The Top 50

Listed alphabetically by city.

June 2008

(Page 3 of 4)

KERRVILLE

Buzzie’s Bar-B-Que

Primary heat source: Wood.

Be advised: Several years ago a man was arrested after breaking into Buzzie’s at four in the morning to fix himself a chopped-beef sandwich.

This clean, bright establishment in downtown Kerrville didn’t look seasoned enough to produce a brisket that had much character. But from the first bite, we felt humbled to be in its presence. The meat was juicy and packed with oak flavor, and its marbled edges were as soft as warm butter. The homemade sides—including chunky mustard potato salad and crisp coleslaw laced with red cabbage—only enhanced the experience. PC

Rating: 4.5.
213 Schreiner, 830-257-4540. Open Tue—Sat 11—8, Sun 11—3. Closed Mon. [Map] buzziesbbq.com

KILGORE

Country Tavern

Primary heat source: Wood.

Celebrity customers have included: Robert Duvall, George H.W. Bush, and Larry Hagman.

The prettiest ribs in the region come steaming out of the Country Tavern’s enormously efficient kitchen, and the brisket’s good too. A dark-red sauce gives the hickory-smoked meats a sweet East Texas edge. The big, bustling place is like a cave tarted up with neon, but the waitresses have a girl-next-door quality, and the mood is family-friendly. PS

Rating: 4.5.
FM 2767 at Texas Hwy. 31, 903-984-9954. Open Mon—Thur 11—9, Fri & Sat 11—10. Closed Sun. [Map] countrytavern.com

KOUNTZE

Caroline’s Quality and Quantity Bar-B-Que

Primary heat source: Wood.

Complaint: Our stomachs weren’t bigger.

There’s no sign (Hurricane Rita blew it down), but smoke and smell help you find this small (three tables), immaculate, wood-frame building just off U.S. 69. The name is no joke. A three-meat plate held half a pound of lean, melt-in-your-mouth brisket, smoked thirteen hours over red oak in the iron pit; four intensely flavored pork ribs with a crunchy glaze; and four coarse, medium-spicy beef links made by pitmaster Arthur Yarbough (they hang for twenty hours in a closetlike smokehouse within the pit room). JM

Rating: 4.5.
320 Third, 409-246-8050. Open Thur—Sat 10—7. Closed Sun—Wed. [Map]

LAVON

Big Daddy’s Roadhouse BBQ

Primary heat source: Wood.

Building used to be: A Gulf station that is rumored to have sold bootleg whiskey out the back.

Big Daddy’s prides itself on being biker-friendly, but it’s really just friendly. The first time we visited (anonymously, of course) the server insisted on putting extra meat on our plates so that our party could try a bit of everything. We came away with a profound respect for the moist, tender brisket and fell in love with the hot links. Neither required a dab of the sweet-and-spicy sauce, but we would have been foolish to pass it up. BDS

Rating: 4.
1000 Texas Hwy. 78, 972-843-5200. Open daily 10:30—8:30. [Map] bigdaddysroadhousebbq.com

LEXINGTON

Snow’s BBQ

Primary heat source: Wood.

See Snow’s BBQ for the story.

LILLIAN

Casstevens Cash & Carry

Primary heat source: Wood.

Menu surprise: A daily bologna special.

Though several tables have been added since we last wrote about this obscure gem at a Diamond Shamrock station (there’s no sign outside to advertise the unbelievably good ’cue within), it’s still hard to snag a seat at Casstevens. The reason? Mesquite-smoked meats, including thick hunks of brisket that are generously rubbed with garlic, salt, and pepper before they’re left to blacken in the two huge pits for fifteen hours. JB

Rating: 4.5.
11025 E. FM 917, 817-790-2545. Open Mon–Sat 4:30 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 6–6 (barbecue served from about 10). [Map]

LLANO

Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que

Primary heat source: Wood.

Chain alert: According to recent reports, Cooper’s will soon open a franchise in New Braunfels and has two others in the works. The horror!

