Texas Wine Month Courtesy of Go Texan Wine

Though it hardly feels like it outside, Fall is officially upon us. For most people, that means football, autumn foliage and closed-toe shoes. For me it means, Texas Wine Month is here! And there’s no better way to enjoy Texas wine than on a few select road trips along the Texas Wine Trails, signing up for a few Texas wine pairing dinners, or stopping by for a few of the seasons wine and food festivals across the state. With something going in virtually all parts of the state, there’s really no excuse not to find a fantastic way to enjoy Texas wine this month. Here are a few choice events to check out. (more…)

Through recent years of watching celebrity chefs like Mario Batali and Giada De Laurentiis magically unveil classic Italian dishes on television screens, many have been convinced the dish is as easy as 1, 2, 3 (eggs, flour, water). But the chefs and cooks who have mastered it know better; the truth is, pasta is utterly deceiving.

Nevertheless, a new food trailer has deemed itself up to the culinary challenge. Regal Ravioli, a vibrant yellow trailer, has parked its wheels in East Austin and invited all ravioli lovers to come out and chew. Speaking to those who are awaiting cooler temperatures to brave outdoor dining, the blackboard outside wants a word with you: “No, it’s not too hot for pasta.”

Behind the trailer’s small, sliding window stands Zach Adams. Adams spent over a decade with The Neighborhood Restaurant Group in Washington, D.C., opening an eclectic mix of restaurants, and also has a film degree from American University. Two years ago, he migrated to Austin, hoping to undertake a new direction. He spent those two years working as a bartender at Corazon at Castle Hill, studying the techniques and styles of local food trailers in his spare time. Within a year, he found an open niche and began developing the menu and concept of his trailer.

Tagged: austin, East Austin, Gnocchi, Layne Lynch, Pasta, Ravioli, Regal Ravioli, Trailer Thursday

Goats! [Photos courtesy Blue Heron Farm.]

FIELD STORE—“Miranda’s a big eater, unlike her namesake,” Lisa Seger joked as she pointed out a brown goat with a white forehead nibbling some grass.

That goat, of course, is named after Miranda Lambert, the tiny blonde country starlet featured on the October 2011 cover of TEXAS MONTHLY. Many of the “girls” at Blue Heron Farm are named after country singers, a nod to Christian Seger’s time working as a roadie for musicians including Pat Green and, yes, Miranda Lambert. There’s also Emmylou, LeAnne, Carrie Underwood, Lucinda and Elle Mae, to name a few.

If you had driven by the ten-acre farm during the week after Labor Day, you might have noticed some different goats milling around that lacked country music monikers. The Seger’s idyllic farm turned into something of a goat refugee camp after they took in some 90 animals from two nearby farms threatened by the Waller County wildfires.

The tiny, unincorporated community of Field Store is home to three goat dairies, and the farmers are all close friends. When the evacuation order was called on September 5, the farmers from Fairwoods and Swede farms called Christian at the same time to see if they could bring their goats over.

“Our farm is surrounded by pasture that has been very heavily grazed,” Christian said. “There’s nothing to burn, so we figured the farm would be safe.”

A herd of 25 Nubian goats, known for their floppy ears and sweet milk, typically call Blue Heron Farm their home. The refugees from Fairwoods and Swede farms were a motley group of breeds, including Lamanchas, Alpines, Saanens and a lone Toggenburg. (more…)

Tagged: blue heron farm, chevre, fairwoods farm, fieldstore fire chevre, goat dairies, goats, sustainable farming, swede farm, waller county, wildfires

The Texas Craft Brewers Festival is back! Well, it was back and now it’s gone. Don’t worry, you can always catch it next year. It happened this past Saturday, September 24th at Fiesta Gardens in Austin–the first time the festival had been put on since 2005. There have been other craft beer festivals held around the state since then, but this is the “original” put on by the Texas Craft Brewers Guild.

18 Texas brewers were in attendance, with 75+ beers (including many rare and special beers). All the old school Texas craft brewers were there, like Shiner, Saint Arnold, Independence, Rahr & Sons, and Live Oak. They were mixed in with the fresh young bucks of Texas brewing such as (512) Brewing, Circle, Southern Star, No Label and Ranger Creek.

VIP ticket holders were allowed to enter at noon, while general admission was at 2pm. Early on I was worried the heat would keep festival goers away (I don’t think I was the only one with that thought). By 4pm, that idea seemed ridiculous. Beer and food lines started stacking up, bands were playing and smiles were broadening.

