Eat My Words

Friday, December 21, 2012

Texas Chefs on End of the World Meals

Since the idea that our world may be wiped out today is a little morbid, I figured it was best to take a less cynical approach to covering this apocalyptic occasion. Therefore, I asked a handful of Texas chefs a simple question: If the world were to end today, what would you dine on? Read more to see all the delicious, and sometimes odd, end of the world meals.

“I’d go Rhode Island all the way. It brings back memories of my childhood. This meal is what we would have on the beach after a long day of jumping waves and sunbathing: steamed clams with melted butter, clam cakes and clear chowder, steamed lobster, baked potato, corn on the cob, and for the adult me, a bottle of Willett Rye Whiskey.” – Sonya Cote, chef/owner of Hillside Farmacy.

Moto Utsonomiya and Paul Qui

“My grandmothers pork adobo with garlic rice, tomatoes, cilantro, and shrimp paste.” – Paul Qui of East Side King.

“A bowl of rice for me. Seriously. It has to be a good-quality rice and served right after it’s cooked. A side of soy sauce would be nice.” – Moto Utsonomiya of East Side King.

“South Indian dose with sambar and a few slices of Di Fara’s pizza with a bottle of 1964 and 1968 Bertani Amarone.” – Parind Vora, executive chef of Restaurant Jezebel.

“Lambert’s mac and cheese.” – Rene Ortiz, executive chef of Sway and La Condesa.

“My last meal would be beef chow fun. It was my favorite dish growing up that my mom, who is Chinese, made. The key is the wide rice noodles. The texture and width of them really makes the dish. Chow fun also includes green onions, bean sprouts, yellow onions, bok choy, and marinated, thinly sliced beef.  The sauce base includes oyster sauce, sugar, ground white pepper, salt, garlic, ginger, and a little soy. I would choose this meal for a variety of reasons. One, it brings back childhood memories and makes me feel at home near my mom when I eat it. Two, it tastes great and I love noodles. Noodles are probably my favorite food other than ice cream.” – Eric Silverstein, owner of The Peached Tortilla.

“In this order, I would eat/drink: a cream soda, white anchovies, Damariscotta oysters, sea urchin roe, crab cakes, an avocado, baguette and butter, Coenobium (Italian white wine), fried chicken with gravy, mashed potatoes and kale, stupid old Burgundy, roquefort, cheesecake with no sauce, double espresso with cream, and calvados. This is just a greatest hits. It’s the end of the world, so I could probably eat a lot without recourse.” – Jesse Griffiths, owner/chef of Dai Due.

Eggs Benedict with a Southern twist.

“I would have a surf and turf variety of Eggs Benedict with a Southern twist. The dish would consist of a buttermilk biscuit base, topped with a medium rare tournedo of beef, next a jumbo lump crab cake, and a plump poached egg. Sauce would be a béarnaise and probably a little demi on the plate as well. I would follow up with a tub of Blue Bell Blackberry Cobbler Ice Cream; it’s amazing!” – Brad Turner, senior sous chef at The Carillon.

“Mine would be papas y huevos hervidos con llajua – my favorite food experience I shared with my grandpa in Bolivia. It’s a simple peasant dish: hard boiled potatoes and eggs with llajua. Llajua is a traditional salsa in Bolivia that’s made on a tabletop mortar and pestle. It’s made from tomatoes, perejil, y locoto (jalapeño).” – Plinio Sandalio, executive pastry chef at The Carillon.

“The last dish I would love to enjoy would be fairly typical for my background, but with a mix of the new. A thick ribeye steak, seared on cast iron, with pan-fried home potato fries, blistered jalapeño peppers, salsa ranchera, crumbled queso fresco cheese, and buttered Asparagus. On the side, a crispy beef taco with all the fixings. And a Mexican coke. I’ll be a happy man on the way out.” – Jesse Perez, Arcade Midtown Kitchen’s owner and executive chef. Arcade Midtown Kitchen is opening in 2013 in San Antonio at the Pearl Brewery.

“My last two bottles of wine would be Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche Grand Cru 2008 and Remoissent Le Montrachet Grand Cru 2008. I must have two wines. Both Burgundy. Both Grand Cru. That’s how I go out.” – Chris McFall, sommelier of Paggi House.

“My last me would be three dozen Gulf oysters with horseradish, lemon, and cocktail sauce. Why three dozen, you ask? Because one just isnt enough. I have always loved oysters. People hate on Gulf oysters for not being as clean-tasting as their Atlantic or Pacific cousins, but I enjoy the muddy complex flavors that come from Gulf oysters.” – Matt Marcus, chef of Eatsie Boys.

“Chef Gray Kunz’s braised short rib with grits, Meaux mustard, and fried horseradish. The ingredient list to make the dish is enormous, but the balance and amount of flavor in the final product is out of this world. At Cafe Gray, the pastry team would barter desserts with the line cooks to get a little taste of this amazing entrée.” – Steven Cak, executive pastry chef of Parkside, Olive & June, and Backspace.

