Scholl Bros. Bar-B-Que
Paris, TX 75460
Hours: Open Mon–Thur 11–8, Fri & Sat 11–9. Closed Sun.
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Texas Monthly rating: 4.00
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS:
2008: Be advised: Diabetics may want to tread lightly.
When we asked a resident Parisian to impress us, he whisked us away to Scholl Bros. The ribs are prepared in the region’s signature style, using a sweet mustard rub, in a pecan-fed gas smoker. The thirteen-hour brisket wasn’t as good, but the sauce, a concoction flavored with brown sugar, gave the beef a much-needed boost. If your sweet tooth hasn’t fallen out by the end of the meal, invest in a local favorite, Ann Mann’s apple fried pie.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2008: This joint came with high praise, so I drove about two hours to give it a try. The sheet-metal-and-wood exterior along with the faded sign reeked of potential, but talk about disappointment. The ribs were nearly devoid of flavor and were just warm with chunks of unrendered fat. The sausage tasted straight from the grocery store, and the brisket didn’t come in to save the day. The meat was tender but lacked smoke and a robust crust—a passable version of roast beef at best. The mediocrity carried over into the straight-from-the-tub potato salad, the lukewarm macaroni and cheese, and the banana pudding that had no bananas, just fake banana flavoring. The two hours of unsatisfied driving back home just made it worse.
