The 40 Best Small-Town Cafes
We sent 39 people on a five-month odyssey to find the finest purveyors of chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes, burgers and fries, onion rings, pork chops, cornbread, fresh doughnuts, and hot apple pie. After 24,000 miles, a flotilla of to-go containers, and a forest of toothpicks, the results are in.
Easy as Pie (December 2008) 
Comfort Food (December 2008) (Page 2 of 4)
Decatur | pop. 6,275
WHISTLE STOP CAFE
Of the seven clocks that hang in the Whistle Stop Cafe, only one is right. Its numerals have fallen from their posts and sit, jumbled, at the six o’clock mark, but its face reads, “Who cares!?!” Never was this common bit of cafe kitsch more accurate. As we hunched over our chicken-fried steak—a tender cutlet encased in battered goodness and crowned with snow-white gravy—time’s wingéd chariot ground to a halt. As we tucked into one of the richest pecan pies to ever touch the tines of a fork, the wheels fell off completely. Housed in a 1929 stone building next door to the equally historic Petrified Wood Gas Station, the Whistle Stop is run by a bevy of sassy waitresses who quit serving lunch at two. So don’t lose track of time until after you’ve placed your order. 904 S. Business U.S. 287, 940-627-7785. Open Mon—Fri 6 a.m.—2 p.m., Sat 7 a.m.—10:30 a.m. Closed Sun. JB
Edom | pop. 346
THE SHED
When you get wore out, as they say in East Texas, from shopping the quaint row of art galleries in downtown Edom, the forty-year-old Shed will rejuvenate you with a superthick, fluffy-crusted chicken-fried steak, sides of mashed potatoes and okra, and a stout slab of homemade pie, often featuring local fresh fruit. Expect to dine alongside an amiable mix of country folks and artsy types. The staff is extra-friendly, even by East Texas standards. Afterward, check the front porch vegetable stand, browse the gift store next door, or head back to the galleries. 8337 FM 279, 903-852-7791. Open 7 days 7 a.m.—8 p.m. AS
Eustace | pop. 931
SUE’S ROOST
Ask anyone where to get the best chicken-fried steak this side of Cedar Creek and they’ll send you to Sue’s, where you’ll find it hand-breaded, well-seasoned, and accompanied by fresh seasonal vegetables. Prepare for a rooster theme carried to the extreme; the birds cover everything—the walls, the counters, even the menus. Pies are baked at least twice a week; the pecan is fabulous. After pushing back from the fowl-print tablecloth, take your tea across the street and sit in the gazebo right on the tiny town square. 103 Edgar, 903-425-8008. Open Mon—Sat 7 a.m.—2 p.m. Closed Sun. AS
Fayetteville | pop. 276
JOE’S PLACE AT BACA’S SALOON
Located in what was, at various times, a confectionery, a doctor’s office, and a saloon, this charming hangout on Fayetteville’s historic square doles out a plate-size chicken-fried steak with a toasty crust and a peppery cream gravy. The fried sweet potato chips aren’t too sweet, and fresh green beans sautéed with bacon and onions remind us of Sunday supper at Grandma’s. Dishes named after locals—Lisa’s Big Salad, Lanny’s Slow Smoked Ribs, Todd Fritsch’s Cowhand Ribeye—confer a sense of community. But no matter where you’re from, you’ll enjoy genuine Southern hospitality. 120 N. Live Oak, 979-378-9035. Open 7 days 11 a.m. until late evening (call). BP
Freeport | pop. 12,557
ON THE RIVER
Not surprisingly, fried shrimp is the star at this joint immediately across from the docks, a favorite of fishermen, divers, and petrochemical plant workers. The chicken-fried steak, catfish, and burgers hold their own alongside what may be the best coleslaw in Texas. Fried dill pickles—sliced, lightly breaded—are an eye-opener, and the marvelous blackberry and peach cobblers provide culinary exclamation points. This place is the real deal. No skinny waitresses here, and natural hair color is conspicuous by its absence. 919 W. Second, 979-233-1352. Open Mon—Sat 11 a.m.—9 p.m., Sun 5 p.m.—9 p.m. SS
Goldthwaite | pop. 1,755
PEABODY’S
Housed in what was once a wool and mohair warehouse, Peabody’s is laid-back and family—friendly. Every Sunday, owner-cook Allen Knight serves up some of the tastiest chicken-fried steak in the state. The meat is peppered and pounded thin before being hand-dipped in batter. Can’t-miss choices at the daily buffet-style lunch and dinner are the fried catfish and smothered hamburger steak. Each dish is accompanied by an array of fresh vegetables and a choice of straight-from-the-oven rolls or jalapeño cornbread. Knight’s sister-in-law makes the prize-worthy pies from scratch; you’ve got to have the coconut cream. 1206 Fisher, 325-648-3708. Open Mon 6 a.m.—8 p.m., Wed & Thur 11—8, Fri & Sat 6—9, Sun 6—3. Closed Tue. ER
Hearne | pop. 4,611
JOHNNY REB’S DIXIE CAFE
