Cooper’s Pit Bar-B-Q
Mason, TX 76856
Hours: Open Mon–Fri 9–5:30, Sat & Sun 9–6.
Share:
Texas Monthly rating: 3.50
TEXAS MONTHLY SAYS: When we compiled our last list, in 2003, the Cooper’s in Mason was in our top five. (The more famous Cooper’s, in Llano, is operated independently.) Sadly, it has now fallen out of our top fifty. Each piece of barbecue we sampled—from the brisket to the pork ribs to the cabrito—was very dry, and this was before the lunch rush. Slightly redeeming the overcooked meats was a deep, complex mesquite flavor.
BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2008: I had heard that this joint’s quality was suffering, so I stopped by to check things out. Business was slow, and the pits were unattended when I pulled up. Once the carver ambled over, I ordered pork and beef ribs as well as sliced brisket. The brisket was sliced with the grain rather than against it, so the dried out slices were very tough. I ended up slicing them into chewable strips in order to enjoy the salty rub and deep smoky flavor. The large spare ribs were also a bit dry but still had great flavor. The beef ribs were the best item—incredibly thick with excellent flavor and well-rendered fat throughout.
2006: This joint is in what looks like a converted gas station. The giant black pits are sitting out front, and ordering is done with your index finger—some of that, a few of those—and it’s all placed on a plastic cafeteria tray. No plate. No butcher paper. The pork ribs were a bit dry but the fat was well rendered, the flavor was good, and the smoke flavor was fair. The brisket had an intensely smoky crust that was almost crispy and a good salt-and-pepper rub. The meat was moist, tender, and even the fat was good. This was some of the best brisket I’ve had, and I’ll drive all the way back to Mason to get some more.
