Ahem. If you’ll scroll down to the seventh picture, below, you’ll see that there are only two macarons on the plate. There were initially three macarons, but yours truly grabbed the third one and demolished it in one bite before realizing that I had not taken a picture. Damn! It looked so delicious that I lost my head. That sort of thing—wolfing down your food—will happen to you at the Pass, the newest restaurant from Houston chefs Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan. Everything is so pretty and clever—mesmerizing, in fact—that it all but begs you to devour it. Yes, you do have a brief “too pretty to eat” moment, but that only lasts about a millisecond. Then you attack it like a starving wolverine.

Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan

The Pass, which opened on Tuesday, November 27, is the second half of the oddly named duo, the Pass and Provisions. The first half, Provisions, opened in September, with a casual menu of pizzas, a “ham of the day,” artisanal breads baked in the wood-burning oven. The Pass, the fine-dining restaurant, took a little more time to get ready (they’re located side by side, in the same building). But judging by a five-course sampling yesterday, the wait was more than justified. And word is out. Almost all of the Pass’s 36 seats were booked up immediately for days ahead. If you want to go, plan ahead.

And throw conventional expectations right out the window. Nothing here is predictable. The menu is part of a highly eclectic and original vision of the two young chef-owners, and in my experience, there is really nothing like it in Texas. (Justin Yu’s Oxheart, also in Houston, is equally ambitious and personal, but different.)

TRUFFLES: Kaeshi Egg

My five-course odyssey started with “TRUFFLES: Kaeshi Egg.” Incidentally, the “descriptions” on the menu don’t give you much to go on, which is a trend at a lot of upscale restaurants these days, and I find it exceedingly annoying. Harumph.  Be that as it may, TKE looked like slices of mushroom covered, quite insanely, in some kind of frizzly packing material. That turned out to be shaved Burgundy truffle (a cousin to the black tuffle of Perigord). And underneath the nest was a perfectly poached egg lounging amid a world of Japanese mushrooms: skinny enokis, snowy white matsutakes, crisp maitakes. The egg had been cooked in an umami-rich dashi-based broth. The recommended eating procedure was to break the yolk and swish it around in the secret trove of squid-ink-and-mushroom purée at the bottom of the bowl. The flavor profile vaguely recalled a mushroom omelet from heaven. Honestly, I could eat this for breakfast every weekend.

RAW: Nori Bucatini / Tofu / Uni / Clams

My second dish, “RAW: Nori Bucatini/Tofu/Uni/Clams,” was a little easier to suss out, but the hidden details amazed me. The tofu—which had the texture of a yieldingly soft panna cotta—had been marinated in soy and dashi and cut into a little squared-off log. It was then wrapped up in the seaweed-enriched bucatini pasta. On the side were a gorgeous lump of velvety, coral-colored fresh uni, teeny nubbins of littleneck clams, and a swath of pristine raw hamachi, dressed lightly in a clam-and-citron vinaigrette. Oh, and fresh baby flowers. The whole thing was meant to be mixed up with the accompanying clouds of dashi-apple cider foam.

BREAD: French (onion soup) Toast / Onion Variations

Next came “BREAD: French (onion soup) Toast/Onion Variations.” Personally, I would have called it “ONION.” You want pickled onions? No problem. Onion jam? Sure thing.  How about a purée of onions? Definitely. There is even a crispy dehydrated onion slice stuck on top like a perky feather. And pulling the parts together were the two main elements: a slice of onion bread cooked up like French toast and a stunning caramelized-onion/black-garlic ice cream. Yes, it’s sweet. Yes, it works (black garlic is actually quite mild). Yes, you’ll be licking the plate.

VEGETABLES: Squash Cake / White Chocolate / Dippin’ Dots

Chefs Gallivan and Siegel-Gardner have a thing for mixing sweet and savory elements. This obsession came out in the next-to-last dish I tried. ‘’VEGETABLES: Squash Cake/White Chocolate/Dippin’ Dots” was a total send-up of that old favorite shopping mall ice cream treat,  Dippin’ Dots. Except that here the dots were made from sweetened dabs of vegetable purée (parsnip, celery root, beet, rutabaga, carrot, tarragon) flash-frozen in liquid nitrogen. Chefs love playing with this  stuff.  Underneath it all was the squash cake (think zucchini bread—it sounds better) on a layer of lovely orange curd.

CHEESE: Macarons

But my personal award in the category “most audacious impersonation of another foodstuff” went to “CHEESE: Macarons.” The three bite-sized nuggets looked for all the world like the sweet French meringue cookies that are all the rage these days, but instead they were savory-sweet trompe l’oeil creations filled with cheese. In the first one, a grain mustard macaron was spread with Wisconsin Rush Creek Reserve, a soft cow’s milk cheese that had spent time wrapped in spruce bark. The second was a port wine macaron paired with Grayson cheese, a cow’s milk cheese from Galax, Virginia, that’s often compared to taleggio. The third was a tiny “everything bagel”-flavored macaron paired with Gjetost, the familiar caramelized cream cheese that is popular in Norway. The flavors were decidedly sweet, and at the same time, distinctly, well, cheesy. Bravo!

