The Smokehouse
San Antonio, TX 78210
Hours: Open Tue–Sat 11–7, Sun noon–6.
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Texas Monthly rating: 4.00
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: 2008: We like eating our barbecue in the no-frills dining room just to enjoy the activity at the nearby counter (much of the business is carry-out). Of course, the fork-tender brisket, pork ribs, chicken, and plump, zesty sausage—and whatever else is coming off the pit—contribute to the cheerful atmosphere. Make sure to sample the slaw and the sweet potato pie.
2008: This modest spot with vinyl tablecloths and a TV mounted on the wall is brought to life by the old players handling the forty-foot indoor pit. We encountered laborers, families, and professional types all enjoying crunchy-on-the-outside, flavorful-and-moist-on-the-inside 24-hour brisket along with juicy pork ribs and not-too-greasy sausage, all smoked over mesquite. The homemade sauce (with a touch of honey?) is mighty fine.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2010: As I pondered my order, a surly pitmaster noticed my FCGBBQ T-shirt and made some smart comments about me spying on his joint to get some tips for mine. He didn’t know I was there to review it, so it was great to talk with him afterward to tell him how good it was.
Brisket was cut from the fatty end, and there was plenty of fat left on the slices. The bark was well formed, and the heavy salt rub, combined with 24 hours in an all-mesquite-fired smoker, created a brittle and dry crust (coupled with the moist meat, it made for a great combination). The pork came from the shoulders and had well-rendered fat throughout the slice and a great bark. The overall flavor was so good that it’s got to be some of the best pork shoulder I’ve eaten. Meaty spare ribs had a great bark but could have been smoked a bit longer to get the meat more tender. The rub, if any, was light and allowed the flavor of the pork and smoke to shine through.
When the meal was over, I gave the pitmaster my card, and let him know how well I liked it. He laughed and just welcomed us to come back for some more great smoked meat. I think I’ll take him up on that repeat visit.
