Eat My Words

Friday, March 4, 2011

Blood, Bones & Butter: Read It

Gabrielle Hamilton owns Prune Restaurant, in New York. You might have even eaten there. A tiny, awkward place in the East Village. Very much a stop on the food-lover’s circuit. Well, now she’s written a passionate, pull-out-the-stops, utterly intense memoir of her life as a chef, and I cannot put it down. In fact, I can hardly finish the post for wanting to stop and just finish reading. Before I forget, Hamilton is giving a cooking class at Central Market in Austin at  1 on this Sunday. There were four seats left about 15 minutes ago, so you might want to register fast. And in Dallas on Saturday. Forget that one; there’s a waiting list. But even if you can’t get to one of the classes on her book tour, you can still buy the book, Blood, Bones & Butter, and you definitely should. I can’t quote a long passage (publishers frown on that), but here’s an  excerpt: This is about the “stampede that is Sunday brunch.” “We do a little over two hundred covers on a Sunday in five hours with only thirty seats, if that tells you anything. . . . The kitchen for its part is hunkered down, the two full rails packed with tickets that all look exactly the same because it’s all pancakes, eggs, and bacon . . . . We do not wait patiently while the customer enjoys a section of the New York Times over a nice bowl of homemade granola before firing up his sour cream and caraway omelette. We do not. We are sometimes laying down omelette pans on the flames by the half-dozen, and delivering that many omelettes in as many minutes . . . [on a weekend that adds up to] 1,440 eggs. This is nothing compared to a hotel or even a big restaurant; the only thing that makes it  monstrous is that we are doing it in a kitchen the size of a Lincoln Continental.” There’s so much more–her relationship with her semi-nutty, glamorous French mother, and her husband, and her new baby. . . all honest and bare and in your face. You’ll understand more about what it means to be a chef and own a restaurant after reading this book than any other book I can think of, and there are a lot of cheffy books out there. It’s the distaff side of Tony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential.  Random House. $26 list price.

One Response to “Blood, Bones & Butter: Read It”


  1. Charter Bus DC says:

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    A good restaurant runs on hunger — not just that of its customers, but also of its owners, who put in 18-hour days obsessing that every single detail must be as perfect as possible. But although the hunger of the diners is pretty simple to figure out, that which drives the owners is remarkably diverse.

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