The open kitchen as culinary stage.

When you eat at the Pass, you can buttonhole the two chefs and ask about anything you don’t understand, because they are not only supervising the kitchen but also serving the food (along with the others cooks and staff). Says Siegel-Gardner, “There is no barrier between the kitchen and the dining room. We have no secrets. You can see everything that we’re doing.” (The name of the place actually refers to the area between a restaurant’s kitchen and dining room, where food is placed to be garnished and inspected before being taken to the customer.)

A splash of color in a stark dining room.

So much is going on with the food that the Pass’s decor is deliberately streamlined, even severe. The walls are bare and white and the (extremely comfy) chairs are covered in slate-gray velvet. A furry little green plant graces each white-clad table, and overhead, industrial lights illuminate the space. The room looks into the open kitchen, like an auditorium facing a stage from a few short feet away. No secrets, indeed.  | The Pass, 807 Taft, Houston (713-628-9020). Dinner Tue-Sat. Prix fixe: five courses $75 ($120 with wine pairings), eight courses $95 ($160 with pairings). Reservations required. Passandprovisions.com

Turkey Day is upon us, and an abundance of families will be cooking fall-centric dishes at home tomorrow. In case you’re looking to scrounge up some last-minute Thanksgiving recipes, here are a few offerings from a handful of talented Texas chefs.

Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Absinthe Crème Fraîche from Jason Dodge of Péché 

For the soup:
½ medium-sized sugar pie pumpkin, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
2 shallots, peeled and quartered
3 cups chicken stock
¼ cup maple syrup
2 sprigs fresh thyme

In a large bowl toss pumpkin with thyme, salt and pepper, and shallots in olive oil until thoroughly coated. Place on a medium sheet tray. Roast at 400 degrees until slightly caramelized. Let cool before handling. Heat stock to a simmer and add pumpkin, shallots, and maple syrup. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste.

For the crème fraîche:
1 cup crème fraîche
½ cup Pernod Absinthe

Reduce absinthe by ½ cup in a small sauté pan over high heat. Fold into crème fraiche. In a serving bowl, ladle soup and spoon crème fraiche on top. Garnish with pumpernickel or Pecorino Romano croutons.

Maple Bread Pudding from John Bates, chef/owner of Noble Pig Sandwiches

“The reason I love bread pudding is because it reminds of the holidays. It is good in so many ways and reminds me of family,” Bates says.

Maple Bacon Bread Pudding
loaf day-old bread
6 cups half and half
1 cup sugar
1 cup maple syrup
¾ teaspoon breakfast sausage, cured
9 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1 ½ cups bacon, crumbled and crispy

Dice your bread. In a pot add half and half, sugar, maple syrup, and breakfast sausage. Bring the milk up to a simmer and allow the sugar to dissolve and infuse the flavors. In a mixing bowl, add whole eggs and egg yolks. Mix together the eggs and temper the hot milk into eggs. Pour hot custard base over the diced bread and bacon. Allow to soak for thirty minutes and then pack into mason jars. Put jars into a water bath and bake until set in a 350-degree oven. Approximately 45 minutes.

Apple Cheddar Pie from Janina O’Leary, executive pastry chef of TRACE

Cheddar-Cheese Tart shell
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cubed
3/4 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
3 tablespoons cold water

Crumble topping:
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

Apple Pie Filling:
6 cups cored, peeled, and thinly sliced crisp apples
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
3/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground allspice

Crust: In a large bowl or food processor  combine flour and salt. Add the butter and, using a pastry cutter, two knives, or your hands, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add grated cheese and toss. Add cold water, by the tablespoon, until a rough dough forms. Gather dough into a ball, flatten into 3/4-inch-thick disk, and tightly wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough into an 11-inch circle about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer dough to a 9-inch pie pan. Turn overhanging dough under itself to form an edge along the top of the pan, and crimp edges. Chill for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line the crust with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the crust is lightly browned — about 15 minutes.

Filling: Add cut apples to a large bowl and toss with lemon juice and zest. In a small bowl, mix sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and allspice. Sprinkle the spice mixture over the apples and toss to mix thoroughly. Spoon the apples into the prepared crust.

Crumble topping: In a small bowl using a fork, toss flour, brown sugar, butter, and grated cheddar cheese. Sprinkle the top of the pie with crumble mixture. Place pie in the middle of the oven and bake until the topping is golden brown — 50 to 60 minutes. Cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Sullivan’s Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict from Thomas Dritsas, corporate executive chef at Sullivan’s Steakhouse

“The Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict is a fun way to repurpose your leftover turkey into a uniquely delicious dish for the whole family to enjoy the next morning,” Dritsas says.

Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict
1 English muffin, split
2 ounces gravy
2-4 ounces turkey slices
2-4 ounces stuffing
2 cups water
1 teaspoon white vinegar
2 jumbo eggs (for poaching)
3 ounces cranberry sauce

Start by heating the turkey, stuffing, and gravy in a microwave until warm throughout. Split the English muffin, then toast and place on a warm plate or platter of choice. Divide stuffing with an ice cream scoop or large spoon and place on top of each side of the English muffin. Top stuffing with slices of reheated turkey and press down on stuffing to level out so the egg will sit on top of the turkey properly. Bring the water and vinegar to a simmer in a small saucepot. Crack 2 eggs, then drop into the simmering water and poach for 2-4 minutes depending on how you like your eggs done. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and drain well on a paper towel to remove liquid. Set one egg on top of the turkey that is on each side of the toasted English muffin. Ladle approximately 1 ounce of gravy over each poached egg. Spoon the cranberry sauce on the plate accompanying the Benedict. Serve immediately.

Braised Short Rib from Olivier Ciesielski, chef of  L’Olivier Restaurant & Bar

“This dish reminds me of my childhood in Burgundy, France. It’s a simple, very rustic dish that my mother used to cook. We ate a nice braised meal almost every week during autumn and the winter,” Ciesielski says.

Braised Short Rib
5 pounds boneless beef short ribs, cut crosswise into 2 inch pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium onions, chopped
5 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 whole tomatoes, crushed
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs rosemary
1 fresh or dried bay leaf
1 head of garlic, halved crosswise
3 ounces of red wine
5 cups beef stock (demi-glace)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season short ribs with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large heavy pan oven over medium-high heat. Working in two batches, brown short ribs on all sides, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer short ribs to a plate and reserve.

Add onions, carrots, and celery to pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until onions are caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add flour and tomatoes; cook, stirring constantly, until well combined and deep red, 2-3 minutes. Stir in wine, and then add short ribs with any accumulated juices. Bring to a boil, lower heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes. Add all herbs to pot along with garlic and beef stock.  Bring to a boil, cover, and transfer to oven.

Cook until short ribs are tender,  about 2–2 1/2 hours. Transfer short ribs to a platter. Strain sauce from pot into a measuring cup. Spoon fat from surface of sauce and discard; season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in plate with the potato tart with sauce spooned over.

Green Bean Bundles from Patrick Russell, chef of MAX’s Wine Dive Dallas

Green Bean Bundles
Yields 25-30 bundles
2 pounds fresh green beans
1 pound applewood-smoked bacon—thick cut is best
1 cup brown sugar
1 stick butter
1 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 orange
1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Clean green beans by clipping the tip and tails, and removing the string.  Bring salted water to a boil in a large pot. Once boiling, take the green beans and cook for 3 minutes; strain and shock in ice water to cool, repeat until all green beans are cooked. Strain green beans from ice water. In a new pot, boil butter and brown sugar; add soy sauce, garlic, and the juice of one orange and boil for 3-5 minutes more. Take the bacon and cut the strips in half. Wrap 5-7 green beans per each half, and place into a deep baking pan. Pour sauce over green beans, and let sit overnight. Bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes until bacon is rendered and crispy.

Turkey Gravy from Christina Lee, chef of Central Market Cooking School in Austin 

“I love this recipe because it is easy, tasty, and versatile. I use it to make turkey pot pies, turkey and dumplings, and baked turkey and rice casserole.  It’s also delicious on mashed potatoes,” Lee says.

Easy Turkey Gravy
yields 4 cups
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups hot turkey stock
1 tablespoon each of parsley, thyme, sage, and oregano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a medium pot, melt the butter and add the flour.  Whisk continuously until a blond roux has been achieved, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the hot turkey stock 1 cup at a time, whisking to incorporate into the roux. Add the herbs and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Butternut Squash Cheesecake from Michelle Antonishek, executive pastry chef of Bar Mirabeau

Antonishek says this dessert is extra special to her because she made it for husband, Bar Mirabeau’s Executive Chef Bill McGrory, the day Bill asked Michelle to marry him.

Crust
2 cups graham crackers
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup butter, melted

Mix all ingredients together and line cheesecake pan. Bake at 325 degrees for 10 minutes or until golden brown.

Cut two butternut squash in half and place on pan lined with water.  Bake until butternut squash is tender and soft. Scoop out the squash and place in a blender and puree until smooth.Hang in cheesecloth to drain the excess water and moisture.

Butternut Squash Cheesecake
1 pound cream cheese
4.5 ounces sugar
12 ounces squash puree
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1.5 teaspoons nutmeg
1/2 vanilla bean
1/4 teaspoon cloves
6 eggs

Cream the cream cheese, sugar, and spices until smooth on low speed. Add the squash and mix until smooth on slow speed. Add the eggs one at a time scraping after every other egg. Strain and bake in a water bath at 275 degrees until set. (Depending on size: large 10″ cheesecakes, approximately take 1-1.5 hrs.) Serve with whipped cream and candied pecans.

