“Brunch isn’t just eggs Benedict anymore,” says Matthew Antonvich, chef-owner of Dallas’ Sipango (4513 Travis), as he whips up a batch of frothy scrambled egg whites studded with morsels of pink smoked salmon and handsomely accessorized with oven-roasted potatoes and caramelized onions. “Five years ago,” says Antonovich, “nobody would have touched this. Now everybody says, ‘Hey—a healthy egg dish!’ ” The creation and others in the same vein make up Sipango’s trademark Cal-Ital menu, a combination of lush Italian cooking and slinky California spa cuisine. This hearty hybrid blends the best of both styles.

Scrambled Egg Whites With Smoked Salmon

12 eggs, whites only
2 tablespoons fresh herb mix (basil, oregano, and tarragon,) finely chopped
2 tablespoons light vegetable oil
4 Roma tomatoes, seeded and diced (1-inch squares)
4 ounces smoked salmon, thinly cut into 4 2-ounce slices, for garnish
1 bunch fresh chives, finely chopped
chive flowers, if available for garnish

Whisk together egg whites and fresh herbs in mixing bowl. Warm vegetable oil in omelet pan, add egg whites, tomatoes, and strips of salmon and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until eggs set.

Put eggs on large dinner plate and lay slices of salmon over them. Arrange roasted potatoes (see recipe below) on same plate and sprinkle all with chopped chives. Tie knots in stems of chive flowers and use to decorate.

Roasted Potatoes with Onions

3 ounces olive oil
1 pound Bermuda onions, peeled and sliced into matchstick strips
1 pound yellow onions, peeled and sliced into matchstick strips
2 ounces red wine vinegar
16 very small red-skinned potatoes (approximately 2 pounds)
4 ounces olive oil
4 ounces light vegetable oil
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped
3 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon garlic, finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Heat olive oil in thick-bottomed saute pan, add onions, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until onions are soft. Then raise heat and brown slowly. Add vinegar and reduce until dry.

Cut potatoes in half and toss with olive oil, vegetable oil, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Place all ingredients on thick cookie sheet and roast for 20 minutes, until potatoes are fully cooked and well browned.

Add onions to potatoes and roast for about 5 more minutes. Remove from oven and drain excess oil. Add chopped garlic and mix well. Serves 4