Lockhart: Smitty’s Market

June 2008

Manager and pitmaster John Fullilove, whose mother is the owner, has been working at Smitty’s since the day it opened.
Photograph by LeAnn Mueller

Fielden says: I can overwhelmingly concur with Larry’s assessment of the overall quality at Smitty’s and with the state of the Texas barbecue world in general. While Smitty’s is not at the top of my list, I confess that I enjoy sharing the experience of Central Texas barbecue with family and friends more here than at any other place. Smitty’s maintains old world, German meat-market humility, tradition, location, quality and consistency in a way the former namesake could have (wisely) done had it not chosen to erect a theme park on the outskirts of town. Even when they miss the mark (one they probably set themselves), the food is always delicious and satisfying. Turn of the century atmosphere and depression-era accoutrements help, as there’s more to this passion for barbecue than a meal. While there is better barbecue out there, all roads lead to Lockhart, the Rome of barbecue. Smitty’s is its Caesar, His Excellency the Emperor. All hail Caesar! (December 12th, 2010 at 1:09pm)

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Don’t bother going in the front door. You’ll end up in the parking lot behind the boxy brick building anyway, doing the Smitty’s shuffle: At peak hours, the lines invariably stretch out the back door. Patiently, you inch your way forward, passing the waist-high brick pits and perusing the list of post oak–smoked meats (brisket, pork ribs and chops, shoulder clod, sausage, prime rib).

Salivating, you finally place your order for a pound or so of meat (in this ancient hall there are no platters or sandwiches). You pay with cash or check (here there is no debit or credit). You proceed to the high-­ceilinged dining room, staring at the meats on your butcher paper (here there are no plates). Yet again you are made to stand in line, to order sides and drinks. At last, faint from hunger, you squeeze in at one of the long communal tables and tear into some of the finest barbecue in Texas.

Smitty’s began around 1900 as Kreuz Market, a German butcher shop that sold fresh meat during the week and smoked whatever was left over on the weekend. The Kreuz name endured even after Edgar “Smitty” Schmidt bought the business, in 1948. It was still in use in 1999, when a dust-up among the late Edgar’s three children caused his son Rick to take the Kreuz name to a new building down the road (see page 126). Fortunately, daughter Nina Schmidt Sells and her son, John Fullilove, kept the fires burning and reopened under the current name. They made a few concessions to modernity, such as repainting the dining room and offering sauce (you have to ask for it). Other than that, the place is still the proud bulwark of tradition it has always been. May it never change. Patricia Sharpe

Rating: 5.

Primary heat source: Wood.
208 S. Commerce, 512-398-9344. Open Mon–Fri 7–6, Sat 7–6:30, Sun 9–3. [Map] smittysmarket.com

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