“Peanut butter and bruleed banana buttermilk pancakes: a stack of four fluffy buttermilk pancakes layered with creamy peanut butter. The top would be finished with more peanut butter and sliced bananas that are sprinkled with sugar and bruleed. For the finishing touch, it will be drizzled with real maple syrup. Best served with a huge glass of milk. Peanut butter and banana pancakes were my favorite meal growing up as a kid. I could eat pancakes for every meal of the day, and my mom would always make them different ways for me every day.” Devan Gernert of The League Kitchen & Tavern.

“I would have my husband’s homemade meat loaf with mashed potatoes and creamed corn. I have a recipe that is amazing! For dessert, I would make a vanilla cake with raspberry filling, topped with vanilla buttercream frosting and sprinkled with mini chocolate chips.” – Vanessa O’Donnell, Ooh La La Dessert Boutique’s pastry chef/owner.

“This was a tough choice to make! It boiled down to four things for me: New York City street pizza (just cheese), barbecue pork fried rice in Chinatown (New York City), angel hair pasta with homemade marinara and fresh grated Romano cheese, and my dad’s homemade fried wontons with apricot duck sauce. I chose the fried wontons. My dad would make these fried wontons from scratch when I was a boy for cocktail parties and I would help. It is such a basic dish; just flour, water, egg, and salt for the dough and whatever table scraps were around, like beef, pork, chicken sauteed with shallots, scallions, garlic, soy, ginger, and a hint of sesame oil. And the addictive duck sauce.” Cliff Abrahams, director of operations and executive chef at Tony C’s Coal Fired Pizza.

Monday, December 17, 2012

Top Texas Wines of 2012

This year, we’ve decided to offer up a retrospective of some of the top Texas wines for 2012. Starting November 1, I began tasting through a sampling of more than 60 different Texas wines including selections from larger, well-known producers including Llano Estacado Winery, Fall Creek Vineyards and Messina Hof, to smaller estate producers including Calais Winery, Perissos Vineyard and Winery, Pontotoc Vineyards, and Landon Winery. I tried to get as wide of a selection as possible. There are MANY Texas wines out there, which means it’s virtually impossible to try them all. In the end, I’ve managed to whittle down a list of 10 reds and 10 whites that span a breadth of the great winemaking Texas is seeing right now.

A few things to note:

1) I tried to taste wines that were available at the time of evaluation. (November 1—December 15). There are a number of beautiful wines that I’ve tasted throughout 2012 that could easily have earned a spot on this list, such as the McPherson Cellars Roussanne Reserve or the Lost Oak 2010 Syrah—but these were not available in circulation. I should note that since tasting through these wines in the past month, a few of them now have very limited availability, but were able to find at the time of evaluation.

2) All of the tastings were done blind. Once I collected the wines for tasting, all of them were brown-bagged and opened by a third party before tasting in an effort to keep all evaluations objective and fair.

3) Each wine tasted was awarded a score between 1 and 5 in the categories of nose, palate, finish, and overall drinkability for a total of 20 points per wine. The final list is based on the top scoring evaluations.

4) Finally, and most importantly, this a list compiled based on my own personal tastes and overall understanding of what well-made, balanced wine should taste like. But in the world of wine, as with good Texas barbecue or Tex-Mex food, what really matters is what tastes good to you. Discovering that for yourself is the most rewarding part of learning more about Texas wine.

This is a list of all wines that scored 18 or higher in overall points in alphabetical order.

Red Wines

Brennan Vineyards 2010 Dark Horse

~$19 – Winery (Brennan Vineyards and 4.0 Cellars)

One of the first showings of Texas grown Nero D’Avola, a Sicilian grape known for its sweet tannins and peppery flavors. This wine is lighter in style, but big on complexity. It’s smoky and spicy with hints of bright red fruit, wild orchid, white pepper and even a little bacon. If this is what we have to look forward to from Nero D’Avola, I look forward to seeing more of it in the future.

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Montepulciano

~$22 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

This wine works well as an every day wine that can easily make the grade for a special occasion. It’s fruit forward with blackberry, blueberry, vanilla and cinnamon on the nose with a hint of earthiness and medium tannins on the palate. Montepulciano has been a consistent work horse for Duchman from vintage to vintage.

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Nero D’Avola

~$20 – Winery

The first two Nero D’Avola wines released in Texas this year also happen to make this list. The fruit in this wine has dark blackberry and aromatic ripe blueberry. You’ll find notes of vanilla and baking spices, but also a bit of leather and excellent tannic structure on the palate.

 

 

Inwood Estates Vineyards 2009 Magdalena 

~$50 – Select liquor stores, winery

This wine is an example of how beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon can actually be in Texas. The nose has rich, ripe red fruit, soft vanilla and the perfume of walking into a greenhouse full of violets. With such a big nose, the wine is actually lighter on the palate balanced with a hint of acid and nervy tannic structure.

 

Llano Estacado Tempranillo Cellar Reserve 2010

$16 – Grocery stores such as HEB, select liquor stores, winery

For those who are unsure of Texas Tempranillo, this wine makes a good introduction. Not only because it’s just a good wine in general, but because it’s a rounded, approachable version of what this often cantankerous grape can be like. You’ll catch hints of raspberry, blackberry, bacon, smoke and portobello mushroom.

