Baker’s Ribs
Dallas, TX 75226
Hours: Open Mon-Thur 11am-7pm, Fri & Sat 11-9. Closed Sun.
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Texas Monthly rating: 4.25
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: 2011: Funky, funky decor and the absence of table service never keep us from our main goal: good food. Relying on our eyes rather than common sense, we ordered up a three-meat combo plate, and we weren’t hungry again until the next morning. Two succulent pork ribs, a generous serving of chopped beef, and spicy (very) sausage links made up the main portion of this meal, while sides of pintos (over which we poured a little barbecue sauce for extra zest) and tomatoes marinated with garlic and herbs took us over the top. The homemade peach fried pies are the best of all the desserts.
2008: Good sign number one: the smell. Good sign number two: Cops eat here. Good sign number three: The countermen want to talk about their food. The brisket was outrageous, with a thick black crust, a ragged red layer, and a juicy core that pulled apart easily (it’s cooked fifteen hours over mesquite). The chicken was moist, and the pulled pork was smokier than the greasy ribs. Bottles of the thin sauce (with a little kick) are kept in warming trays.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2009: Each slice of tender brisket boasted a big smoke ring and a great crust. Ribs, which sometimes can have an off flavor from long storage, were fresh with a slightly sweet rub.
As for the sides, potato salad comes with bits of celery and dill for a creamy texture with added punch, and the green beans are clean tasting with little seasoning.
2008: We expected the ribs to be the standout given the name, but they had been stored in plastic wrap for a while, which resulted in a soggy crust. Both the fatty and lean briskets had a beautiful ebony crust and an impressive smoke ring. The smoke penetrated the entire slice, and the flavor from the salt rub was just right. If we were judging on brisket alone, this place would rank near the top, but those ribs brought it down a notch.
