The Top 50
(Page 2 of 4)
This converted gas station, its service bays occupied by two portable cast-iron pits, immediately filled our tanks with pecan-smoked brisket and tender pepper-crusted pork ribs. The fresh coleslaw made up for a tomatoey sauce better suited to pasta. We ignored the five chain-link-enclosed picnic tables and ate by the car—whose own tank was soon filled by the Buc-Ee’s next door. KR
Rating: 4.5.
507 E. Main, 979-234-5250. Open Thur—Sat 8—6, most Sundays 9—3. Closed Mon—Wed. [Map] elc.net/austins/
EAST BERNARD
Vincek’s Smokehouse
Notable decor: A meat case practically as long as the building itself.
The deer-processing guidelines and Future Farmers of America trophies make one thing clear: Vincek’s loves meat. The brisket, pork ribs, and sausage verified the impression. In a sense, so did the irrelevant, too-sweet sauce. Arrive before noon for homemade bread and kolaches. Stay late for conversation with the regulars. KR
Rating: 4.5.
Texas Hwy. 60 and U.S. 90A, 979-335-7921. Open Tue—Sat 7—6, Sun 8—3. Closed Mon. [Map]
ENNIS
Bubba’s Bar-B-Q
Notable decor: A six-foot-tall cooler filled with raw steaks.
Twenty minutes after opening, the wood-paneled dining room was already filling up with patrons. The hickory-smoked ribs were so good we ate everything that wasn’t bone . . . and kept the bones for marrow-sucking. Sides vary daily, but don’t miss the crisp coleslaw mixed with just enough mayonnaise and a hint of sugar. Forgo the too-sweet sauce. AV
Rating: 4.
210 I-45 S, 972-875-0036. Open 7 days 11–9. [Map]
FANNIN
McMillan’s Bar-B-Q
Notable decor: Hundreds of dollar bills from customers cover the walls.
The secret? “Love,” says 62-year-old Louis McMillan, the owner of this six-table outpost in this tiny town, just west of Victoria. Corny, sure, but that love—along with sixteen-plus hours over an oak-pecan-mesquite mix—turns out moist, tender brisket and fat little baby back ribs that are nicely charred on the outside and pink on the inside. SH
Rating: 4.
9913 U.S. 59, 361-645-2326. Open Sun—Thur 10—6, Fri & Sat 10—7:30. [Map]
FORT WORTH
Cousin’s Barbecue
Chain alert: Cousin’s has five other locations, including two inside the Dallas—Fort Worth Airport.
In barbecue time there’s before, during, and after. Before our meal at Cousin’s, we studied the brisket’s thin, dark crust. During our meal, the smoky taste made us lose track of our other senses. Ribs were rich. Sauce was tart. Sweet beans really were. After, we wondered where the time had gone. MH
Rating: 4.25.
6262 McCart Ave., 817-346-2511. Open Mon—Sat 11—9. Closed Sun. [Map] cousinsbbq.com
GIDDINGS
City Meat Market
Be advised: Meats go fast. Phone orders the day before are recommended.
This friendly shop with blackened walls has been going strong for more than sixty years, and the locals swear by it. Though the brisket was average the day we went, everything else was excellent—pork, sausage, and chicken, all smoked with post oak in an iron-lined and tile-covered brick pit. SGB
Rating: 4.
101 W. Austin, 979-542-2740. Open Mon–Fri 7:30–5:30, Sat 7:30–4. Closed Sun. [Map] citymeatmarket.biz
HARLINGEN
Smokey Joe’s Bar-B-Que and Grill
Notable decor: Bead-encrusted Longhorn skulls crafted by the owner’s dad.
It’s a family affair, with Joe Garza Jr. running the show; his wife, Rose, doing payroll; his dad, Joe Sr., helping out; and his sister-in-law, Nora, making wonderful sides, like deliciously soupy charro beans. Even though the Garzas use a stainless-steel commercial smoker (primed with pecan and mesquite), they get excellent results. This may well be the best barbecue in South Texas. PS
Rating: 4.75.