 

McPherson Cellars Sangiovese 2009

~$16-$18 – Some grocery stores, Spec’s, select liquor stores, winery

Rich with dark cherry and raspberry, a little forest floor, and a hit of vanilla, this full-bodied wine has a lovely round finish and drinks beautifully. (Note: This is a wine that is For Sale In Texas Only, which means less than 75 percent of the wine is from Texas. The remainder is from neighboring New Mexico.)

 

Pedernales Tempranillo Reserve 2010

~$30 – Select liquor stores, winery

This Tempranillo gives us a glimpse at the true nature of Tempranillo in Texas. It’s a finicky grape with dark fruit, mushroom, tobacco and often a little leather. The Pedernales tames some of the wild tannic structure in this grape without stripping it down too much. You also find hints of cinnamon, vanilla, and a touch of green parsley. This wine is rustic, yet elegant.

 

Perissos Vineyard and Winery 2010 Racker’s Blend

$45 – Winery

Seth Martin of Perissos Vineyard and Winery likes to get the most flavor from his estate grapes, which grow on a peaceful tract of land in the Colorado River Valley near Marble Falls. Each year, he selects a portion of each of the red varietals that grow on his property to blend into his Racker’s Blend. A true field blend, the percentage of grapes varies from year to year. This 2010 vintage is big with ripe dark and red fruit, rich floral perfume and a melange of cocoa, cherry and fresh tobacco. With more than 15% alcohol, it’s not a wine for sissies.

Pontotoc Vineyard 2011 San Fernando Academy 

$25 – Select Central Texas outlets including East End Wines (Austin), House.Wine and Lincoln Street Wine Bar (Fredericksburg), Sandstone Cellars Wine Bar (Mason), Salt Lick Cellars (Driftwood), winery (info@pontotocvineyard.com)

This is a big wine. What’s that former soap opera? The Bold and the Beautiful? That’s this wine. And not just because well-loved Mason County winemaker Don Pullum threw just about everything but the kitchen sink in here. (Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane, Tempranillo, Grenache and Syrah) But because it’s just a great all around red wine—especially for the Texas steak lover. On the nose is lush dark fruit,  green pepper, vanilla and cocoa, and a little bit of dark forest floor. This is a big, balanced wine at a restrained 12.5 percent alcohol. Get some.

William Chris Vineyards 2011 Hunter

$32 – winery

For those of you who enjoy Pinot Noir for its red fruit and earthy qualities, this is the Texas Wine for you. Let me be clear that this is NOT a Pinot Noir. In fact it’s a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre. But this wine has all the elegance and complexity of a French Burgundy. Excellent bright, red fruit with a refined finish.

 

Honorable Mention: Messina Hof Cabernet Franc Reserve, Salt Lick Cellars 2010 Mourvedre, Duchman Family Winery 2010 Aglianico, Landon Winery Tempranillo Reserve 2011, Llano Estacado 1836

White Wines

Becker Vineyards 2011 Fumé Blanc

~$10 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

One of the top sellers from Becker, this is a consistently good wine that balances the best of its citrus, peach, and white flower aromas with a dry, balanced finish. And at $10, it’s a top pick for an every day white wine.

 

 

Brennan Vineyards 2011 Lily

$18 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery (Brennan Vineyards or 4.0 Cellars)

This wine was a happy surprise. Its aromatic bouquet of white and yellow flowers with hints of honeysuckle and apricot almost trick the senses into thinking it may be a little sweet, but it turns out to have a balanced off-dry finish with good acidity that prevents it from being cloying. Excellent wine for spicy foods.

 

CapRock Winery 2010 Roussanne

~$15-$17 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

This golden beauty took home a gold medal from the 2012 Dallas Morning News and TEXSOM International Wine Competition this year. And with good reason. With lush citrus, young peach, and a touch of minerality, this is a great wine to have on hand during the summer time.

 

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Trebbiano

$12 – Winery

Those who like bone dry wines brimming with minerality and a hint of citrus will love this wine. Lemon zest, a touch of red apple and hot, wet limestone dominate the nose and palate with a balanced, rounded finish. A perfect white for a red wine drinker.

 

 

Hilmy Cellars 2011 Muscat Canelli

$22 – Winery

Typically this is a wine that you might find on a dessert wine menu. Muscat Canelli tends to reveal quite a bit of sugar in the wines it produces. And while this wine definitely has hints of sweetness, it also has a beautiful balance with acidity. If you like sweet wine, you’ll love this one. If you DON’T like sweet wine, I’d still give it a try with spicy Asian food like Thai or Szechuan Chinese. That little touch of sweetness will pair perfectly with the heat from the food.