Roasted Green Chile Pecan Dressing from Joe Synatschk, executive chef of Central Market Fort Worth

“This dressing is spicy and crunchy, and pairs well with turkey or pork at Thanksgiving,” Synatschk says.

1 8×8 pan cornbread, crumbled
1 small loaf crusty bread, cubed
3 poblano or hatch chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
1-2 jalapeño peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 cup sweet corn kernels
3/4 cup pecan pieces, toasted
1/2 cup celery, diced
1/2 cup onion, diced
2-3 cups chicken stock
3 tablespoons butter
2 eggs
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
salt and black pepper, to taste.

Allow breads to sit and dry out a bit. Char jalapeños and poblanos. Allow to sit in a bowl covered with plastic for 5 minutes. Peel, seed, and chop peppers, reserving some jalapeño to adjust for spiciness to taste. In a large sauté pan, sweat onions and celery in butter until tender. Add corn and sauté until warmed through.

In a large bowl, combine crumbled corn bread, cubed bread, chile mixture (some reserved), onion mixture, pecans, and half the stock. Stir well to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Add more stock as needed for desired texture. Taste for spiciness, add more chiles as necessary. Stir in beaten eggs and cilantro and place in a large baking dish. Bake at 375 degrees for 30-40 minutes, until set and at an internal temp of 160.

Aji Ham from Rene Ortiz, executive chef of Sway and La Condesa

Whole roasted spiral cut ham from local butcher
Aji dijon glaze (recipe below)
canned pineapple rings
maraschino cherries
toothpicks

Aji Glaze
1 cup dijon mustard
2 cups local honey
1/2 cup Aji Amarillo paste (Peruvian yellow chili found at Mexican food markets)

Glaze method: Place ingredients into a pot and bring to a boil, reserve with a brush to glaze the ham.

Place the ham onto roasting rack. Add the decorative garnish with pineapple first, then the cherry, and stab them with toothpick. Heat the oven to 375 degrees and start the process of basing with the Aji glaze. While the ham is cooking, occasionally add some of the sweet glaze to it. Once the ham is up to temp and the glaze is starting to caramelize, the ham is ready to come out of the oven.

Apple Pie from Laura Sawicki, executive pastry chef of Sway and La Condesa

Pie dough
yields one double crust pie
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons sugar
8 ounces unsalted butter, diced
about 1/2 cup ice water

In a food processor, mix flour, salt, and sugar together. Pulse to evenly distribute. Add the cold, diced butter and pulse several times until the pieces are small and pea-like. Do not over mix! Pulse in the ice water a little at a time, adding up to 1/2 cup, if needed. Pulse until it just comes together. Turn onto a floured table and very gently knead the dough once or twice to bring all the flour together. Dough should be shaggy and loosely incorporated. Divide the dough into two pieces and form into a flattened round disk. Wrap dough and place in refrigerator overnight.

Filling:
7-8 apples
juice and zest of half a lemon
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
pinch of fresh grated nutmeg
2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
pinch of salt
2 teaspoons unsalted butter

Peel and slice the apples 1/4-inch thick. Toss the apples in a large bowl with all ingredients except the butter. Allow to macerate 5 minutes. When ready to assemble the pie, roll one piece of dough 12-14″ and place into the bottom of a pie tin. Trim the edges so there is a slight overhang. Place all the apples into the pie and dot the filling with butter. Roll remaining piece of dough slightly larger than the first. Fold in half and place over the filling. Unfold the dough to cover the pie completely. Gently tuck the edges of the dough into the pan, pulling the top dough over the bottom. Crimp the edges of the pie and place in the freezer about 30 minutes to firm up. The pie can remain frozen at this point.

Egg wash: Whisk together 1 egg, pinch of salt, and 1/2 teaspoon water

Brush the entire top of the pie with egg wash. Sprinkle liberally with sugar. Cut vent holes in the top of the pie in a decorative manner. This is crucial to allow steam to release. Bake at 400 degrees for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 350 degrees and continue to bake for at least one hour. If the pie is getting too dark, turn the oven down to 325 degrees or wrap the edges in aluminum foil. Allow the pie to cool completely before eating.

Tagged: Aji Ham, Apple Cheddar Pie, Apple Pie, austin, Bar Mirabeau, Central Market, Christina Lee, Eggs Benedict, green beans, Houston, Janina O’Leary, Jason Dodge, Joe Synatschk, L'Olivier, la condesa, Laura Sawicki, MAX's Wine Dive, Michelle Antonishek, Noble Pig, Olivier Ciesielski, peche, recipes, Rene Ortiz, Sullivan’s Steakhouse, Sway, texas, Thanksgiving, Thomas Dritsas, turkey gravy

Here’s another restaurant opening Austinites can add to their December dining list: East Side King, Paul Qui’s Asian-inspired street food concept, will open its newest location in the back building of Hole in the Wall on Tuesday, December 4.

