Goode Co. Texas Bar-B-Q
Houston, TX 77098
Hours: Open 7 days 11–10.
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Texas Monthly rating: 3.50
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: 2012: What started in 1977 with one barnlike spot on Kirby has become a local institution, with several locations featuring barbecue as well
as seafood, burgers, and taquería fare. The original on Kirby boasts a shaded deck with long tables, perfect for getting to know your neighbors, and dependable brisket, ribs, links, and chicken with sturdy side dishes—all particularly good with a frosty longneck. We like the cheese bread for mopping-up operations, followed by a slab of the sinfully rich pecan pie. Beer.
2008: Every meat in the barbecue pantheon, plus duck.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2010: Duck on a barbecue menu? Yes, in addition to the traditional smoked meats, Goode Company also offers smoked duck, Czech sausage, and spicy sliced pork. These are items not often found on a barbecue menu in Texas, so I had to add them to my order of brisket and pork ribs. I began with the duck, which had a great flavor (oddly more like pork than duck), but much of the smoke was trapped in the plasticky skin, so the meat had little smoke. While the spicy pork was moist and tender, I was hoping for more punch—it lacked spice altogether and had little flavor. Brisket also lacked flavor and smoke. Not even a dunk in the sauce helped as it tasted more like a roasted tomato sauce than barbecue sauce. I moved on to the gem of the plate, coarsely-ground Czech sausage, which was smoky, boldly seasoned, and had visible chunks of fat interlaced with the well-spiced meat. Ribs were also good. They tasted like they’d been sitting for a while, but the heavy black-pepper rub helped bring them to life.