 

Lost Oak Winery 2011 Riesling

~$17 – Winery (Lost Oak Winery or 4.0 Cellars)

If you’re a Riesling fan, you’ll probably like this wine. If you’re NOT a Riesling fan, I encourage you to try this wine. It’s not the cloyingly sweet syrup you’ve come to expect out of a Blue Nun bottle. This Riesling is dry with citrus, apricot, white tea, and the faint scent of honeysuckle. The crisp finish is similar to what you’d find in French Alsatian Rieslings—not surprising considering owner/winemaker Gene Estes spent a few years living in Alsace.

 

McPherson Cellars 2011 Les Copains

~$12-$14, Some grocery stores, Spec’s, select liquor stores, winery

Pretty on the nose and pretty on the palate, this is the kind of wine that can please all friends at the table. Rather fitting since its name is French for “friends,” which is particularly how the fruit, sophistication and complexity of this blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache blanc work together in this wine. Note: the 2011 vintage was almost sold out when this wine was sampled. Look to the 2012 vintage in the Spring of 2013.

 

Pedernales Cellars Reserve Viogner 2011

With a strong focus on Viognier as the primary white grape in their program, Pedernales Cellars continues to hammer out a standard of elegance for this grape that is creating a foundation for what Viognier should taste like. Not only in Texas, but anywhere else. Swoony floral characteristics with ripe pear, melon and apricot as well as a hint of juicy fruit gum perk up the nose, while a dry and crisp finish with balanced acidity make this wine the perfect alternative to your average Chardonnay.

 

Perissos Vineyards and Winery 2011 Roussanne

$34 – Winery

You can almost taste the complexity in this wine simply by looking at its bright golden color. Grown on the High Plains, this French Rhone varietal shows off its very best in this wine with ripe pear, yellow flowers, cantaloupe and honey-baked fruit on both the nose and palate with a crisp finish. This is a perfect example of what Roussanne can do in Texas soil.

 

Vineyard at Florence 2011 Aurelia

~$30 – Select liquor stores, winery

For a long time, Texas has taken stabs at producing wine from the American hybrid Blanc du Bois. But the reviews have often been mixed. The Aurelia from the Vineyards at Florence is finally the exception. A beautiful wine with soft tropical fruit along with a fragrant floral bouquet of white and yellow flowers. Its crisp, dry finish leaves a hint of minerality, making this a perfect warm-weather wine with food.

 

Honorable Mention: Duchman Family Winery 2010 Vermentino, Fall Creek Vineyards 2011 Chardonnay

- Jessica Dupuy

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Thursday, December 13, 2012

Ch-Check It Out: Eatsie Boys Brick-and-Mortar is Now Open

One of Houston’s most popular food trucks, Eatsie Boys, has officially gone brick-and-mortar. The much-anticipated, much-hyped Eatsie Boys Cafe opened its doors to Houston diners this morning. Eater Houston first broke the story. Owners Matt Marcus, Ryan Soroka, and Alex Vassilakidis have been working on the restaurant project since March, after taking over the former Kratsman Cafe space and announcing they were working on an eatery.

According to Eater, the cafe serves “a limited menu that mixes a few familiar favorites from the truck like Frank the Pretzel with breakfast items and [a number of] new dishes.” A few local products will be featured as well, such as ”coffee from Greenway Coffee & Tea, bagels from New York Bagel Shop, and products from Marcus’s father’s business The Grateful Bread.”

Next up from the Eatsie Boys is the 8th Wonder Brewery, which is reportedly getting closer and closer to opening.

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Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Justin Timberlake sets his eyes on Austin barbecue scene

According to a story in the Atlanta Business Chronicle, a new barbecue restaurant is coming to Austin in 2013. And this is no ordinary barbecue restaurant; it’s backed by Justin Timberlake. Yup, that Justin Timberlake… The Austin restaurant is part of a 30-city nationwide expansion plan for Southern Hospitality, a Memphis-style barbecue restaurant that first opened in New York in 2007.

Southern Hospitality BBQ Sauce

Restaurant locations in Atlanta and Denver are currently in the works, and Chicago and Austin are planned to open in 2013.

A different story (published last August) in Rolling Stone claims Ryan Tedder, the frontman for OneRepublic, also has his hands in the project and intends to bring the restaurant chain to “Denver, Nashville, Dallas, Austin, Houston, New Orleans, Atlanta, Phoenix, Palo Alto, and Washington, D.C.”

“I have been involved with Southern Hospitality BBQ in New York for some time, and I’m looking forward to taking this relationship to the next level,” Tedder said at the time.

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Friday, December 7, 2012

Deana Saukam on Paul Qui, Engagement, Traveling, Eating, and What’s to Come in 2013

Every king needs his queen, and for Paul Qui – chef/owner of East Side King and winner of Top Chef Texas – that queen is Deana Saukam. Deana, better known for her alter ego the East Side Queen, has been by Paul’s side ever since his whirlwind rise to fame. After Paul’s win on Top Chef Texas, the couple has been traveling the world, planning new restaurant projects, and soaking up nothing but love from the Austin culinary community.

Not only has this been a great year for Qui; it has also been a banner year for Deana, who got engaged to Paul in New York earlier this year. The stylish, bubbly Deana talks with TEXAS MONTHLY about her year of traveling and eating, working in fashion, and what’s to come in 2013.