102 N. Business Hwy. 77 (Sunshine Strip), 956-364-1266. Open Sun—Thur 11—8, Fri & Sat 11—9. [Map]
HONDO
McBee’s Bar-B-Q
Be advised: This McBee's is no longer affiliated with the rest of the McBee's chain.
When San Antonio’s new-home market slowed last year, construction worker Brant Slaughter and his wife, Roxanne, took over the westernmost outpost in this ’cue dynasty. Luckily, they brought along their own family recipes, which call for simple rubs and long hours “babysitting” the meat in the twin pits. Moist brisket had a crunchy black crust; rib meat fairly jumped off the bone. If you use a hunting lease within one hundred miles of Hondo, you’re cheating yourself if you don’t stop in. J.Spong
Rating: 4.5.
1301 Nineteenth, 830-426-4045. Open Sun & Tue—Thur 10:30—6:30, Fri & Sat 10:30—8:30. Closed Mon. [Map]
HOUSTON
Burns Bar-B-Que Cooking and Catering
Menu surprise: Extremely hot hot links. Seriously.
There’s always a line at this clapboard take-out shack. Plump, pink pork ribs, cooked over post oak in a steel pit for two and a half hours, were irresistible. Smoky brisket was fall-apart tender. Commercially made beef-and-pork links tasted decidedly uncommercial. The sauce was tangy, good for dipping ribs and links. The sole sides were mustardy potato salad and saucy beans, both made with care. JM
Rating: 4.75.
8307 DePriest, 281-445-7574. Open Wed—Sat 10:30— 7:30. Closed Sun—Tue. [Map]
HOUSTON
Virgie’s Bar-B-Que
Notable decor: Walls sanctified with religious iconography.
Three-plus years ago, Adrian Hands-borough converted the neighborhood convenience store his mom, Virgie, ran for 35 years and began cooking over oak and pecan in two small barrels. His brisket, only a tad fatty, smokes for ten to fourteen hours; we could cut ours with a plastic fork. Well-seasoned pork ribs boasted a generous meat-fat ratio, and beef sausage came on slow but strong. The thick, snappy sauce is sweetened with molasses. Host and dining room were both cheery and inviting. JM
Rating: 4.25.
5535 Gessner Dr., 713-466-6525. Open Wed—Sat 11—6:30. Closed Sun—Tue. [Map]
HUNTSVILLE
New Zion Bar-B-Q
Be advised: Pre-bagged slices of white bread are waiting for you on the table already.
For some 29 years, holy smoke has wafted from ancient black pits in front of this rickety, low-slung hall next door to the New Zion Missionary Baptist Church. The provender that emerges from the glowing embers (mostly oak, with a little hickory and pecan mixed in) has funded congregational activities and created an East Texas legend. Was it just our imagination or were the ribs, brisket, chicken, and sausage even better than in the past? We said a little prayer of thanks. Then dug in. PS
Rating: 4.5.
2601 Montgomery Rd., 936-295-3445. Open Wed—Sat 11—6. Closed Sun—Tue. [Map]
JACKSONVILLE
Stacy’s
Building used to be: A house.
“I should have expanded twenty years ago,” said proprietor Ron Davis, though most people consider the cozy, brown-shingled cottage a plus, not a minus. Hickory smoke gave assertiveness to the usual suspects. We assembled in front of the short steam table to order, then headed to one of the small dining rooms, toting trays laden with meats, baked beans, corn on the cob, and two kinds of potato salad. PS
Rating: 4.
1217 S. Jackson, 903-586-1951. Open Tue—Sat 10—6. Closed Sun & Mon. [Map]
KERRVILLE
Buzzie’s Bar-B-Que
Be advised: Several years ago a man was arrested after breaking into Buzzie’s at four in the morning to fix himself a chopped-beef sandwich.