Photo taken by Christian Remde.

This marks the fourth location of Qui’s East Side King as well as the very first brick-and-mortar location. According to the press release, the restaurant will feature beloved menu items from current and previous East Side King menus as well as a few new dishes.

“We’re all looking forward to the opening of East side King at Hole in the Wall,” Will Tanner, owner of Hole in the Wall, said in the press release. “For the first time in the history of Hole in the Wall, we are going to offer Japanese beers on tap, shochu, and sake to compliment the flavors found in East Side King’s cuisine. We want the collaboration to emphasize the importance of food with drinking in a fun atmosphere.”

“I hope that one day East Side King will be a lasting part of Austin’s culture, just like Hole in the Wall has been an Austin institution for decades,” Qui added.

East Side King is located at 2538 Guadalupe Street and will be open Monday – Friday, 11 a.m. – 12 a.m., and Saturday, 4 p.m. – 12 a.m. For more information, visit the East Side King website.

Tagged: East Side King, Hole in the Wall, Layne Lynch, Paul Qui, Will Tanner

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, we thought it fitting to suggest two wines that would not only pair well with your holiday turkey—be it roasted, smoked, fried or what have you—but also impress your guests with their authentically Texan flavor.

The November Texas Wines of the Month are: 

McPherson Cellars Viognier 2010 (About $14 at Spec’s, Twin Liquors, some Whole Foods and Central Markets, and at the winery.)

Fall Creek Vineyards “Salt Lick Vineyard” Tempranillo 2010 (About $30 at the winery only.)

Wineries:

Neither of these wineries are new to the world of Texas wine, in fact, the Auler Family of Fall Creek Vineyards and the McPherson family of McPherson Cellars  are some of the longest standing Texas wine families in the state. So it should come as no surprise that each of them have a selection this month from their portfolio.

We should also note that both of these wines have made the Texas Wine of the Month list with previous vintages, meaning that from year to year, these wineries have been able to build upon each vintage with these particular wines.

And it should come as no surprise that the grape varietal in both the red and white selections are the two of the leading grapes for Texas: Tempranillo and Viognier.

The Grapes:

Viognier—a grape that naturally has high toned, intense aromatics and moderate acidity, it does well in our sometimes difficult Texas growing climate. Most at home in the Northern Rhone valley, it is fantastic to see such classic examples of this variety grown here in Texas.

Tempranillo—one of the best grapes to grow in Texas Hill Country—it does well with dusty, higher temperature climates. Tempranillo is able to retain acidity and structure, while also developing a beautiful fruit profile.

Who Likes Them: David Keck, beverage director for Uchi Restaurants (Uchi Austin, Houston and Uchiko)

Keck has been in the service industry since he was 18 years old, first in his home state of Vermont, then New York City, and now in Houston, TX, and has traveled to taste wine all over the globe, from France and Austria to Texas and New Zealand. He is pursuing wine certifications with the Court of Master Sommeliers, having recently achieved his Advanced Sommelier certification in October of 2012, also winning the Rudd Scholarship for top honors in the exam.

Why They’re Good, According to Keck:

The McPherson Cellars Viognier jumps out of the glass with all of the classic aromatics—peaches, white flowers, and ripe apples. The wine has a palate coating richness and viscosity, while also having a well-balanced acidity. This would be perfect choice for a white-wine drinker on Thanksgiving, as it would stand up to the turkey and gravy, while beautifully accompanying all the sides.

The Fall Creek Vineyards “Salt Lick Vineyard” Tempranillo is softly tannic, with rich red fruit. Ripe raspberries and cherries are balanced with vanilla and spice from the oak, this single-vineyard Tempranillo is full of sweet fruit, but finishes dry. Just a little spicy, but round, with a long finish, I’d say this is a perfect Texas wine to grace any Thanksgiving table.

Pairing ideas from Keck:

McPherson Cellars Viognier will pair beautifully with yams, white meat of any variety, whether roasted pork or chicken, and anything with a stone fruit (apricot, peach, etc) or cream based sauce. It also shines with a bit of spice or curry, so lightly spiced Asian cuisine would also be a fantastic choice.

Fall Creek “Salt Lick Vineyard” Tempranillo will pair nicely with richer, braised meats, roasted game, and definitely with the Thanksgiving Day turkey! It has enough structure and acidity to stand up to more heavily sauced meats, but still the finesse not to overwhelm a simple standing roast.

Keck’s View of Texas Wine On Down the Road:

I’m really excited by the direction Texas wineries are going as far as variety selection. I won’t argue that there are some terrific Cabernets and Chardonnays being made here, but I think the truly exemplary wines are being made from grapes that traditionally thrive in warmer climates (not rocket science there!), so the Rhone varieties and varieties that excel in Central Spain and Portugal are already setting the trend in high quality Texas wine. 