This has been a big year for both you and Paul. Tell me about your world travels and what you two have been up to recently.

We had a great year of travel. It was a whirlwind, beginning with the Top Chef Texas finale in Vancouver, British Columbia, with non-stop travel from February through November. The first set of trips – Louisville to London – was taken without any stops back to Austin in between cities. We went to Louisville, Kentucky for the Kentucky Derby and to visit Ed Lee, a contestant on Top Chef, and his wife, Diane; New York for the James Beard Awards. Paul won this year in his category, so that was a definite bonus; Paris to wine, dine, and shop; London for more delicious food, shopping, and to see the Snow White and the Huntsman premiere. We also had dinner from Heston Blumenthal, St. John, and Hakkasan; then, we went to Tokyo for more R&R. Highlights from that trip included Jiro, Tsukiji Fish Market, Ramen Inoue (a ramen stand in Tsukiji), the Tsukemen ramen in Tokyo Station, shopping in Ginza, and all the little izakayas next to the train stations. I also fell in love with MOS Burger, since I have a soft spot for really good burger chains, like In-n-Out. We went to Copenhagen for the MAD2 food symposium, hosted by Renee Redzepi. The whole conference was an incredible experience, and I have it on my list to go back every year. Copenhagen is so beautiful, and everyone is so friendly and fashionable, and the weather was amazing while we were there. We celebrated both our birthdays in Spain, starting in Madrid, on to Marques de Riscal, then San Sebastian, with a day trip to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. During this trip, we did so much and had such a great time. We ate such amazing food in all the places we went. We went to Manila, Philippines to see where Paul grew up and experience all the cuisine and culture that really influence him. The food was delicious, and Paul’s family is really great. Paul had to make an appearance to promote the Emmys, so we hung out in LA for a bit. Other trips we took included Chicago; New York City; Las Vegas; Kansas City; Seattle; Vancouver; Portland; Aspen; Washington, DC; Columbus, Ohio; and Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. I hope I haven’t forgotten any places we visited this year!

Since returning from our last trip, we’ve been working on opening East Side King at Hole in the Wall and Paul’s upcoming flagship restaurant, Qui, which is planned to open in spring 2013. Also in development is a fifth East Side King location on South Lamar. We are taking a break from traveling so we can focus on East Side King and Qui, among other side projects.

What was the most interesting or surprising culinary experience you had on your trips? Any crazy foods or restaurants you were exposed to?

I would have to say that my top places to eat this year were Copenhagen, San Sebastian, and Tokyo. Every place we go to is surprising and interesting in its own way. I am a pretty adventurous eater. I eat pretty much anything and everything, so there wasn’t anything that was too shocking. They did serve us live tiny shrimp that jumped out of mason jars at Noma and larvae and ants during the MAD2 Food Symposium, provided by the Nordic Food Lab. The ants have the same chemical make up as lemongrass, so they were demonstrating how these naturally found proteins can be substituted for certain flavors. The “craziest” restaurant I ate at this year would have to be the meal we had with Nathan Myhrvold in his Cooking Lab. It wasn’t “crazy” per se, and it’s not an actual restaurant, but the entire meal was definitely extremely interesting, and the food was pretty much perfect. I was in awe during the entire meal. I am a bit of a nerd, so being around so much sophisticated laboratory equipment while eating an amazing scientifically prepared meal with a genius was pretty intense. Also, since it is not an actual restaurant, the experience felt even more special.

From what I understand you, like Paul, had quite an interesting culinary upbringing.

My mother is a really great cook, and my dad can eat a lot of food. Like a lot of food. It is pretty amazing. We’re Cambodian, so she would cook a lot at home. Cambodian food is very similar to Vietnamese food, but with influences from Thai, Chinese, and French cuisine. My family loves food, so we’re always eating and talking about food. We also have family in France, so we would travel there in the summers when I was growing up and, of course, eat everything.

How have you been involved in the development of Paul’s new restaurants?

I have been sitting in and giving input on the design development meetings for Qui, and I’ll also be handling all of their PR and Marketing. We are working with a tailor to custom some aspects of the server uniforms, and since I graduated with a degree in fashion design, I’m pretty excited to be a part of the design process. I have been working closely with Paul and June Rodil, Qui’s general manager, to develop the look and feel of Qui. For the East Side Kings, I handle their PR, marketing, social media, catering, and events. I also help out in other ways when I can. I stay out of the kitchen, but I am a great taste-tester.

What do you think are some of the nuances or details that make Paul’s restaurants successful?

Besides the food, which is obviously the key element, the nuances or details that make Paul’s restaurants successful is hard to pin down exactly. I think it mainly comes down to personality. Although we are all serious about the food, we still want to have fun and don’t take ourselves too seriously. For example, we’ve incorporated yellow from Peelander-Z to paint a few of our locations, which I love. I feel as though that comes across in the food and the whole East Side King look and feel. Kind of like a pirate ship. For Qui, we’ve got a few surprises that will keep the vibe alive. Another element is the service. For East Side King, although we’re serving from a food trailer, we always try to stress the service aspect as much as we can.  We want to be able to take care of our guests and make sure that they’re happy, while maintaining the East Side King atmosphere.

