“I leased Cooper’s, kind of, overnight. I didn’t have much practice other than cooking for events. I called Tommy Cooper’s son, Barry Cooper, and said, ‘Hey, guess what? I leased Cooper’s.’ He said, ‘You’ve got to be kidding. What in the world for?’ Then I said, ‘Would you please come down and help me for two or three days?’ Well, I brought him in and a couple of other friends of mine, and when they left, I said, ‘What have I got myself into?’ You know, it’s a little different cooking in your backyard than it is cooking for the public. I was cooking one day, and my meat started turning black. I couldn’t figure out what in the world was wrong. So, I tasted the seasoning. And this Spanish boy that worked for me had mixed sugar and pepper. You learn by the hard way.”
—Terry Wootan, owner (From Republic of Barbecue: Stories Beyond the Brisket, a UT/SFA oral history project. Read more»)
Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que
Llano, TX 78643
Hours: Open Sun–Thur 10:30–7:30, Fri & Sat 10:30–8:30.
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Texas Monthly rating: 4.00
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: The barbecue here has that distinct flavor found only in meat cooked long and slow (just ask President Bush; this is one of his favorite restaurants). Ordering is simple: Walk up to the pit and point to what you want (they have it all), then continue to the cafeteria-style line for traditional sides and a soda or sweetened iced tea. Proceed to an outside table to watch the action around the pit, or sit inside at a long table to be closer to the self-serve beans, pickles, and onions.
2008: The horror! Our first pass through the Hill Country’s most renowned barbecue joint was utterly disappointing. The pork ribs were tough, the sausage was bland, and the fatty brisket was downright chewy. Even the sides were lackluster. Still, no one seemed to mind; the place was packed on a weekday afternoon, as locals, tourists, and bikers waited in line by the outdoor pit to pick out their own meats. Luckily we ordered some lean brisket before we headed home, and our faith was restored. The blackened exterior—generously seasoned with a peppery dry rub—encased a moist, juicy cut of beef bursting with mesquite flavor. It was the Platonic ideal of brisket. If only everything else hadn’t been such a letdown. Specialties include pork loin and goat ribs.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2010: When I set out for the day I had plans of an all-out gorge fest, but once I hit Llano, I was four joints deep on the day and could only muster a measly order of brisket and a pork rib. I just couldn’t bring myself to spring for the $15 or so it would take for just a few bites of the Big Chop, but I ended up with quality over quantity. I’ve had my issues with oversalted and undersmoked meats at this and other Cooper’s locations in the past, but the original was on their game for this visit. The best item of the day was new for me at Cooper’s—a giant beef rib with a nice bark and meat that easily pulled from the bone.
2006: Deer hunters come here in herds to order directly from the big pits just outside the front door. The meat all looked great, so we ordered goat ribs, pork ribs, and brisket. The goat ribs were so thin that they really just tasted like salt and pepper. The pork ribs had the same salt and pepper rub but almost no smoke flavor, and the brisket had a nice crust and smoke line, but again, it was lacking smoke flavor. All the flavor seemed to come from the salt and pepper rub—and it just needed more.