Our first pass through the Hill Country’s most renowned barbecue joint was utterly disappointing. The pork ribs were tough, the sausage was bland, and the fatty brisket was downright chewy. Even the sides were lackluster. Still, no one seemed to mind; the place was packed on a weekday afternoon, as locals, tourists, and bikers waited in line by the outdoor pit to pick out their own meats. Luckily we ordered some lean brisket before we headed home, and our faith was restored. The blackened exterior—generously seasoned with a peppery dry rub—encased a moist, juicy cut of beef bursting with mesquite flavor. It was the Platonic ideal of brisket. If only everything else hadn’t been such a letdown. Specialties include pork loin and goat ribs. PC

Rating: 4.
604 W. Young (Texas Hwy. 29), 325-247-5713. Open Sun—Thur 10:30—8, Fri & Sat 10:30—9. [Map]

LOCKHART

Kreuz Market

Primary heat source: Wood.

See Kreuz Market for the story.

LOCKHART

Smitty’s Market

Primary heat source: Wood.

See Smitty’s Market for the story.

LOS FRESNOS

Wild Blue B.B.Q.

Primary heat source: Gas or electricity.

Be advised: Pitmaster went to culinary school.

“Food is my life,” says young owner-pitmaster Abraham Avila, who fusses over every detail, from the brisket-seasoning rub (paprika, brown sugar, ancho chile, cumin, oregano, coriander, and kosher salt) and the satiny sweet-potato flan to the blend of apple and pecan woods in the smoker. But business is slow, as South Padre—bound tourists zoom by, hell-bent for bad tacos. Please, patronize Wild Blue before it’s too late. PS

Rating: 4.5.
31230 Texas Hwy. 100, 956-233-8185. Open Mon—Sat 11—9. Closed Sun. [Map]

LUBBOCK

Tom and Bingo’s Hickory Pit Bar-b-que

Primary heat source: Wood.

Notable decor: School desk—style dining tables.

For more than fifty years, this boxy luncheonette has turned out sliced- and chopped-beef sandwiches as good as you’ll ever eat, plus smoked-ham sandwiches and smoked burgers. That’s all, but that’s enough. The brisket, cooked for sixteen to eighteen hours in a well-worn brick pit, is lean and succulent, with a char that crunches slightly. Grill-warmed buns are brushed with a thinner, more red-peppery version of the mild house sauce. JM

Rating: 4.5.
3006 Thirty-fourth, 806-799-1514. Open Mon—Sat 11 till meat runs out (usually around 3 or 4). Closed Sun. [Map]

LULING

City Market

Primary heat source: Wood.

See City Market for the story.

LULING

Luling Bar-B-Q

Primary heat source: Wood.

Notable decor: Barn-red exterior paint job.

Locals were in cheerful abundance: law enforcement, men in blue jumpsuits, kids lingering by the cooler of sweet tea. One taste of the juicy mesquite- and-post-oak-smoked brisket and ribs and we understood why. The potato salad and coleslaw each set the gold standard, and the red sauce was so rich and smoky that one diner committed his entire ration of white bread to it. KR

Rating: 4.25.
709 E. Davis, 830-875-3848. Open Wed—Mon 7:30—8. Closed Sun—Tue. [Map]

MARLIN

Whup’s Boomerang Bar-B-Q

Primary heat source: Wood.

Restaurant is named for: Whup Washington, the owner’s dad.

No, this is not some newfangled, Aussie-inspired, Marlin-born culinary calamity. Have no fear, smoked kangaroo is not a featured menu item. “Boomerang,” in this instance, is meant to indicate that you’ll be so satisfied you’ll come back. Turns out there’s truth in advertising. Whup’s is tidy and small, but there is no indoor seating, so enjoy the mesquite-and-post-oak-smoked offerings at one of the three tables under the awning out front, or get it to go. DC

Rating: 4.25.
1203 Bennett, 254-883-5770. Open Thur—Sat 10—8. Closed Sun—Wed. [Map]

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