Twisted X, a new brewery out of Cedar Park, seemed to be wildly popular, with one of the longest lines of the afternoon, which never seemed to shorten. New Republic and No Label are also new breweries, but unlike Twisted X, their beers are not available in Austin, so attendees made the best of this opportunity.

A few standout beers:

Jester King Das Wunderkind! – funky and tart (My favorite beer of the day)

Thirsty Planet Smittlefest – a hoppy, yet malty (balanced!) Oktoberfest/Märzen style lager

Twisted X Señor Viejo – a tequila laced dark lager, heavy for such a hot day, but something I definitely want to try again

Real Ale Empire -  IPA aged in oak wine barrels for 7 months – winey, hoppy

New Republic Skylight Dunkelweiss – a classic example of a wonderful style; wish we had this in Austin

Austin Beerworks Battle Axe- an imperial red ale showcasing aggressive hops (more…)

Tagged: (512) Brewing, Antonelli's Cheese Shop, austin, Austin Beerworks, Beer, Circle, Independence, Jester King, Live Oak, New Republic, No Label, Rahr & Sons, Ranger Creek, Real Ale, Saint Arnold, Shiner, Southern Star, Texas Craft Brewers Guild, Thirsty Planet, Twisted X

Photo via Melange Creperie’s Facebook Page.

On a recent Monday, Sean Carroll was slinging crepes at Melange Creperie outside Mango’s Cafe in the Montrose. Eight patrons were lined up in front of me, all of them trying to choose between the week’s offerings scrawled on a chalkboard hung at the front of the stand. Carroll, known as Buffalo Sean, was wearing a straw hat to guard against the Houston sun. The line moved quickly, as Carroll seems to have perfected the art of efficient crepe making since opening Melange Creperie 1.5 years ago.

The crepes tend towards the inventive, with some trusty staples—ham and cheese, Nutella banana—thrown in. I resisted the call of Nutella, and opted for one of the week’s savory specials, the Makua Yow crepe. I happily devoured this delightful Thai basil eggplant creation topped with garlic chili sauce, though I did find myself wishing for more salt.

The selections vary each week, depending on what’s available at the farmer’s market. “We try to be local, as long as the price point is there, and we definitely try to be seasonal,” Carroll said, adding that the Makua Yow crepe came about because basil was the only thing left in his garden.

Carroll, a 31-year-old native of Buffalo, New York (hence the nickname) moved to Houston 13 years ago to go to U of H and never left. During the downturn, he lost three jobs—at an art gallery, a website and a museum—in quick succession and decided he needed to strike out on his own. (more…)

Tagged: Crepes, Houston, Melange Creperie, Trailer Thursday

Salt Lick Cellars Sangiovese Reserve, 2009

Sangiovese, one of Italy’s great wine grapes. If you’ve dined at any run of the mill Italian joint, you’ve probably encountered it in some form or fashion as it is used to make Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the blends popularized by the American market as “Super Tuscans,” just to name a few. The grape itself has more than 15 clones found throughout Italy, all with different names, so it may be hard to identify off the bat, but it you familiarize yourself with the Italian regions, you’ll soon see Sangiovese is, well, all over the place.

When it’s young, the wines tend to be a little light with hints of bright fruit, strawberry and a little spice. When aged in oak for a while, they can grow in depth and complexity.

But perhaps more importantly, Sangiovese does really well in Texas.

This month’s Texas Wine of the Month selection comes with the help of sommelier Richard Arnold, of Houston’s La Colombe d’Or. Originally an Austin native, Arnold nurtured a growing passion for wine while managing wine lists in Colorado restaurants Potager and Larkspur as well as notable Texas locales such as Del Frisco’s, Vic & Anthony, and Pappas Brothers. He was also one of the first to help open Spanish-inspired Malaga in Austin with Jay Knepp and Jennifer Robin, both of whom are now with the wine program at the Salt Lick Cellars in Driftwood.

That’s right, as in Salt Lick Barbecue. If you haven’t been out for the legendary, family-style barbecue classic in a while, you may want to make the trek. You’ll soon notice that vineyards surround the entire property.

