Big Boys Barbecue
Sweetwater, TX
Hours: Open Tue–Sat 11–8. Closed Sun & Mon.
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BBQ SNOB SAYS: 2011: It was getting near closing time and the place was pretty empty on a Saturday night. I chatted with owner and pitmaster Gaylan Marth while my order was being put together, and he made no qualms about sharing his cooking method. “It’s not smoked,” he explained. The meat had been cooked directly over mesquite coals as is the practice at Cooper’s, Hard 8, and Schoepf’s. Gaylan uses whole briskets that are around eight or nine pounds so that they cook a little quicker under his 275-degree fire. On this day, I was seeking some of that brisket along with the ribs and beans. Dessert wasn’t in my plans, but they generously offered to give me a large serving of banana pudding gratis after they returned with a huge pan of it from a catering gig.
St. Louis cut ribs had more than a subtle glaze. This one was pretty thick, with black pepper and possibly honey, and proved to be the dominant flavor on the perfectly cooked ribs. I’m used to seeing brisket sliced very thick at direct-heat joints because of the tenderness, but this brisket was sliced at the flat end and sliced thin, falling apart completely after handling. The sweet black pepper rub proved a good complement.
