Photograph by Daniel Vaughn
Country Tavern
Kilgore, TX 75662
Hours: L & D Mon–Sat.
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Texas Monthly rating: 4.50
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: 2013: We half expected Hank Williams to show up, the honky tonk aura was so strong at this famous spot outside town on liquor store row. At the urging of our friendly server, we ordered a combo of ribs and brisket with a side of baked potato casserole and the obligatory mayo-infused coleslaw. We found the ribs to be nicely spiced, if a bit on the greasy side, but the brisket was tender and laudably smoky. Bar.
2008: The prettiest ribs in the region come steaming out of the Country Tavern’s enormously efficient kitchen, and the brisket’s good too. A dark-red sauce gives the hickory-smoked meats a sweet East Texas edge. The big, bustling place is like a cave tarted up with neon, but the waitresses have a girl-next-door quality, and the mood is family-friendly.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2009: Lights are turned way down in this joint that feels more like a bar with the prominent pool table, juke box on the back wall, and tight jean–clad waitresses. It didn’t take long to decide that I’d order up a plate of ribs and sliced brisket.
Ribs made these folks famous, and in true East Texas style they were served wet with a sticky sweet sauce. The incredibly tender meat was moist, almost mushy, and lacked smoky flavor. The basting didn’t allow a solid crust to form, and the flavor of the sauce was about all there was to it. Anyone favoring the Memphis style would enjoy these baby backs, but they weren’t a good example of smoky Texas ’cue.
The brisket was better. These lean slices of beef were tender if a bit dry with a good smoke line beneath the well-formed crust. Classic beans and slaw proved good companions.