What are some of your favorite Austin restaurants, eateries, or bars to hit up? Any dish recommendations I should know about?

I’m still a fan of the East Side dive bars, and I could eat Asian food every day. I’ve been taste-testing so much ramen and other East Side King dishes these past few weeks that my brain is foggy for recommendations right now. I do really like going to Ramen Tatsu-Ya, Titaya’s Thai Cuisine, Tam Deli & Cafe, Uchiko, Second Bar + Kitchen, and Hopdoddy’s, to name a few places.

Are there any chefs or restaurateurs that you really admire in Austin?

I think Bryce Gilmore and Jack Gilmore are great. I love the father and son aspect. I love what Aaron Franklin is doing, and what a nice and humble guy he is despite his launch to barbecue fame. Tyson Cole, of course. Paul Qui isn’t bad either.

What are some dishes you like to make at home? Do you have any staple or go-to dishes?

To be honest, I do not do too much home cooking. Since we’ve been traveling so much this year, neither one of us has really cooked too much at home, except for the one time we hosted a dinner party and the time we threw a holiday party. One of my goals for 2013 is to cook more at home.

You have a strong knowledge of fashion. I know you’ve got your hands quite full, but do you ever think of doing a business or concept with that?

I actually just started as the fashion stylist for a new magazine, DAM – Downtown Austin Magazine – and the first issue debuts in January 2013. We just wrapped our first shoot yesterday, the same day that East Side King at Hole in the Wall opened. It was a little hectic juggling both projects, but in the end, I’m extremely proud of what both East Side King and the DAM team accomplished in the same day. I love that I am able to break away from the restaurant scene for a bit when I’m working on styling for the magazine. It’s nice and therapeutic. I would also love to own my own store one day or do something with design, but I don’t have any immediate plans for that yet.

What about a food concept? It only seems appropriate that the East Side Queen would have her own project.

I would love to do something with food as well, particularly baking or desserts, but for right now, I do not plan on opening any restaurants of my own. I am no chef and am much more useful when I stay out of the kitchen. I like cooking and baking, but just as a hobby. Maybe one day!

In the midst of all the madness of this year, you got engaged. Congratulations! Would you be willing to tell me about the proposal?

Thanks! It’s kind of a long story, but basically, the ring arrived while we were in New York for Paul’s City Grit Pop-up Restaurant. The hotel delivered the FedEx box with the ring in it to me in our hotel room, and I knew something was up. I called my best friend, Betsy Granger, to tell her that I was pretty sure this box had the ring in it, and she pretended not to know that it was actually the ring, although she had been helping Paul with the ring the whole time. When I called Paul to tell him a package had arrived for him at the hotel, he sounded really nervous and told me not to open it. He called me back five minutes later and asked me to bring him the package to the kitchen, saying it was an ingredient he needed. It was all really strange. Later that evening after service, Paul proposed to me in our hotel room. We left for Spain from New York a few days later to celebrate our birthdays, and it was the best trip!

How long did it take you, after you and Paul started dating, to realize that he was gifted? Did you ever envision anything like what you guys have created?

I met Paul nine years ago at Uchi through mutual friends, so I had seen his rise in the ranks at the restaurant. I never really paid much attention to it though and considered him to be “an acquaintance who was a chef from Uchi.” I always knew he was talented, but after we started dating, I realized how driven he was. When they were opening Uchiko, I knew that Paul had crafted some really remarkable dishes. Maybe I was blinded by love, but I really felt like Paul was really on to something, to put it simply. I have always wanted to build something with my significant other, but I never knew that it would be what it is today. I feel really blessed and proud of what we’ve got going on. Of course, there’s still more to do and always things to work on, but I’m pretty happy with what’s going on right now.

What’s next for you guys? What are you looking forward to in 2013?

Up next is Qui Restaurant on East Sixth Street, a fifth East Side King on South Lamar – both in spring 2013 – more work on East Side King at Hole in the Wall, and hopefully more projects that are currently in the idea/discussion phase right now. We also need to maintain and continue to develop the current East Side Kings. Oh, and planning a wedding, possibly in Iceland! I am very excited to see what will happen next. I look forward to being home more so we can get things done, but I also hope we can squeeze a few trips in 2013.

(For more on Qui and Saukum, read today’s TM Daily Post piece about East Side King and the Hole in the Wall.)

