
Gold Medal Award Winning Texas Wines
The festive blur of the Austin Food & Wine Festival has come to a close and among the many things learned over the weekend including how to incorporate chocolate into savory dishes from Austin Chef David Bull of Congress, how to build a fire and grill a steak from Fort Worth Chef Tim Love of the Woodshed and Lonesome Dove Bistro, and how salt and tequila are the ultimate cocktail marriage, one of the clear lessons of the weekend came from a panel of wine professionals who all proclaimed that Texas was wine was not only great, but here to stay.
A thirsty line of festival attendees clamored into the wind rustled tent mid-Sunday morning to taste six Texas wines, all of which have been Gold Medal winners in national wine competitions. Presenting them was a panel of Texas wine professionals including:
Dr. Russell Kane, wine writer of VintageTexas.com, The Wineslinger Chronicles,
Devon Broglie, Master Sommelier of Whole Foods Market,
Craig Collins, Master Sommelier of Dalla Terra Winery Direct
June Rodil, Advanced Sommelier of Congress Austin
Ray Isle, Executive Wine Editor, Food & Wine magazine (and native Texan—by way of New York)
The panel discussed a diverse collection of wines not only for tasting great, but for being made from grapes that are “out of the box” for what the average wine consumer might recognize. Grapes that will define the great wines of Texas in years to come.
“There isn’t a Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot in this group,” said Kane. “That’s because Texas ain’t Bordeaux and it ain’t Burgundy.”
First up was the 2010 Vermentino from Duchman Family Winery ($14), a crisp white wine made from a coastal Italian grape varietal.
“The thing about this wine is it’s just freaking delicious,” said Broglie. “It’s fresh and floral with bright acidity.”
Isle, who was excited to join the panel as a fresh palate who hadn’t tasted a cross section of Texas wines in years, added “It’s crisp, it’s minerally. What’s amazing about this wine to me is that it could be a wine from coastal Italy.”
A nice pat on the back for Duchman Family Winery winemaker Dave Reilly, who has helped put Vermentino on the Texas wine map as one of Duchman’s signature wines. This crisp, dry wine is available at most major wine shops throughout Texas and the latest 2010 vintage is said to be the best representation of this grape the winery has put out to date.
Next up, the 2010 McPherson Cellars Roussanne Reserve ($18), a wine made by celebrated winemaker Kim McPherson, whose father, Clinton “Doc” McPherson is widely considered one of the fathers of Texas winemaking.
Roussanne (pronounced Roo-sahn) is more commonly used in the Rhone Valley France as a blending grape with Marsanne, another French white grape. But McPherson’s belief in this grape to be able to make a great wine on its own is evident in this particular selection.
“This is a great example of this wine with exotic and tropical fruit characteristics and a little green tea,” says Collins. “The acid on it is fantastic. It makes it refreshing and great to pair well with food.”
And at $18, “it will cost you less than a Hermitage-Blanc,” said Isle, who added, “I’m blown away, this is a really great Roussane.”
The third wine was a red, the 2009 Pedernales Cellars Tempranillo ($29), a grape that is rapidly earning a reputation as a star grape for Texas. Pedernales Cellars is one of the Texas wineries who is letting this grape do its best to reveal it’s identity in Texas soil.
“What I love about Tempranillo as a grape, it that it has a great concentration of flavor, but it’s not a full-bodied grape in the way Cabernet or Syrah can be,” said Isle. “This wine has a leathery note to it, with bright fruit, great acid, and a great long finish. It just keeps going. “I don’t think I’d mistake it for a Spanish Rioja because the balance is a little different, but it’s definitely expressive of a Texas Tempranillo, and that’s pretty cool.”
Kane moved on to a wine from a small little winery in Tyler: 2010 Kiepersol Estates Stainless (No Oak Syrah). Syrah is orignally a French grape used in the Rhone Valley and is known for its earthy, peppery, and almost meaty qualities. In more recent years, it has earned a reputation in Australia as a full-bodied, fruit forward wine that we know as Shiraz.
This particular wine has more of an Australian style, but as Kane described it, this Syrah is great for it’s “grip,” or tannin structure, but also for its beautiful dark fruit characters.
“I’d say this is definitely a food wine for what we do best in Texas: barbecue,” added Collins. “There’s black and green pepper with a stewed fruit component that is perfect for grilled or smoked meat, which is perfect for the style of cuisine that we do here.”
Rounding out the red wine selections was the 2009 Sandstone Cellars VII ($28). Based in the Mason area, this wine is made with 100 percent Touriga Nacional, a Portguese grape known for producing big, bold red wines as well as the classic after dinner digestif, Port.

Texas Wine Panel: Dr. Russell Kane, Ray Isle, June Rodil, Devon Broglie, Craig Collins
For Broglie, this is a wine that earned a spot in this particular panel discussion for its authenticity as a Texas wine.
“This maintains the example of pushing the envelope of using grape varieties that are really special for where we are and that show the terroir of Texas,” said Broglie. “I love it. It’s a big wine. It’s meaty and complex and dark. And it has a lot of tannin. But it’s really good.”
Finally, the tasting ended on a sweet note, with the 2008 Haak Vineyards Madeira ($40). Made from Blanc du Bois, a grape we have recently talked about as being special to Texas for its native establishment here. (Although originally believed to be from Florida, the grape made it’s way to Texas hundreds of years ago and seems to like the heat and inclimate weather conditions.
Rodil, a self-proclaimed sweet fanatic, not only has a taste for dessert, but for elegant dessert wines as well. And the Haak Madeira is one of her Texas favorites.
“Whenever I’m eating sweets, I usually want something a little sweet to balance it out,” says Rodil. “This wine is nutty, floral, and even a has a little bit of citrus to help lift it and make it not too heavy on your palate. It’s crisp with a little hint of vanilla bean from the oak it was aged in. It’s a lovely end to a tasting of wines that are from all over Texas that have true character to them.”
As the panel wrapped up its discussion, a few questions came from the audience. One in particular stirred a strong and unanimous response from the team of wine professionals: “For the price of some of the wines in Texas, is the quality of these wines where it should be?”

Texas Wine Panelist, June Rodil pouring wines at the Austin Food and Wine Festival
“They will be when you buy more,” said Rodil. “That’s all you have to do.”
Isle added, “Honestly, some of them are steal right now. $18 for a Roussanne of this quality is unbelievable.”
To sum up the overarching theme of the morning, Broglie put it like this. “It’s important that we talk about the price of these wines but what we all agree on as wine professionals is that these are damn good wines. Not just good for Texas, but damn good across the board. That’s what is most exciting about getting to talk about them in a setting like this.”
He went on to add that the importance of Texas grape selections shifting from Bordeaux, Burgundy and many California varietals to ones that work better in Texas soils is what is key for the state’s future success in winemaking.
“What has gotten us here, is not going to take us there,” said Broglie. “What has gotten us here in the Texas wine industry so far is the ability for people to really connect what they recognize like Cabernet, Merlot, and Chardonnay, but we’re moving past that and taking the risk with grapes like Touriga Nacional and Tempranillo and the other wines you see here today and that’s really exciting to see.”
- Jessica Dupuy