At Joey’s (4217 Oak Lawn) in Dallas, the concept of cheesecake has undergone a paradigm shift: Restaurateur Joey Vallone’s version is (1) not sweet and (2) not a dessert.

To create this savory variation on a theme, chef Michael Wahl blends cream cheese with mascarpone, then folds in jumbo shrimp and glorious chunks of lobster and crab. He could stop there and have a fantastic dish, but he serves it with a buttery wine-and-pesto sauce studded with seafood. Nibble a slice of this cheesecake and you won’t even think about dessert.

Try this recipe for Shrimp, Lobster, and Crab Cheesecake from Joey’s, Dallas.