Lamberts Downtown Barbecue
Austin, TX 78701
Hours: L Mon–Sat. D 7 days. B Sun.
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Texas Monthly rating: 4.25
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: 2012: No one would use the words “restrained” or “subtle” to describe Lamberts. "Exuberant" and "fantastically flavorful" are more like it. This sophisticated Texas roadhouse in a historic brick building hit on every cylinder last visit, from the opening course of beer-battered Florida rock shrimp (a crunchy, shareable snack with a tart cucumber-lime tartar sauce) to the grand finale of tender-crusted coconut custard pie topped with clouds of whipped cream (our table happily shared the so-called “individual” pie). In between we plowed into the brisket (rubbed with brown sugar and coffee and sided with crisp pickled vegetables) and a fat cold-smoked quail with a cheese enchilada riding shotgun. Bar.
2008: Can a place that cooks its meat in a gas-burning rotisserie make really great ’cue? Well, the brown-sugar-and-coffee-rubbed brisket was delicious, the maple-and-coriander-encrusted pork ribs were tender, the pulled pork was perfect, and the chorizo-ish jalapeño hot links were unforgettable. Sides and desserts were extraordinary. A jícama-and-carrot slaw, in particular, had plenty of cilantro and lime to cleanse the palate, and the hot blackberry fried pie prompted an “oh, my God.”
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2008: Detractors generally chalk up Lamberts as “fancy barbecue” and insist that it does not belong in the discussion of great Texas ’cue. The descriptions on their menu—“Maple & Coriander Crusted Natural Pork Ribs,” and “Homemade Jalapeno Hot Link”—do little to dissuade the first-time visitor. Fortunately, the bartender understood when I simply asked for brisket, pork ribs (they do offer beef ribs), and sausage.
A thin line of fat hugged the bottom of each thick slice of brisket. The black crust held a deep smokiness that permeated the meat and the fat. I initially peeled some fat off before my first bite, which I rescued later after realizing just how good each previous bite was. The only negative I could find was a slight toughness to the meat, which could just be chalked up to a consequence of the thick slices. The sweet rub on the ribs was incredible. It wasn’t cloying, but it married well with the smoke flavor. Each rib had a deep red color with well-rendered fat and excellent flavor. The jalapeño sausage is house-made and features a bold pepper flavor. Three sauces are offered in mild, hot, and mustard, but save it for your bread . . . this meat needs no adornment.