The pies of Texas are about to be upon the Jersey shore, Staten Island, and Far Rock­away.

Pie man extraordinaire Bud Royer—paterfamilias of the crew that runs Royers Cafe in the central Texas town of Round Top—has made it his mission to bring a little joy and sugar into the lives of folks whose lives were wrecked by Superstorm Sandy.

Royer and a friend are loading up a Ryder’s truck with hundreds of his cafe’s superlative house-made pies. And on Sunday they will start their trek northward. Once they arrive, the goal is to make five to seven stops at relief agencies and soup kitchens (exact locations still being determined). There they hope to hand out 100 to 150 free pies per stop. That’s enough pie for around 5000 people. The flavors being transported are pecan, buttermilk, chocolate chip, and pumpkin. As the saying goes, “Pie makes everything better.”

But wait. There’s more. Royer being tireless, he also dreamed up a way to get some cash (well, plastic) into the hands of needy people. He has set up a link on the cafe’s web site where anybody can contribute $25 (plus $1 handling) toward gift cards at stores like Target, Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc.  Royer and driver/pal, Doug Runyan, will distribute the cards after they arrive.  As of Thursday, some 350 cards had been purchased.

They don’t expect to get much rest for the next week. As Royer said on Thursday, “This project has consumed nearly 20 hours a day for 14 days.” That period included the birthday of his wife, whom he calls Dr. Karen, but she didn’t mind it being ignored. Once the pies are handed out, he and Dr. Karen will spend Thanksgiving with foodie friends Karen Page and Andrew Dorenburg in New York City. Bud and Karen will contribute their famous pecan-topped cranberry congealed salad.

Royer especially salutes the project’s angel, Bill Winsor, CEO of the Dallas Mar­ket Center, whose company is underwriting the cost of the pie delivery. Royer also applauds his daughter Tara, the cafe’s owner, and all the Royers, who have kept the cafe running full-tilt boogie while their husband and father was suffering an attack of temporary insanity.

Follow Royer on Twitter @BudThePieman. He says, “We will be tweeting the whole way.”  The project’s hashtag is #Pies4Sandy.

The wait is over! Sway – a contemporary Thai restaurant on South First Street in Austin – will open its doors on December 9. For those who haven’t followed news about the much-anticipated restaurant, Sway was originally supposed to open this past summer.

For over a year now, the La Condesa team has been releasing tidbits of information about the top secret project. Over the past few months, individuals learned a myriad of details about the restaurant, including the name (Sway, meaning elevated, delicious) and a few of the menu offerings.

Rene Ortiz

The inspiration behind Sway stems from Rene Ortiz’s time of living and working in Sydney, Australia, where he first encountered the modern Thai food movement. Ironically, La Condesa’s owners – Jesse Herman and Delfo Trombetta – also lived in Australia for a time where they too were exposed to the same innovative cuisine.

Back in July, Pat Sharpe and I were invited to try some of the eclectic dishes on Sway’s menu, and even then I believed Sway would become one of the most respected restaurants in the Austin culinary scene – when it finally opened, that is. Here is some of what Pat said about the Sway experience…

“As anyone who’s eaten the interior Mexican cuisine at La Condesa knows, Ortiz takes considerable and tasty liberties with traditional recipes. Sway will be no different. A sampling of six dishes from the fifty-odd on the menu was notable for completely avoiding the sweet, spicy, coconut-milky profile of so many Americanized Thai restaurants…”

Pad Kweitio (cispy pork belly, holy basil, eggplant, wok water) at Sway

Some of the dishes to look forward to on the Sway menus include Jungle Curry (red curry of chicken with eggplant and French beans); Rose Apple Stir-Fry (chicken with shiitake, holy basil, and red chili); Steamed Yuzu Pudding Cake (drunken berry, coconut, Sichuan pepper meringue, and avocado sorbet); Jasmine Tea Panna Cotta (lychee, grape, Thai basil, cilantro, and coconut lychee sorbet); and numerous other Thai-inspired offerings.

Reservations are only accepted for parties of eight or more, the family-style feast, or the signature Moo Sway menu. Visit the restaurant’s website, Twitter, or Facebook for information on menus, hours, etc.

Tagged: austin, Delfo Trombetta, Jesse Herman, Laura Sawicki, Layne Lynch, Rene Ortiz, South First Street, Sway, Thai

Tempranillo Grapes from Bingham Family Vineyards

Last night, I joined a few friends for a wine tasting through Gusto Tastings, an organization run by wine professionals in Austin, Houston and Dallas with the specific intent of making fine wines more approachable to consumers like you and me. They’ve only been around for about a year or so, but their monthly tastings and educational seminars have started to attract some attention—including my own.

For instance, on every first Wednesday of each month, Gusto hosts a Texas vs. The World tasting showcasing a head-to-head comparison of wines made in Texas (with Texas-grown fruit) against wines from other world-class growing areas based on a different grape varietal each month. Last night’s tasting was based on Tempranillo, which is fitting considering that today is Tempranillo Day!