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Wednesday, December 5, 2012

A Twirl Around The Pearl

If there’s anything the first few years at San Antonio’s The Pearl has shown us, it’s that giving a fresh new face to an iconic Texas landmark really can revive a once dilapidated part of town, if not a whole city. This 23-acre sight along the north side of the San Antonio River was originally established in the 1880s as the Pearl Brewing Company and endured a storied history lasting more than a century. But in recent years, it’s undergone a complete renovation. We’ve seen the Culinary Institute of America plant one of its satellite locations here with a Latin-inspired curriculum and NAO, its very own restaurant featuring a rotation of resident chefs under Executive Chef Geronimo Lopez who cover a whole perspective of Latin-American flavors. The Pearl hosts a handful of local retailers as well as a sprawling weekend farmers’ market and a slew of seasonal festivals. And perhaps most appetizing are the handful of San Antonio-based chefs who have opened such celebrated restaurants as Il Sogno and Sandbar, from Chef Andrew

Chicken Mole Sopa at La Gloria Ice House

Weissman, and La Gloria Ice House, from Chef Johnny Hernandez. And now there’s a whole second phase of flavors to try. Last Thursday night, the Pearl hosted a special media tasting of some of the development’s newest additions. (And we happened to indulge in a few nearby excursions as well.)

The Granary  — A counter-service BBQ joint by day, but a brew pub and full service restaurant serving composed barbcue-inspired plates by night. (Think Szechuan duck leg and Moroccan lamb shoulder.) This turn-of-the-century home at The Pearl is where, no matter the time of day, you can be sure that brothers/owners TIm and Alex Rattray will be smoking

House-made Pastrami at The Granary

some type of meat—whether a whole butchered grass-fed cow from Sabinal, or a thick hunk of Niman Ranch pork. The day I visited, they shared a steaming morsel of freshly-smoked pastrami that was so good it almost made me cry. You’ll also find an assortment of sides including crispy grit fritters (yum) and the brothers’ own version of Texas Toast griddled with a smear of beef tallow and served with a side of butter infused with beef drippings straight from the smoker. (Side of Lipitor recommended.) And the beers are pretty good as well—especially the Belgian style Rye Saison and the dark and stormy Brown Ale. But I really wouldn’t leave here without swirling a mug of homemade root beer made with pure cane sugar and sarsaparilla.

Boiler House — A self-proclaimed Texas Grill and Wine Garden, the Boiler House is every bit as Texas-sized in flavor as it is in its expansive two-story, 6,000 square-foot space. (Most of its significant architectural features have been preserved from its original function as the boiler house of the Pearl Brewery.) From the owners of Max’s Wine Dive, we wouldn’t expect anything less. Chef

Boiler House Executive Chef James Moore demonstrating a steak preparation

James Moore is a San Antonio native who has found his true home at the helm of this ranch-style restaurant. You’ll find wild game, Gulf seafood and myriad local ingredients, but their specialty, as you might expect, is steak. As if the grilled-to-perfection Prime grade beef isn’t enough to whet your appetite, Moore also serves up an assortment of compound butters including a bone marrow-infused version that he maintains adds “just a bit of unctuousness.”

Arcade Midtown Kitchen — Set to open in early 2013, make no mistake that this approachable-yet-sophisticated American kitchen concept is named for the architectural feature of a succession of arches along the exterior of a building. (In other words, if you’re thinking this is the place to bring your pre-teen for a maze of loud and obnoxious video games, you’re out of luck.) San Antonio native—by way of Atlanta, Santa Fe and Los Angeles—Chef/Owner Jesse

Lobster Sweet Potato Taco from Arcade Midtown Kitchen

Perez offered a walk-through of his unfinished restaurant interior and also gave a tasty preview of his menu. From the two helpings I had of lobster and sweet potato tacos wrapped in herb-masa crepes with corn-chile-citrus sauce, I’d say we’re in for a sensational treat when Perez officially opens the breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot at the end of January.

Bakery Lorraine  - Just a few clicks down the road from The Pearl is the new Bakery Lorraine, perhaps the only traditional French-style bakery in San Antonio. (At least that I’ve been able to find.) It’s the product of two former Napa Valley Bouchon Bakeryalums-turned-Rackspace software company employees who just couldn’t shake their love of baking. As co-owner Anne Ng says, “Once you’re bitten by the baking bug, that’s

Sweet treats from Bakery Lorraine

it.” Here you’ll find ‘the real deal’ in croissants, eclairs, macarons and tarts as well as an assortment of muffins cookies and focaccia sandwiches. From the smiles Ng and baker/co-owner Jeremy Mandrell beam from their petite little kitchen in this cheerful grey-hued craftsman-style home on East Grayson, it’s clear these two don’t miss their software gigs one little bit.

The Brooklynite  - Also, a short distance away, this sleek pre-Prohibition style craft cocktail bar popped up with little warning. Yet its word-of-mouth buzz from the loyal fans of craft bartender Jeret Peña (a James Beard nominee) has quickly made the Brooklynite the place for the see-and-be-seen crowd. Though happy hour is hopping with the post-work crowd, it‘s the late night crowd that brings an alluring verve to this place. You’ll find everything from Old Fashions and Vieux Carrés to the goulish sounding Corpse Revivers and Blood and Sands, but having recently returned from a trip to Ireland, I opted for the boozy Tipperary with Irish whiskey, sweet vermouth and green chartreuse. Reservations strongly recommended.

