Texas Wine of the Month: Becker Vineyards Viognier 2011
Texas Wine of the Month: Becker Vineyards Viognier 2011
It’s not easy moving to a state like Texas when you’re from the east coast. You have to learn to say “y’all,” you have to temper your taste buds to copious amounts of Tex-Mex and barbecue, and you have to break in a pair of boots. But if you take up residence in the Lone Star State and you already happen to be a Master Sommelier, then you had better get up to speed on Texas wine. That’s exactly what Melissa Monosoff has been doing for the past month or two while acclimating to her new digs in the Big D. Monosoff is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and has honed her skills at the top restaurants in Philadelphia as a cook, sommelier, bartender and beverage director.
In 2009 and 2010 both Philadelphia magazine and Main Line magazine named her “Best Sommelier.” Wine & Spirits magazine recognized her as one of America’s “Best Young Sommeliers” and she was a James Beard Foundation nominee for “Outstanding Wine Service” in 2011. Having recently joined Pioneer Wine, a distributer in Dallas, I’d say Texas is lucky to welcome her to her new home. But the Philadelphia native is no stranger to Texas. She’s been a part of The Texas Sommelier Conference (TexSom) for a few years now and has come to love what Texas has to offer—especially the company of the six other Master Sommeliers in the state.
“Where I lived in Philly I was all by my lonesome being the only Master Sommelier in the state,” says Monosoff. “But here it is amazing to have such a great support system and team. Masters like Guy Stout have laid the ground work, while [Drew Hendricks] and James [Tidwell] have set a new precedent with wine events like TexSom all together making Texas what it what it is today in the wine world. I am extremely proud to be part of this “next generation!”
As the 7th Master Sommelier in the state—and the 2nd female at that—Monosoff was up to the challenge of selecting a Texas wine worthy of “Wine of the Month” status. Her palate is fresh to Texas wine, making her first impressions particularly unique compared to other wine professionals who have been tasting the evolution of wines here for so long. And what does the think?
Melissa Monosoff, Texas' 7th Master Sommelier
“Intuitively when I think of Texas and grape growing, I think of a dry, warm climate and long growing seasons. But how well that plays out here is unbelievable,” says Monosoff. “The quality of the wines I have tasted so far and the range of grape varieties is impressive. I have been seeing wines made from traditional Spanish, Portuguese and Southern French varieties making it really fun I can’t wait to try them all.”
With more than 250 wineries in the state, she’s got a long way to go. But in the mean time, she has been wooed by one wine in particular, this month’s wine of the month: Becker Vineyards Viognier 2011.
“This wine is Viognier at its best,” says Monosoff. “It is not an easy grape to get right and strike the perfect balance of fruit, acidity and alcohol. But Becker achieves this in spades and it’s honestly one of the best Viogniers I have ever had! [Normally,] I would never consider Viognier a wine I would want to drink all summer long, but this wine has changed my mind.”
Changing minds is something Becker Vineyards has been doing for a long time; particularly about Texas wine. Owner Dr. Richard Becker and his team have spent years making the very best of what Texas grapes have to offer. Sure, there are times when they use California fruit for some of their different wines, but the overall motivation has been to steadily grow the Texas wine industry. This 2011 Viognier is a perfect example of how they are doing that. Made of grapes from Bingham Family Vineyards and Reddy Vineyards, there are beautiful floral, honeysuckle notes on this wine as well as a little spray of lemon zest on the nose that may lead you to think that it may have a little sweetness to it. But when you taste it, there’s a searingly dry character, with great balance and little to no sugar at all—confirming Monosoff’s overall assessment of this grape from Southern France as one that makes wines that lend some fun and intrigue.
“Viognier produces a full bodied, dry, richly floral wine that pairs with many of the same foods as a great chardonnay. I would sip this wine on its own on a hot summer day or pair it with succulent seafood like shrimp and scallops on the grill or lobster with butter,” says Monosoff “Viognier loves the natural sweetness of seafood. I went to my first crawfish boil recently and I think it would really work with those spices too! It also lends itself well to roasted chicken and rich and creamy sauces on pasta or fish.”
Wine: Becker Vineyards Viognier 2011
Retail Price: ~$14
Availability: HEB, Randall’s Central Market, Whole Foods, Spec’s, Twin Liquors
