Lockhart: Smitty’s Market

Manager and pitmaster John Fullilove, whose mother is the owner, has been working at Smitty’s since the day it opened.
Photograph by LeAnn Mueller

Larry says: My wife and I did a road trip from Snow’s, to Louie Mueller, to Southside, to Smitty’s, to Kreuz, and finally Blacks. Smitty’s was an arm and a leg above everyone else. It was almost like my wife and I took one bite of the brisket, and we both looked at each other was said with our eyes, "why did we waste our time going to all those other places?" Finally, a place that seasons their meat a little. Finally, a place where the smoke is bold enough without being overbearing. Finally, a place where the brisket can hold it’s form, not be dry, and still melt in your mouth. Not to mention, the emotional feeling of this place really added to the meal. The sausage was great too, though a little greasy. Good pepper flavor though, it didn’t fall apart when cut, and the meat actually had some texture to it instead of being mushy. I will say this: every BBQ place has a bad day. It’s possible that my bad experience at Kreuz was a fluke (I ranked Kreuz 5th out of the 6 places we went to). It’s possible the the dry brisket at Louie Mueller was caused by a fluke raise in the pit temperature that one day we went. But, nevertheless, Smitty’s is the only place that we went to that day, that makes me want to go back as soon as possible. (November 5th, 2009 at 9:06am)

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Don’t bother going in the front door. You’ll end up in the parking lot behind the boxy brick building anyway, doing the Smitty’s shuffle: At peak hours, the lines invariably stretch out the back door. Patiently, you inch your way forward, passing the waist-high brick pits and perusing the list of post oak–smoked meats (brisket, pork ribs and chops, shoulder clod, sausage, prime rib).

Salivating, you finally place your order for a pound or so of meat (in this ancient hall there are no platters or sandwiches). You pay with cash or check (here there is no debit or credit). You proceed to the high-­ceilinged dining room, staring at the meats on your butcher paper (here there are no plates). Yet again you are made to stand in line, to order sides and drinks. At last, faint from hunger, you squeeze in at one of the long communal tables and tear into some of the finest barbecue in Texas.

Smitty’s began around 1900 as Kreuz Market, a German butcher shop that sold fresh meat during the week and smoked whatever was left over on the weekend. The Kreuz name endured even after Edgar “Smitty” Schmidt bought the business, in 1948. It was still in use in 1999, when a dust-up among the late Edgar’s three children caused his son Rick to take the Kreuz name to a new building down the road (see page 126). Fortunately, daughter Nina Schmidt Sells and her son, John Fullilove, kept the fires burning and reopened under the current name. They made a few concessions to modernity, such as repainting the dining room and offering sauce (you have to ask for it). Other than that, the place is still the proud bulwark of tradition it has always been. May it never change. Patricia Sharpe

Rating: 5.
208 S. Commerce, 512-398-9344. Open Mon–Fri 7–6, Sat 7–6:30, Sun 9–3. [Map] smittysmarket.com