We would like to use this space to apologize to our waitress, whom we startled with our unbridled enthusiasm. After two bites of the chicken and dumplings, we shouted, “This is amazing!” nearly causing her to drop a tray of iced teas. We then ordered the chicken-fried steak (hand-breaded), the mashed potatoes (lumpily perfect), and a cornbread muffin, and devoured it all. When she warily asked if we would care for some pecan pie, we thumped the table and hollered, “You kidding?” She hurried back with a slice, which, needless to say, we ate the heck out of. Customers: ethnically diverse; half regulars, half travelers. Decor: Confederate. 708 S. Market, 979-279-5171. Open Mon—Thur 10:30 a.m.—10 p.m., Fri—Sun 7—10. KV
Hico | pop. 1,339
KOFFEE KUP
You’re headed south on 281 and out of the corner of your eye you see an impossibly quaint limestone cafe labeled “Koffee Kup.” Screeech! Inside, kafe kitsch is king, inkluding a world-klass kollection of salt and pepper shakers. Handmade doughnuts appear at breakfast, and we could eat them all day long, except that sooner or later lunch rolls around, and we’re drawn to the spectacular jalapeño-and-cream-cheese burger on a homemade bun. The meringue pies, though famous, take a backseat to the apricot cobbler. Save a belt notch (or a whole new pair of pants) for a trip to Wiseman House, a gourmet chocolatier just across the street. U.S. 281 & Texas Hwy. 6, 254-796-4839. Open 7 days 6 a.m.—9 p.m. PS
Hutto | pop. 11,889
TEXAN CAFE
This friendly joint in Hutto’s old downtown has an inventive way with classic fare. Don’t be perplexed by fried pickles. They’re lightly battered and surprisingly delicious. Homemade onion rings have a spicy cornmeal crust, and the T’s in the BLT are fried and green. Sides are fresh and tasty, especially the palate-cleansing cucumber salad and the Grumpy Potatoes, which left us anything but. The hand-breaded chicken-fry is made-to-order. Baked on the premises every morning, the pies are unfussy yet creative. There were sixteen the day we visited, including a peanut butter variety that makes Reese’s seem like kid stuff. Don’t miss the Pie Happy Hour, an institution that we imagine has caused a marked decline in late-afternoon productivity in the Hutto metro area. 207 East, 512-846-2885. Open Tue—Sat 11 a.m.—8:30 p.m., Sun 11—3. Closed Mon. JS
Italy | pop. 2,121
UPTOWN CAFE
Forget MySpace. In the tiny town of Italy (pronounced “It-lee”), the Uptown Cafe is the social hub. Our waitress (and the owner’s daughter) pulled up a chair, and suddenly we found ourselves chatting away. It helped that she was toting an excellent burger: thick charbroiled meat served with juicy tomato slices, pickles, and lettuce on a buttered and griddle-warmed bun. Homemade fries are a dying breed, but not at the Uptown, where they come spicy, beer-battered, fresh-cut, or classic. Newspaper articles about locals and celebrities alike line a wall of fame, according to which no less an expert on down-home cooking than Denver Pyle (Uncle Jesse from The Dukes of Hazzard) once sampled the fare at Uptown. Alas, Sorrell Booke (Boss Hogg) was never so lucky. 129 W. Main, 972-483-9506. Open Mon—Sat 10 a.m.—2 p.m. Closed Sun. IK
Johnson City | pop. 1,528
HILL COUNTRY CUPBOARD
We hate to say it, but the hand-breaded fried pork chop at the Hill Country Cupboard knocked the gravy off the chicken-fried steak. For that matter, the sides—tender black-eyed peas and home-style potatoes with onions from the griddle—almost outshone the main courses, and frankly, the dinner may have been eclipsed by the contents of the (count ’em) two dessert cases. Basically, every bite was better than the last. We recommend the scrumptious homemade doughnuts and the gooey cherry pie with a fall-apart-in-your-mouth crust. If sweets won’t satisfy, there’s a bar in the back (or combine the two vices with a locally made tequila sucker). Menus glued onto paper sacks and a troll doll collection give the requisite quirky touches. Junction of U.S. 281 and U.S. 290, 830-868-4625. Open 7 days 7 a.m.—9 p.m. M. Giller
Junction | pop. 2,576
ISAACKS
Mosey down the entry hall, crammed with trophy mounts and a knife case, to get to the great food and friendly waitresses, most of whom have worked at the restaurant for decades and one of whom bought the place two years back. The clientele ranges from tattooed cowboys chomping on homemade onion rings to ladies sharing patty melts. A local from nearby Roosevelt recommended the chicken-fry, and boy, was she right: tender meat, wrapped in a crust with the perfect grease quotient, finished with thick white gravy. The grilled pork chops and peppery mashed potatoes brought us to new heights, and by the time we were slurping coffee from Isaacks-embossed mugs and savoring a few pieces of pie, we were in heaven. Or someplace like it. 1606 Main, 325-446-2629. Open Mon—Thur 6 a.m.—9 p.m., Fri & Sat 6—10, Sun 6—2. M. Giller
My Library
Lana Martin says: Brothers Bakery in Marble Falls is a delightful hometown eatery, with hints of big-town taste. The soups are to-die-for, and the sandwiches on freshly-baked bread are some of the best around. For dessert, the pastries remind me of some of the best European delights I’ve had in France or Italy. A definite must-stop on Hwy. 281! (January 28th, 2010 at 1:46pm)
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