On the Cheap 
How to Eat Well in Hard Times
It’s easy, really. Just go get yourself some shrimp tacos, a beef-and-cheese cachapa, grilled pork with green papaya, fried chicken, gourmet Frito pie, or any of the 25 finds on this list of my favorite dishes in Texas under ten bucks.
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Smoked Chicken Tostadas
Barnaby’s Café, Houston
$9
I’m usually willing to ignore the precious interior design of Barnaby’s in pursuit of the exquisite (and exquisitely filling) smoked-chicken tostadas. They start out simple enough, their bright-yellow chalupa shells slathered with refried black beans. This foundation is followed by diced tomatoes and shredded lettuce—nothing unusual about that. Then, however, there comes a mountain of seriously smoky chicken and dollops of sour cream and guacamole, followed by the final glory, a dash of Parmesan cheese and a kalamata olive. Initially, I bridled at the Italian garnishes. But as the salty, cheesy, sour flavors burst in my mouth, I remembered how much Mexican and Mediterranean cuisines have in common. It’s a crosscultural train wreck, and I love it. 1701 S. Shepherd Dr., 713-520-5131. Open Mon 11—10, Tue—Thur 7 a.m.—10 p.m., Fri 7—11, Sat 8—11, Sun 8—10.
Lamb Shank, Grilled Eggplant Salad, and Hummus
Fadi’s, Houston
$8.99
Aside from three shimmering bead chandeliers, few accessories identify Fadi’s as a Lebanese restaurant. It’s so generic-looking, in fact, that the first time I came here I was stunned by the richness and depth of the dishes in the buffet line. Three stand out: The lamb shank is sweet and tender at the bone; the grilled slice of eggplant encases a filling of its own savory flesh plus pimiento, mushrooms, and feta—deep, dusky flavors all; and the pleasantly grainy hummus boasts a bright spritzing of lemon juice (I like to have them drizzle the hummus with olive oil too). Put these three on a plate and don’t look back. 4738 Beechnut, 713-666-4644. Open Mon—Sat 11—9, Sun 11—8:30.
Sweetwater Duck With Sides and Jalapeño-Cheese Bread
Goode Company Barbecue, Houston
$9.95
Lightly smoked, tender, and surprisingly greaseless once you pull away the fatty skin, the half duck at Jim Goode’s barbecue empire is a revelation. Protein for protein, it’s one of the best and tastiest bargains in Houston. It’s even worth putting up with the cattle-drive feeling at the original, knickknack-crammed Kirby Drive location. The counterman will hack (and I do mean hack) your duck into manageable pieces. I always start out eating the meaty morsels with a knife and fork, but soon enough I abandon etiquette and rip in with my fingers and teeth. It’s good to be a cavewoman. 5109 Kirby Dr., 713-522-2530. Open 7 days 11—10.
The “Large Meal”
Yo Mama’s Soul Food Restaurant, Houston
$7.95
“The Feast of the Lord Is Going On” proclaims a sign on the pale lavender walls of Yo Mama’s. The cafeteria line, tended by two motherly ladies, dishes up a short list of soul food hits (the “large meal” gets you meat and three sides). Since I’m a meat loaf hound, I like the cafe’s just-firm-enough, well-seasoned version (it benefits from a few shots of the Cajun Chef hot sauce from the bountiful array of condiments on the table). From the lineup of vegetables, I prefer the sweet boiled cabbage (cooked until it begs for mercy, the Southern way); the utterly captivating homemade mac and cheese; and the falling-to-pieces candied yams, fragrant with nutmeg. When my tray is full, and I do mean full, I sit down at a community table with the rest of the faithful. I believe the Lord would approve. 5332 Antoine Dr., 713-680-8002. Open Mon 11—6, Tue—Fri 11—9, Sat noon—9, Sun noon—6.
SAN ANTONIO
Chalupa Burger
Big’z Burger Joint, San Antonio
$6.50
You want fusion cuisine, try this: In San Antonio the American hamburger mated with the Mexican chalupa and birthed a creation known as the bean burger. Then, at Big’z, created by renowned local chef Andrew Weissman, the offspring grew up. Here’s what you get: a toasted bun; a bright-red tostada shell; a layer of refried beans; a squish of melted cheddar; a splat of pico de gallo; an eight-ounce patty of Certified Angus beef; pickles, tomatoes, lettuce, and onion; and the top bun. I have to unhinge my jaw to get the thing in my mouth, but I’m always willing to give it a try. 2303 N. Loop 1604 West, 210-408-2029. Open Tue—Thur 11—8, Fri & Sat 11—9, Sun 11—8. Closed Mon.