No seriously, it really is. Today, is the second annual International Tempranillo Day, a celebration of the Tempranillo grape, which is indigenous to Spain and is planted in 500,000 acres of the world’s vineyards, making it the fourth most planted wine grape. Until recently, the grape’s entire acreage was almost all grown in Spain. But today, it’s found all over the world including Italy, Mexico, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Australia, France, Portugal, Turkey, Canada, China, Thailand, and you guessed, it, Texas!

In fact, it’s gained such a reputation in Texas that it has fast become what many people are calling the red grape of Texas. (Though that title isn’t exactly ‘official.’)

Dan Gatlin, owner/winemaker for Inwood Estate Vineyards was one of the first to take a gamble on Tempranillo more than a decade ago. His hunch was that the limestone-rich soils and the varying warm-to-cool temperatures in the High Plains near Lubbock would be ideal for the Tempranillo grape—just as it is in the Rioja and Ribero del Duero regions of Spain. He asked High Plains grape grower Neal Newsom to plant a couple of acres. In 2007, he released his 2005 vintage of Tempranillo and found amazing success with consumer feedback.

It wasn’t long before other winemakers followed suit. Today, it’s one the most widely planted grapes in the state. And according to some the state’s top grape growers, including Cliff Bingham of Bingham Family Vineyards, “it’s one of the easiest grapes to grow.”

Fitting, that it should have its own day of celebration. And that Texans can proudly select from a few dozen well-made Tempranillos to enjoy.

Last night Gatlin was the Texas winemaker at the Gusto tasting to help lead us through more than a dozen Texas Tempranillo single variety wines and blends including a special vertical tasting of 5 of his Inwood Estate selections from 2005, 2008, 2009 and 2011. (Still dreaming about the 2005, which had a nose of BBQ smoke, root beer and baked blackberries and tasted every bit the same.)

Gusto Tasting Texas Vs World Tempranillo Tasting (photo courtesy Gusto Tastings)

Each of the wines displayed a wide variety of characteristics from powerfully fruity to light and slightly perfumed, but a few in particular maintained an authentic Old World, earthy quality that seemed more reminiscent of true Spanish Tempranillos—Inwood Estates Cornelius Tempranillo 2005 and Reserve 2008, Hilmy Cellars 2011, Llano Estacado Tempranillo Cellar Reserve 2010, and an early barrel sampling of Flat Creek Estate Tempranillo 2011.

To celebrate your own version of Tempranillo Day, stop by your closest wine merchant—one that sells Texas wine, of course—and see if you can pick up one (or three) to taste. You’ll be surprised by the varying styles, but I think you’ll also be impressed with how many of Texas winemakers are interpreting the versatility of this powerfully complex grape.

If you need a little guidance, here are a few of my Top Texas Tempranillo picks. (Sadly, some of them are only available at the winery and not at your local store, but they’re still worth a try if you can seek them out.)

Fall Creek Vineyards (Salt Lick Vineyards) Tempranillo 2010 ($30)

Hilmy Cellars Tempranillo 2010 ($30 – Sadly, this vintage is sold out, but the 2012 should be available mid-2013)

Inwood Estates Vineyards Cornelius Tempranillo 2009 ($40)

Llano Estacado Winery Cellar Reserve Tempranillo 2010 ($16)

McPherson Cellars La Herencia 2010 (Tempranillo blend) ($14)

Pedernales Cellars Tempranillo Reserve 2010 ($30)

Perissos Vineyards Tempranillo 2010 ($45)

*Duchman Family Winery Tempranillo 2011 (This wine won’t be available until Spring 2013, but after a recent barrel sample with Duchman winemaker Dave Reilly, I think this Tempranillo will be a top Texas contender as well)

And, if you’d like to join in on a Texas Tempranillo discussion, join Texas wine bloggers Russ Kane, Denise Clarke and Jeff Cope for a special Texas Wine Twitter Tasting next Tuesday, November 13 from 7-9 pm. They’ll be tasting from a wide selection of Texas Tempranillos, many of which are in the list above. Check here for more details.

 - Jessica Dupuy

The day has come! Tickets for the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival go on sale today, November 8, at 10 a.m. CST. The Festival, which takes place April 26-28, 2013 at Auditorium Shores and Republic Square Park, will feature a myriad of food and wine events, including hands-on seminars, food, wine, and cocktail tastings, book signings, live music performances, and much more.

The first Austin FOOD & WINE Festival was held in April 2012 – taking the place of the long-standing Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival. Tickets are $850 for a Savor pass and $250 for a Taste pass.

The Savor pass includes priority access to demos, tastings, hands-on events, Grand Tastings, VIP lounges, and the Taste of Texas and Rock Your Taco evening events. Unlike last year, Taste pass holders may also purchase individual tickets for Friday night’s Taste of Texas event ($150) and/or Saturday night’s Rock Your Taco event ($200).

