In recent years, it seems the typical request for the house Chardonnay has been overshadowed by the spritzy and clean Pinot Grigio and the sometimes-citrusy, sometimes-grassy Sauvignon Blanc. It’s no real surprise with the overpowering buttery qualities a number of low- to mid-range Chardonnays have taken on; often as a result of too much time in oak barrels. With the average Chardonnay’s lack of vibrance and character, the Sauvignon Blanc in particular began piquing the interest of white wine drinkers for its variety of flavor based on origin.

Sauvignon Blancs from California, for instance, can range with citrus-y to melon-y fruit tones; traditional Loire Valley styles exhibit spicy, floral, and mineral nuances; and in New Zealand, this little green grape takes on everything from tropical and herbaceous characters to grassy, asparagus flavors depending on where the grapes derive along the narrow South Island. Bottom line, there’s a wide variety of adventure in the world’s selection of Sauvignon Blanc. And while you still risk the chance of getting a flat note here and there, the range of styles from this clean, crisp, and fresh white grape have earned it a respectable seat at the table.

So how do they fare in Texas? Not too bad actually. A number of wineries have been successful with this relatively versatile grape producing wines with floral, citrus-y, and even mild honeysuckle undertones. In fact, one Texas winery in particular has done so well with it that it has earned this month’s Texas Wine of the Month: Spicewood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, 2008.

According to Ashley Gaas, sommelier for Austin’s upscale 6^th Street gastro pub, Parkside, this Sauvignon Blanc rates as one of her top picks among Texas wines for its clean, crisp acidity. “It has a nice mineral structure bonded with citrus and hazelnut flavors and just a touch of honeydew melon,” says Gaas. “Its round creamy finish really sets it apart from most Sauvignon Blancs.”

Aged in stainless steel for 6 months, the 2008 is a blend of 93.5% Sauvignon Blanc and 6.5% Semillon, all from Spicewood Vineyards, which is located near Marble Falls in southern Burnet County. Inspired by Parkside’s acclaimed fresh seafood raw bar, Gaas suggests reaching for this light-on-the-palate wine with pan-seared scallops or an iced tin of fresh oysters. “It has wonderful honey and grapefruit aromas and is perfect for hot summer days,” says Gaas.

Founded by Ed and Madeleine Manigold in the early 1990s, Spicewood Vineyards turned a lot of heads with its Sauvignon Blanc in 1998 when it earned a prestigious Silver Medal from the Los Angeles County Fair as well as a Silver Medal in the International Eastern Wine Competition. In 2007, the winery changed hands and is now run by Ron Yates who is currently harvesting a bumper crop of 2010 grapes. “We’re really excited for what our entire crop is looking like this year,” says Yates. “We’ll have a 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ready to go fairly quickly and I’m anxious to see how it will stand up to the 2008.”

Unfortunately, you’ll have to visit the tasting room to nab one of these bottles, but for about $18, it’s a fantastic treat to round out a day in this Texas heat.

Winery: Spicewood Vineyards

Retail Price: $17.99

Availability: Winery Tasting Room

Tagged: Ashley Gaas, Parkside, Ron Yates, Spicewood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Texas Monthly Texas Wine of the Month