In recent years the Salt Lick has planted warm-climate grapes that seem to love the Texas heat including Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Sangiovese and Syrah. They’ve also made relationships in the High Plains to bolster their grape inventory. Though currently in small production, the Salt Lick has slowly begun releasing wines under their own label with the help of noted Texas winemakers including Ed Auler of Fall Creek Vineyards (Tempranillo), Dave Reilly of Duchman Family Vineyards (Texas Hill Country Red and Barbecue Red), and Kim McPherson of McPherson Cellars (Sangiovese Reserve). (more…)

Tagged: Dave Reilly, Duchman Family Vineyards, Ed Auler, Fall Creek Vineyards, Jay Knepp, Jennifer Robin, Jessica Dupuy, Kim McPherson, La Colombe D'Or, McPherson Cellars, Richard Arnold, Salt Lick barbecue, Salt Lick Cellars, Salt Lick Cellars Sangiovese Reserve 2009, Scott Roberts

A bright red sign outlined in neon lights screams CHICKEN as you approach Ms P’s Electric Cock, a large silver trailer on a quieter part of South Congress Avenue. As you may have guessed from the attention-getting name, Ms P’s is not a place for subtlety. It is, however, a place for really good fried chicken. Or should I say fried CHICKEN!

Owner Perry Ray (a.k.a. Ms P) was inspired to open the trailer because she didn’t feel there was a place in Austin focused on putting out great fried chicken and southern comfort side dishes. Growing up in Tahoka, TX, Ray learned how to make fried chicken from her great grandmother, who she called “Big Mama.” (Awesome-sounding nicknames appear to run in the family).

Ray says her great grandmother “was a self-taught cook and a baker and was really good at both. Since I could stand on a stool to reach the cabinets she was teaching me how to cook.”

Big Mama made her fried chicken in a cast-iron skillet, but to make larger quantities to order, Ray had to learn how to make it taste just as good in a fryer. She developed a two-step brining process and amped up the spice level of the original recipe.

I stopped by Ms P’s on a Friday night to sample the goods. Funky music blasted from the trailer’s window. Official t-shirts featured a proud rooster sporting a hip pompadour and radiating electric sparks. Slogan on the back of the t-shirt: Good Cluck’n Chicken.

The chicken earned its star billing. Juicy meat was encased in a crispy coating that tasted just-the-right-amount of spicy. A three-piece platter was served with soft rolls and topped with big fresh jalapenos that just about dared you to bite into them. The fries, called Farm Frites, had an extra jolt of flavor from an unexpected sprinkling of thyme. (more…)

Tagged: austin, chicken, Corn, Food Trailers. Food Trucks, Fried Chicken, Ms P's Electric Cock, Trailer Thursday, Waffles

Inspired by the beginning of fall (or, at the very least, football season), and the ever-so-slightly cooler air that seems to be hinting that the end of summer is nigh, I turned on the oven for the first time in months this week. For good measure, I brought out my cast iron skillet and my pressure cooker to make a meal that reminds me of Saturdays growing up. It’s a meal that’s full of family tradition, and one that I like to add my own little spin to: jalapeños.

My grandmother made a pot of beans almost every Saturday for as long as the family can remember; the tradition continues even though she’s not at the helm of the kitchen. Pinto beans, cooked in the pressure cooker, seasoned so simply with a little bit of salt pork and served with a side of sweet cornbread. Pretty standard, right? Except here’s where I divulge a family secret, one that may have you raising your eyebrows, but trust me when I say that you have to try this. All of us—my parents, my cousins, my aunts and uncles, the neighbors who stopped by, and eventually our spouses—top the bowl of beans with spoonfuls of dill relish.

My husband tried it one Saturday. After the first bite, he had concocted a plan to cook beans and cornbread for his family so they could try it too. Now all our fridges are stocked with a jar of dill relish, in the event that we have pinto beans for dinner.

When it comes to the accompanying cornbread, I like it to be both sweet and spicy—so here’s how I’d recommend making it to go with that simple pot of beans this weekend.

Sweet Jalapeño Cheddar Cornbread
2 cups stone-ground cornmeal
1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 cups milk plus 2 tablespoons vinegar (or 2 cups buttermilk)
1 egg
2 tablespoons honey
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 jalapeños, seeded and minced
3/4 cup shredded cheddar cheese (optional)
3 tablespoons butter, lard, or vegetable oil (more…)

Tagged: beans, Cast iron, cheddar, corn bread, jalapeno, Lisa Fain, Mark Bittman, salt pork

Tailgate season is upon us. Since a Texan can never have too many recipes for queso and cheese dip, herewith are three magnificently gooey ones from three great new Texas cookbooks published this fall.

