Oversized French art posters on the wall? Check. Burgundy-and-faded-saffron color scheme? Check. Servers in long aprons? Check. Austin’s Capitol Brasserie has been around only two months, but it already has that unmistakable French brasserie look and feel. And the food I’ve tried at restaurateur Reed Clemons’s new place has been très bon. Rainbow trout amandine came gilded with brown butter and all but shingled in slivered almonds. The quiche (mushroom-and-leek the day I had it) was tasty and satisfying, if plagued by a near-impregnable crust. Executive chef Andy Sasser’s menu showcases all the classics: steak frites, croque monsieur, a very fine coq au vin, and more. A final bonus: The place is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and into the wee hours. Now if only those waiters would work on their French accents and stop being so darn friendly …
