Casstevens Cash & Carry
Lillian, TX 76061
Hours: Open Mon–Sat 5:30 a.m.–8 p.m., Sun 7 a.m.–8 p.m.
Share:
Texas Monthly rating: 4.50
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: 2008: Menu surprise: A daily bologna special.
Though several tables have been added since we last wrote about this obscure gem at a Diamond Shamrock station (there’s no sign outside to advertise the unbelievably good ’cue within), it’s still hard to snag a seat at Casstevens. The reason? Mesquite-smoked meats, including thick hunks of brisket that are generously rubbed with garlic, salt, and pepper before they’re left to blacken in the two huge pits for fifteen hours.
2008: Though several tables have been added since we last wrote about this obscure gem at a Diamond Shamrock station (there’s no sign outside to advertise the unbelievably good ’cue within), it’s still hard to snag a seat at Casstevens. The reason? Mesquite-smoked meats, including thick hunks of brisket that are generously rubbed with garlic, salt, and pepper before they’re left to blacken in the two huge pits for fifteen hours.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2009: Friday is rib day, so on a Saturday morning, I was surprised to find ribs available. They were most definitely from the night before, and I got the last remaining half rack, which had a rich black crust. The meat had a deep smokiness evident in every bite, but after such long storage, the texture of this well-seasoned meat was a bit mealy.
Brisket was a mixture of sliced, pulled, and chunked portions of the meat. It had a great smoke ring beneath bits of thick black crust. The meat was tender and very moist from the well-rendered fat, and a robust smoky flavor was a welcome addition to the salty rub. The hot link wasn’t particularly notable, but it was a good peppery version with plenty of heat.
2007: Talk about a joint with an odd name, and to top it off, the counter here is tucked inside a Diamond Shamrock gas station. The sausage was nice and peppery with good snap and not too much fat. The brisket was forgettable with little crust or smoke flavor. The ribs, on the other hand, were the standout with a deep black crust that added a nice textural layer over the sweet, smoky, red flesh. I could hardly stop eating them.