- Jessica Dupuy

 

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Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Feast announces shutter on Twitter, Houston diners shocked

In case you haven’t heard, Feast, Houston’s first notable snout-to-tail restaurant,  announced it will close its doors for good in August 2013 after their five-year lease comes to an end. The shocking shutter announcement came via Twitter last week: “So the bad news is we’re closing in 9 months but the good news is you have 9 months to come eat at Feast! Thanks for all of your support.”

In July 2008, Pat Sharpe selected Feast as Pat’s Pick, and had this to say about the restaurant: “Given the amount of cajoling it takes for most people to even try organ meats, why would restaurant owners go to so much trouble? Because they think it’s important. Richard and James are big proponents of ‘nose to tail’ eating. This is a notion popularized by their highly regarded compatriot Fergus Henderson, of St. John, in London, who advocates using every part of an animal, inside and out. But in the end, while it’s fun to dine on the edge and admirable to be a conscientious carnivore, the main reason to go to Feast is for the flavors. Yes, you will be part of something significant, but mainly, you’ll eat very well.”

So why is the restaurant closing its doors? “There were not enough people coming through the doors on a regular basis,” James Silk, co-owner of Feast, admitted to the Houston Chronicle.

Feast received numerous accolades through the years, recognized by Bon Appétit, Texas Monthly, The New York Times, and even the James Beard Foundation. The restaurant was a pioneer in the snout-to-tail movement that has since taken over the Houston culinary scene. Restaurants like Underbelly and Oxheart have followed in their footsteps. The restaurant will be sorely missed.

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Monday, December 3, 2012

Latin Bites chef visits Peru, brings home new menu inspirations

A few months ago, Latin Bites executive chef Roberto Castre took a trip to Peru to attend Mistura, an exciting culinary festival that takes place in Lima every year. During the culinary visit, the acclaimed chef encountered some new trends and restaurant dishes that have become all the rage throughout his homeland. Here, Castre discusses his trip to Peru, how he has seen the country change, and what new dishes he brought back with him to feature on the Latin Bites menu.

What was the trip to Peru for? What were you going there specifically to find?

The main reason for the trip to Peru was to attend Mistura, the biggest culinary event in South America. I also wanted to visit various restaurants in Lima in order to learn about new gastronomic tendencies in Peru. I went there to find new flavors and textures, learn a bit about the gastronomic culture of my country and the latest tendencies, and learn more about the origins of our traditional dishes.

I was surprised by the influx of Asian influences your new dishes had. Is that something you’ve seen change or evolve in the Peruvian culinary scene?

Gastronomically speaking, Peru has evolved so much lately and that is reflected in the quality of the restaurants there. Lima has the most culinary schools in the world, and I think that says a lot. In Peru, gastronomy is not only an industry; it’s a social and economic movement that’s part of our Peruvian identity. In Peru, the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine has evolved tremendously. This is why we are able to find such wonderful places with this type of cuisine. Peruvian cuisine is greatly influenced by Japanese and Chinese cuisine, and this has been happening for many years. The difference now is that it has been applied to different levels thanks to new culinary techniques.

Tell me a bit about your Peru trip. What are some of the new culinary influences you encountered during your travels?

I was in Peru for a week, and to be honest, it wasn’t enough time to enjoy all the things my country can offer as a culinary destination. Nevertheless, it was an extraordinary experience to be able to visit five to seven restaurants a day, apart from visiting the Mistura Fair where you can see over 300 restaurants and nearly 300 typical dishes to feed the half-a-million people that visit the fair on those days. Without a doubt, eating at local spots was a unique experience. It meant a lot to return to my origins and see the dishes being created, feel them, smell them, and taste those flavors and dishes that have made our cuisine what it is today. That is priceless.

Detail the new dishes you’ve added to the menu and how those reflect what you saw in Peru.

Tiradito de Maracuya, a finely cut fish, like sashimi, served over a maracuya sauce, similar to the one in our cebiche, served with quinoa and sweet potato puree. This was inspired by a cebiche I tasted at Mercado de Rafael Osterling restaurant. Cebiche de Mercado is a fish and octopus cebiche that comes with fried calamari. The dish was inspired by my visit to the markets where they put a bit of everything in their cebiches. Duck rice – rice infused with cilantro, dark beer, and macerated corn, served with sweetened duck, marinated in two types of Peruvian peppers. Quinoa salad – two textures of quinoa, soft and crispy, caramelized cashews, fresh mozzarella, sweetened tomatoes, broad beans, mint, chili, and maracuya dressing. This dish was inspired by the quinoa. The idea is to innovate our menu constantly and teach our clients about the variety and diversity of Peruvian dishes. My goal as a Peruvian chef is even greater: to promote the gastronomy from my country in a sophisticated and modern way, without sacrificing traditions and customs of a country so rich in culture. Recently, we have added seven dishes and I’m working on seven more, which will be ready by the start of 2013.

What are some of the inspirations or influences you find in the Houston culinary scene?

What I like the most about Houston is the cultural diversity and how open people are to taste new flavors. This makes Houston an attractive city with different restaurant options. It’s a city with a competitive scene, which means you are able to find different interesting flavors and aromas.

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