Salt Lick Cellars Sangiovese Reserve, 2009

Sangiovese, one of Italy’s great wine grapes. If you’ve dined at any run of the mill Italian joint, you’ve probably encountered it in some form or fashion as it is used to make Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the blends popularized by the American market as “Super Tuscans,” just to name a few. The grape itself has more than 15 clones found throughout Italy, all with different names, so it may be hard to identify off the bat, but it you familiarize yourself with the Italian regions, you’ll soon see Sangiovese is, well, all over the place.

When it’s young, the wines tend to be a little light with hints of bright fruit, strawberry and a little spice. When aged in oak for a while, they can grow in depth and complexity.

But perhaps more importantly, Sangiovese does really well in Texas.

This month’s Texas Wine of the Month selection comes with the help of sommelier Richard Arnold, of Houston’s La Colombe d’Or. Originally an Austin native, Arnold nurtured a growing passion for wine while managing wine lists in Colorado restaurants Potager and Larkspur as well as notable Texas locales such as Del Frisco’s, Vic & Anthony, and Pappas Brothers. He was also one of the first to help open Spanish-inspired Malaga in Austin with Jay Knepp and Jennifer Robin, both of whom are now with the wine program at the Salt Lick Cellars in Driftwood.

That’s right, as in Salt Lick Barbecue. If you haven’t been out for the legendary, family-style barbecue classic in a while, you may want to make the trek. You’ll soon notice that vineyards surround the entire property.

In recent years the Salt Lick has planted warm-climate grapes that seem to love the Texas heat including Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Sangiovese and Syrah. They’ve also made relationships in the High Plains to bolster their grape inventory. Though currently in small production, the Salt Lick has slowly begun releasing wines under their own label with the help of noted Texas winemakers including Ed Auler of Fall Creek Vineyards (Tempranillo), Dave Reilly of Duchman Family Vineyards (Texas Hill Country Red and Barbecue Red), and Kim McPherson of McPherson Cellars (Sangiovese Reserve).

Salt Lick Cellars Sangiovese Reserve, 2009 Label

Still in its infancy, Salt Lick Cellars has developed a handful of Texas wines including BBQ Red, BBQ White, Texas Hill Country Red, and Sangiovese Reserve 2009, which just happens to be our selection for Texas Wine of the Month.

As we slowly (very slowly) begin to move from the summer months into fall, Arnold’s selection comes with the wholehearted hope that before long we’ll all be sipping wine on the back porch before the sun has set. This particular wine has the chops to be enjoyed as a simple sipper, but also a fair bit of acidity to be perfect with food, namely barbecue.

For this particular wine, Knepp and Salt Lick owner Scott Roberts have paired up with Kim McPherson to use grapes from the Sagmor Vineyards in the High Plains. “This wine has just the right weight, acidity levels and similar fruit profile of a good Chianti level Sangiovese, which is way more than we can say coming from the California-Italian version of the varietal,” says Arnold who suggests pairing this with grilled meats and fresh salads with vine ripened tomatoes, or bright Italian dishes with stewed tomatoes to balance the acidity of the wine.

Currently, Salt Lick wines are only sold at the Salt Lick Cellars, and this reserve Sangiovese will run you about $36, but if you drink this along with a plate of Salt Lick barbecue, you’ll find the trip, the food, and the wine are well worth the effort. And before too long, you’ll see these wines at a retail store near you. “These wines are worth getting to know right now,” says Arnold. “Look for them to make a splash in years to come in Texas wine!”

Winery: Salt Lick Cellars

Price: $36

Availability: Salt Lick Cellars

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Dave Reilly, Duchman Family Vineyards, Ed Auler, Fall Creek Vineyards, Jay Knepp, Jennifer Robin, Jessica Dupuy, Kim McPherson, La Colombe D'Or, McPherson Cellars, Richard Arnold, Salt Lick barbecue, Salt Lick Cellars, Salt Lick Cellars Sangiovese Reserve 2009, Scott Roberts