New and Noteworthy

Fabi + Rosi European Kitchen, Austin and Tintos Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar, Houston.

by Patricia Sharpe

November 2009

Fabi + Rosi European Kitchen
Photograph by Andrew Lo

Back Talk

    Peter Keim says: My wife and I have been to Fabi + Rosi several times. Each time, we have thoroughly enjoyed the evening. Great food, friendly staff and a beautiful quiet space. (October 21st, 2009 at 6:26pm)

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Fabi + Rosi European Kitchen

Austin All traces of Zoot have disappeared under the natty black and white florals and stripes of Fabi + Rosi. Votive candles appear to float in midair over the banquettes, making the remodeled West Austin cottage an airy showroom for chef/co-owner Wolfgang Murber’s European menu. Best starters on our recent visit were a classic, semisweet chicken liver pâté and a salad of wild arugula and fabulous “Overnight Tomatoes” (herb-marinated and treated to a long, flavor-intensifying stay in the oven). Though a special of pan-seared snapper, sided by a good, slightly tart slaw of fennel and lemon, was great, it was the rare medallions of leg of lamb in a port demi that got the table’s top vote, though we nixed the accompanying dryish, heavy potato soufflé. Even so, pluses so far outweighed minuses and prices were so reasonable that we’re eager to return. Beer & wine. 509 Hearn (512-236-0642). Dinner Mon—Thur 6—10, Fri & Sat 6—11. Closed Sun. $$—$$$ W+

Tintos Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar

Houston Inner Loopers can settle in for a nice nosh at this fine new tapas and wine bar in the River Oaks Shopping Center. A glass-walled dining room and shady garden make a pleasant backdrop for sharing plates of caracoles andaluces (snails, artichokes, sun-dried tomatoes, and goat cheese, Andalusian-style), shrimp cooked in white wine—garlic sauce, and roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese and spinach. Wash it all down with a reasonably priced tempranillo-grenache blend. Check the Web site for special events like flamenco guitarists or Saturday wine tastings. Beer & wine. 2015 West Gray (713-522-1330). Open Sun—Wed 11—10, Thur—Sat 11—midnight. Reservations recommended weekends. $$ W+

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