Jaden’s formula for success involves equal parts style and sustenance. Totally of the moment, this new Dallas restaurant sports the obligatory slick fifties motifs set off by exposed ductwork and oversized hanging lamp shades. Some nice original art—like the sinuous copper-wire-and-stainless-steel sculpture near the entrance—adds to the equation. As for the food, I like the eclectic experimentation of chef James Pitzer’s menu; it reminds me of the Green Room, where he was a sous chef. Case in point: If you’re not in the mood for the hedonistic beef short ribs in a sprightly stout-based broth jazzed with lemon and thyme, try the tender, Indian-inspired grilled lamb loin dusted with turmeric. Some things need attention, like the runny and oddly seasoned sumac-flavored raita that came with the lamb. But on balance, Pitzer juggles the familiar and the exotic with aplomb.PATRICIA SHARPE
