Franklin Barbecue
Austin, TX 78702
Hours: L Tue–Sun.
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TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: 2011: Smoke is wafting into the air again from the site of the former Ben's Longbranch. But the occupant of the revamped old building is a young'un, namely Aaron Franklin, who had quite an avid following at his barbecue trailer. Acolytes at this altar of 'cue start the vigil hours before the the door opens, and the Last Man Standing sign (sold out!) has reportedly appeared as early as 12:30. Happily, the move into cinder-block-and-mortar hasn't changed the meltingly moist brisket or the fluffy (yet crusty-edged) shreds of pulled pork. We can't attest to the pork ribs; they were gone by the time we reached the counter. A nice touch: Wife and partner Stacy Franklin sometimes comes around to offer a Mexican Coke while you wait. Beer.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2011: The music was blaring and my regard for the speed limit was waning. I’d just finished a hearty breakfast of brisket and brisket at Snow’s in Lexington, and I was racing time to get a spot in line at Franklin Barbecue on a Saturday morning. I’d heard from the Twitterverse that lines were still sane one hour before opening at 10 a.m., but I hadn’t factored in the start of another semester at UT. Hungry folks had already filled the entry ramp, and the line was slinking down the parking area to a spot beyond the building when I arrived at 10:15. I couldn’t count how many were in front of me, but when Aaron Franklin spotted me in line and came over to chat, he said that I didn’t want to know the truth about when I’d probably eat. A nice girl came through the line asking for orders, but she was only trying to estimate how long the food would last. At opening time there were probably seventy people behind me. Some of them would get the bad news that the meat wouldn’t hold out that long and had to leave. Just before noon I made it inside the door after watching a few disappointed carloads pull up to be met with the infamous “Sold Out” sign. They had not been informed of the dedication required to get a taste of this meat made famous all over the country by the likes of the New York Times, the San Francisco Gate, and Bon Appétit.
2010: A line had already formed fifteen minutes before opening on Sunday morning, but thankfully it moved quickly. Just watching the brisket being cut here is like having a preview bite. Lucky for me I got a real live taste—and it was glorious. The fat at the end of the thick slice had melted into the peppery rub to create an airy, juicy, salty flavor bomb of a bite. Every bite thereafter was perfectly smoky and silky tender, with plenty of rendered fat to keep things well lubed.