Alaska Crepe
Cool Café, San Antonio
$8.95
Why do things taste so great stuffed in a crepe? At the Cool Café the French pancakes are hanky-thin, with lacy edges and seductive brown splotches from the pan. My favorite is the Alaska, which is packed with smoked salmon, red onion, capers, melted dill Havarti cheese, Dijon mustard, and a garden of beautifully sauteéd spinach. There are no sissy flavors here—the sharp, salty capers give the smoky salmon a run for its money, while the red onion has a tingling bite. I get it with the soft, hashbrowns-style potatoes to help mop up the bits of cheese and spinach that inevitably squeeze out onto the plate. Of Cool Café’s two locations, I really like the one on the north side, with its zany murals and hookahs (don’t worry: the smokes are legal and consumed outside). 12651 Vance Jackson Rd., 210-877-5001. Open Mon—Thur 10—11, Fri 10—midnight, Sat 9—midnight, Sun 9—11.
Tomato Duet Pizza
Rome’s Pizza, San Antonio
$6.50
Pizza may be the most perfect budget food ever to walk the earth, and when I think of my favorite cheap pies in Texas, the Tomato Duet immediately springs to mind. Winey sun-dried tomatoes supply the base notes; fresh tomato slices chime in at a higher register. Rounding out the tomato fest are dollops of melty feta and mozzarella, a scattering of fresh basil leaves, and liberal sprinkles of dried oregano. A blizzard of sesame seeds supplies crunch; a quick drizzle of olive oil binds the flavors together. At eight inches in diameter, the individual size makes a nice vegetarian meal. 300 W. Bitters Rd., 210-490-0700. Open Mon—Sat 11—10, Sun 11:30—9.
Shrimp Tacos
Rosario’s, San Antonio
$7.98
Here’s an insider’s tip: Shrimp tacos aren’t listed on the menu, but you can order them—and you should, because they are absolutely seductive. Served two to an order, these tacos begin with tender, piping-hot corn tortillas, made to order. To each tortilla, a generous swipe of sweet-hot chipotle mayo is applied, followed by mounds of sharp pickled red onion and tart lime-marinated cabbage slaw. Ribbons of queso fresco come next, followed by cubes of fresh avocado, then the pièce de résistance: a sextet of perfectly grilled medium-sized shrimp, heady with garlic. Your gaze falls upon them, and suddenly nothing in the world matters but you and the night and the tacos—Rosario’s big, boisterous dining room disappears. Try to stifle those moans. 910 S. Alamo, 210-223-1806. Open Mon—Thur 11—10, Fri & Sat 11—11, Sun 11—9.
Reggie’s Weekend Special
Torres Taco Haven, San Antonio
$6.75
That server groaning under the weight of a massive tray, the one who is staggering toward your table? He’s delivering Reggie’s Weekend Special, a platter laden with barbacoa, two eggs cooked however you want them, a pair of quesadillas packed with melted white cheese, a big ladle of refried beans, and a mound of chunky potatoes. I begin by making a barbacoa taco with one of the hot, freshly made corn tortillas in the basket already on the table, plus some of Torres’s tomato-chile salsa and a dollop of beans. Then I pick up a quesadilla in the other hand and go for it, alternating bites of taco and quesadilla—it’s crazy, like talking on two phones at the same time. Afterward, a nap is usually in order. (And by the way, don’t worry if you can’t get there on the weekend; they sell Reggie’s every day.) 1032 S. Presa, 210-533-2171. Open Mon—Sat 6:30—4, Sun 7—4.
Banh Xeo (Vietnamese Crepes)
Vietnam, San Antonio
$7 lunch $8 dinner
At few places in San Antonio are the rice-flour-and-coconut-milk delicacies known as bahn xeo done as well as they are at this odd little ex-house with fifties-era American wallpaper. Thicker than French crepes, thinner than pancakes, they come two to an order—a generous pair of toasted golden crescents with dark-brown, filigreed edges (a dash of turmeric in the batter imparts the yellow hue). If you unfold one, you will see how the crispy exterior gives way to a soft interior cradling thin slices of well-seasoned pork plus a handful of small shrimp and bean sprouts. Most Americans tackle them with a fork, but the best way is to roll them up in lettuce leaves. Tuck in a few sprigs of mint and basil too and savor the contrast of cool against hot and crunchy against lush. 3244 Broadway, 210-822-7461. Open 7 days 11—9:30.
Watch a slideshow of delectable dishes.
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