Fort Worth chef Lou Lambert’s Big Ranch, Big City, cowritten with collaborator June Naylor ($40, Ten Speed Press), is an outgrowth of Lambert’s cooking classes, catering, and two eponymous restaurants, in Austin and Fort Worth. Lambert calls his style “elevated ranch cuisine”; another way to describe it is refined but full of gusto and big flavors. (Lambert and Naylor will be doing book signings and some Central Market cooking classes this fall: Sept 15, A Real Book Store, Dallas; Sept 19, Central Market Fort Worth; Sept 20, Central Market Dallas; Sept 21, Central Market, Austin; Sept 22, Central Market Houston; Sept 23, Central Market San Antonio; Oct 1, Texas Fall Fest, Horseshoe Bay; Oct 13, Market Street, Colleyville; Oct 22, Texas Book Festival, cooking tent, Austin; Oct 29, Fresh, Tyler.) Photograph, left, by Ralph Laurer; used by permission.

Seventh-generation-Texan Lisa Fain blogs from her home in New York City under the moniker “the Homesick Texan,” and her sassy, popular website, which centers on how much she misses Texas, especially Texas foods, has now given rise to The Homesick Texan Cookbook ($29.99, Hyperion). (Fain will do book signings on Sept 22, Cookbook Gala, San Angelo; Oct 20, Le Crueset on Lovers Ln, Dallas; Oct 22, Texas Book Festival, at the Capitol, Austin; Oct 24, BookPeople, Austin; Oct 25, Twig Book Shop, San Antonio; Oct 26, Blue Willow Bookshop, Houston.)

Journalist Ellen Sweets had the fortune to be a great friend and cooking chum of the late liberal columnist Molly Ivins. Stirring It Up with Molly Ivins: A Memoir With Recipes ($29.95, University of Texas Press) focuses on personal stories and anecdotes but still has plenty of recipes, fancy and plain. (Sweets will do book signings on Oct 23, Texas Book Festival, at the Capitol, Austin; Nov 4, BookPeople, Austin; Nov 13, Savory Spice Shop, Austin.) (more…)

Tagged: Big Ranch Big City, Cookbooks, Ellen Sweets, Homesick Texan, june naylor, Lisa Fain, Lou Lambert, Molly Ivins, Queso

(The famous Perini Ranch mesquite-smoked peppered beef tenderloin. Photo by Pat Sharpe)

Editor’s Note: This guest post is by longtime Texan Jim Shahin, now a resident of Washington, D.C…. and “craving Central Texas barbecue almost every minute of every day,” he says. The “Smoke Signals” columnist for the Washingon Post, Shahin was also a contributor to our 1997 barbecue Top 50.

Ten years ago this month, Tom Perini arrived in Washington D.C., from his ranch in Buffalo Gap, Texas, proud to be catering the annual Congressional Picnic at the White House.

The event was a huge deal for the Texas cowboy who started his career in 1973 as a chuck wagon cook for hungry ranch hands. In 1983, he had opened Perini Ranch Steakhouse, which developed a reputation for excellence far beyond Buffalo Gap, a town of about 400 outside Abilene. Academy Award-winner Robert Duvall had found his way to the remote restaurant, as had Billy Bob Thornton, who told Men’s Journal that Perini’s smoked brisket was the best he ever ate.

Perini’s culinary fame eventually reached the Texas governor’s mansion, where he regularly catered barbecues for George W. Bush. “When he ran for president, I remember fantasizing about cooking at the White House,” recalls Perini.

In May 2001, he got his chance when President Bush asked Perini to cater the 2001 Congressional Picnic in the fall. The gala would be a Texas-themed, and Texas-sized, party that would feature country music’s Ray Benson and Asleep at the Wheel.

In June, Perini arrived in Washington to work out details with White House chefs. “I told them we were going to have bread pudding, green chile hominy, Southern green beans and beef tenderloin,” Perini, 68, recalls. “And the chef from the White House said, ‘You’re in Washington, and you have to cook chicken.’ I said, ‘I’m sorry, but I’m not serving chicken.’

“The room got real quiet. ‘When you are serving a Texas chuck wagon meal, you serve beef.’ I said, ‘If you want another meat, I’ll do catfish.’”

After some discussion, and a later conversation with the president himself, the entrees were set: mesquite-smoked peppered tenderloin and fried catfish. (more…)

Tagged: 9/11, bbq, Beef Tenderloin, buffalo gap, Catfish, Congress, George W. Bush, September 11, tom perini