They’ve got lots of meat options at Willie’s, and the longer we stood in the cafeteria line, the easier it was to convince myself to order them all. Well, I didn’t quite get them all, but I do admire that Willie’s will sell you any amount of any meat without any needless sides.

First up were a few slices of fatty brisket that was a few hours shy of being done. The chewy slices were held firmly together with loads of unrendered fat, but the flavor was decent. A much better option was the excellent fajita meat. The smoky meat was cooked quickly enough to retain the juices and sliced properly to make for some good, tender slices.

Next was a giant beef short rib that was well smoked. The fat was rendered throughout, and the meat tore apart easily. If only they’d added a little seasoning it would have been great, but I couldn’t detect even a trace of salt or pepper.

Given the seasoning restraint on the beef ribs, I was surprised to find the sticky sweet finish on the pork ribs. They had a great crust and good smoke, but just needed more time to finish cooking. With a little more seasoning, and a little more patience with the smoker, this could be a real smoked meat destination in South Texas.

(This review originally appeared on Full Custom Gospel BBQ.)