Eat My Words

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

A Twirl Around The Pearl

If there’s anything the first few years at San Antonio’s The Pearl has shown us, it’s that giving a fresh new face to an iconic Texas landmark really can revive a once dilapidated part of town, if not a whole city. This 23-acre sight along the north side of the San Antonio River was originally established in the 1880s as the Pearl Brewing Company and endured a storied history lasting more than a century. But in recent years, it’s undergone a complete renovation. We’ve seen the Culinary Institute of America plant one of its satellite locations here with a Latin-inspired curriculum and NAO, its very own restaurant featuring a rotation of resident chefs under Executive Chef Geronimo Lopez who cover a whole perspective of Latin-American flavors. The Pearl hosts a handful of local retailers as well as a sprawling weekend farmers’ market and a slew of seasonal festivals. And perhaps most appetizing are the handful of San Antonio-based chefs who have opened such celebrated restaurants as Il Sogno and Sandbar, from Chef Andrew

Chicken Mole Sopa at La Gloria Ice House

Weissman, and La Gloria Ice House, from Chef Johnny Hernandez. And now there’s a whole second phase of flavors to try. Last Thursday night, the Pearl hosted a special media tasting of some of the development’s newest additions. (And we happened to indulge in a few nearby excursions as well.)

The Granary  — A counter-service BBQ joint by day, but a brew pub and full service restaurant serving composed barbcue-inspired plates by night. (Think Szechuan duck leg and Moroccan lamb shoulder.) This turn-of-the-century home at The Pearl is where, no matter the time of day, you can be sure that brothers/owners TIm and Alex Rattray will be smoking

House-made Pastrami at The Granary

some type of meat—whether a whole butchered grass-fed cow from Sabinal, or a thick hunk of Niman Ranch pork. The day I visited, they shared a steaming morsel of freshly-smoked pastrami that was so good it almost made me cry. You’ll also find an assortment of sides including crispy grit fritters (yum) and the brothers’ own version of Texas Toast griddled with a smear of beef tallow and served with a side of butter infused with beef drippings straight from the smoker. (Side of Lipitor recommended.) And the beers are pretty good as well—especially the Belgian style Rye Saison and the dark and stormy Brown Ale. But I really wouldn’t leave here without swirling a mug of homemade root beer made with pure cane sugar and sarsaparilla.

Boiler House — A self-proclaimed Texas Grill and Wine Garden, the Boiler House is every bit as Texas-sized in flavor as it is in its expansive two-story, 6,000 square-foot space. (Most of its significant architectural features have been preserved from its original function as the boiler house of the Pearl Brewery.) From the owners of Max’s Wine Dive, we wouldn’t expect anything less. Chef

Boiler House Executive Chef James Moore demonstrating a steak preparation

James Moore is a San Antonio native who has found his true home at the helm of this ranch-style restaurant. You’ll find wild game, Gulf seafood and myriad local ingredients, but their specialty, as you might expect, is steak. As if the grilled-to-perfection Prime grade beef isn’t enough to whet your appetite, Moore also serves up an assortment of compound butters including a bone marrow-infused version that he maintains adds “just a bit of unctuousness.”

Arcade Midtown Kitchen — Set to open in early 2013, make no mistake that this approachable-yet-sophisticated American kitchen concept is named for the architectural feature of a succession of arches along the exterior of a building. (In other words, if you’re thinking this is the place to bring your pre-teen for a maze of loud and obnoxious video games, you’re out of luck.) San Antonio native—by way of Atlanta, Santa Fe and Los Angeles—Chef/Owner Jesse

Lobster Sweet Potato Taco from Arcade Midtown Kitchen

Perez offered a walk-through of his unfinished restaurant interior and also gave a tasty preview of his menu. From the two helpings I had of lobster and sweet potato tacos wrapped in herb-masa crepes with corn-chile-citrus sauce, I’d say we’re in for a sensational treat when Perez officially opens the breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot at the end of January.

Bakery Lorraine  - Just a few clicks down the road from The Pearl is the new Bakery Lorraine, perhaps the only traditional French-style bakery in San Antonio. (At least that I’ve been able to find.) It’s the product of two former Napa Valley Bouchon Bakeryalums-turned-Rackspace software company employees who just couldn’t shake their love of baking. As co-owner Anne Ng says, “Once you’re bitten by the baking bug, that’s

Sweet treats from Bakery Lorraine

it.” Here you’ll find ‘the real deal’ in croissants, eclairs, macarons and tarts as well as an assortment of muffins cookies and focaccia sandwiches. From the smiles Ng and baker/co-owner Jeremy Mandrell beam from their petite little kitchen in this cheerful grey-hued craftsman-style home on East Grayson, it’s clear these two don’t miss their software gigs one little bit.

The Brooklynite  - Also, a short distance away, this sleek pre-Prohibition style craft cocktail bar popped up with little warning. Yet its word-of-mouth buzz from the loyal fans of craft bartender Jeret Peña (a James Beard nominee) has quickly made the Brooklynite the place for the see-and-be-seen crowd. Though happy hour is hopping with the post-work crowd, it‘s the late night crowd that brings an alluring verve to this place. You’ll find everything from Old Fashions and Vieux Carrés to the goulish sounding Corpse Revivers and Blood and Sands, but having recently returned from a trip to Ireland, I opted for the boozy Tipperary with Irish whiskey, sweet vermouth and green chartreuse. Reservations strongly recommended.

- Jessica Dupuy

 

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