Christina Tosi

A lineup of renowned chefs, talented sommeliers, cocktail experts, and food celebrities will headline the festival, including Marcus Sammuelson, Susan Feniger, Christina Tosi, Tim Love, Paul Qui, Andrew Zimmern, Marc Murphy, and numerous others.

Marcus Sammuelson. Photo taken by Paul Brissman.

The Taste of Texas Kickoff Event at Republic Square Park will feature live music performances by Delta Spirit and Whiskey Shivers and tastings from well-known chefs, including: Tim Byres, chef/co-owner of SMOKE; Jason Dady, chef/owner of Jason Dady Restaurant Group; Ned Elliot, executive chef/owner of Foreign & Domestic; Jodi Elliot, pastry chef/owner of Foreign & Domestic; Aaron Franklin, pitmaster of Franklin Barbecue; Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner, executive chefs/owners of The Pass & Provisions; Sarah Grueneberg, executive chef of Spiaggia; James Holmes, executive chef of Lucy’s Fried Chicken and Olivia; Paul Qui, founder of East Side King; John Russ, executive chef of Lüke; Chris Shepherd, executive chef of Underbelly; Philip Speer, pastry chef of Uchi and Uchiko; Blaine Staniford, executive chef of GRACE; Danny Trace, executive chef of Brennan’s; Tre Wilcox, executive chef of Marquee Grill; Andrew Wiseheart, executive chef of Contigo; and Jamie Zelko, executive chef/owner of Zelko Bistro.

Terrence Gallivan & Seth Siegel-Gardner

At the Rock Your Taco event, a number chefs will compete against each other in creating the “ultimate” taco. Tyson Cole, executive chef of Uchi and winner of last year’s Rock Your Taco competition, will compete against a mix of local and national chefs, including David Bull, executive chef/owner of Congress, Second Bar + Kitchen, and Bar Congress; Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, chef/owners of Animal and Son of a Gun; Susan Feniger, executive chef of Border Grill; Bryce Gilmore, chef/owner of Barley Swine; Tim Love, owner of Love Shack, Lonesome Dove, and Woodshed Smokehouse; Tony Mantuano, chef/partner of Spiaggia; Marc Murphy, executive chef of Landmarc and Ditch Plains; Rene Ortiz, executive chef of La Condesa and Sway; Marcus Samuelsson, chef/owner of Red Rooster Harlem; Laura Sawicki, pastry chef of La Condesa and Sway; Christina Tosi, pastry chef of Momofuku Milk Bar; Jonathan Waxman, chef/owner of Barbuto; and Andrew Zimmern, host of Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods. There will also be a live music performance by Allen Stone at the event.

Paul Qui

The Rock Your Taco winner will be selected by three judges: Christina Grdovic, publisher of FOOD & WINE, Adam Richman, host of Man vs. Food, and a special guest judge. This year’s lineup also features a mix of sommeliers and mixologists, including Tony Abou-Ganim, Devon Broglie, Craig Collins, Anthony Giglio, Ray Isle, Russ Kane, Cathy Mantuano, Bill Norris, Mark Oldman, June Rodil, Jason Stevens, and Nate Wales.

For more information on the fesival or to purchase tickets, please visit the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival website. Follow the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival Twitter and/or Facebook for schedules, details, and news as the festival approaches.

Tagged: 2013 Austin Food & Wine Festival, Andrew Zimmern, Auditorium Shores, austin, Austin Food & Wine Festival, Blaine Staniford, Chris Shepherd, Christina Tosi, Foreign & Domestic, Jamie Zelko, Jason Dady, Jason Dady Restaurant Group, John Russ, Jon Shook, Layne Lynch, Marc Murphy, Marcus Samuelsson, Ned Elliott, Paul Qui, Republic Square Park, smoke, Susan Feniger, Tim Byres, Tim Love, Tre Wilcox, Tyson Cole, Vinny Dotolo

Tagged: cocktails, Dewey, Election Cocktails, Election Day, HandleBar, icenhauer's, Layne Lynch, Mongoose Versus Cobra, peche, Straits

A few months ago, famed cookie-delivery business Tiff’s Treats finally made its move into the city of Houston. Next week, the baked goods company is opening up its second Houston location, this time in the Medical Center. On Saturday, November 10, Tiff’s Treats will host a grand opening event – selling cookies for $3 a dozen and donating the funds to the Cystic Fibrosis Child Life Department at the Texas Children’s Hospital.

Similar to the previous opening, the first ten people in line will get a $100 Tiff’s Treats gift card. There will also be a drawing for free cookies for a year. All the details can be found here.

The third Tiff’s Treats Houston location will be in Midtown and is predicted to open in January. The Tiff’s Treats Round Rock location is still under construction and is expected to open in December.

Tagged: Cystic Fibrosis Child Life Department, Houston, Layne Lynch, Texas Children's Hospital, Tiff's Treats