Baby Back Shak
Dallas, TX 75215
Hours: Open Mon–Thur 11–5:45, Fri & Sat 11–6:45. Closed Sun.
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Texas Monthly rating: 3.50
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: Owner Clarence Cohens is from Memphis, where, apparently, they have their own barbecue traditions.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2011: It’s called the Shak Platter—four meats and two sides for $14. And it just might be the best barbecue deal in town. Unlike the two- and three-meat platters where you can choose your meat, this plate comes with brisket, sausage, chicken, and those famous pork ribs. I can’t leave the Shak beans off my order, and boudin offered as a side is hard to pass up as well.
What amazes me about this place is just how good the ribs are and just how bad the brisket is. The sliced beef is downright tough with ribbons of chewy fat. There isn’t even a speck of smoky flavor to redeem this beef, which honestly lacks any flavor but salt. I don’t expect greatness from the beef in a place that bills itself a Memphis barbecue joint, but they could do better. However, I’m not certain how they could improve on the ribs that I had on this visit. Talk about tender. These spare ribs (more manageable in size than the giant offerings you find elsewhere) are perfectly seasoned with a decent smoky kick, and the moist rib meat comes easily from the bone with just a tug. We were so smitten we almost forgot about the brisket.
