., Sun 9—3 p.m.
62. Fried Oyster
Acenar | San Antonio
This is not your papacito’s taquería. That quaint and picturesque place does not exist within these mod magenta and saffron walls. Acenar is hip and hyped up on hypnotic music. Come here for tacos re-invented for a modern sensibility, specifically for the oyster taco on a homemade corn tortilla. Fluffy, peppery, and salty, these perfectly fried oysters are rolled up with generous amounts of jalapeño-honey mayo, charred pineapple bits, and (don’t roll your eyes) microgreens. Just order a cerveza, get a table by the window so you can watch the palm trees on the River Walk whip in the wind, and think about how the times, they are a-changin’. 146 E. Houston, 210-222-2362. Open Mon—Thur 11—10, Fri & Sat 11—11, Sun 5—9.
63. Nopales
Laredo Taquería | Houston
The porcupine of the plant kingdom, prickly pear cactus is associated more with cartoon humor than with cooking, in yanqui minds, at least. It’s something people fall into backward, not eat for dinner. But the nopales taco at this funky working-class taquería explains why Mexicans have been eating cactus pads forever. Spooned from the steam table into house-made tortillas, the fleshily tender, spicily sour strips of Opuntia ficus-indica combine the flavors and colors of green pepper, string bean, and asparagus. Sparked with tomato and onion, they make a satisfying alternative to meat fillings or a tasty lagniappe on a chicken-and-squash taco. A schmear of beans is free, as is coffee on Mondays when the Texans win. 915 Snover at Washington Ave., 713-861-7279. Open daily 6 a.m.—9 p.m.
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