Eat My Words

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Austin Food & Wine Festival announces finalized schedule

Yesterday, the Austin Food & Wine Festival announced the finalized schedule for the 2013 festival, which takes place April 26-28 at Auditorium Shores.

The culinary event features a plethora of seminars including Drinking Vinegars & Shrubs, Classic Desserts in a Modern Kitchen, Qui Ingredients, It’s Tailgate Time In Texas, and numerous others. The Festival’s Facebook page also announced the addition of three celebrity chefs to the talent lineup: Graham Elliot, Brian Malarkey, and Barton Seaver.

Tickets to the AF&W Festival are $850 for the Savor Pass – which includes the Taste of Texas Kickoff Event, the Rock Your Taco Showdown, and a myriad of VIP perks – or $250 for the Taste Pass, which includes the option to purchase individual tickets to the Taste of Texas Kickoff and/or Rock Your Taco Showdown.

For more information, visit the Austin Food & Wine Festival’s website.

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Friday, January 18, 2013

Paul Qui to Curate Selection of Eateries for SXSW

Paul Qui

Austin’s South by Southwest (SXSW) festival is embracing a much more prominent culinary element this year with SouthBites, a curated line-up of gourmet food trucks and trailers. Paul Qui, executive chef/owner of East Side King and the yet-to-be-opened Qui, is in charge of orchestrating the new event.

According to the SXSW website, “SouthBites is operating for all nine days of SXSW (March 8-16), open to the public and located right across the road from the Austin Convention Center. It will be an essential destination for thousands of hungry music, film, and interactive fans and industry players.”

“SXSW has always been an innovator in music, film, and technology, and I’m excited about being part of the food aspect,” Qui told TEXAS MONTHLY. Details are still being pieced together, and Qui said that the food truck/trailer line-up hasn’t been finalized quite yet.

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Thursday, January 10, 2013

Doug Guller to open Chicago House on January 23 in Austin

As if buying a Texas town wasn’t enough, restaurateur Doug Guller is at it again. The hospitality mogul plans to open Chicago House, a craft beer-focused bar, on January 23 at 607 Trinity Street in Austin.

Doug Guller

According to the press release, “The bar will feature an extensive collection of craft beers and will be a premier destination for a choice micro-brew on the most popular street in Austin. The space at 609 Trinity Street, home to Flashpoint Recording Studio since 1989, will be renovated into a comfortable lounge with a rooftop overlooking Sixth Street.”

“We’re excited about bringing this concept to the East 6th Street neighborhood,” Guller told TEXAS MONTHLY. “We’ve restored a beautiful, historic building on Trinity Street that captures the feel of an American craft ale house. We’ll have two cask ales, along with 18 other unique offerings from all over the U.S. We’ll be introducing new beers weekly, maybe even some daily!”

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Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Justin Timberlake sets his eyes on Austin barbecue scene

According to a story in the Atlanta Business Chronicle, a new barbecue restaurant is coming to Austin in 2013. And this is no ordinary barbecue restaurant; it’s backed by Justin Timberlake. Yup, that Justin Timberlake… The Austin restaurant is part of a 30-city nationwide expansion plan for Southern Hospitality, a Memphis-style barbecue restaurant that first opened in New York in 2007.

Southern Hospitality BBQ Sauce

Restaurant locations in Atlanta and Denver are currently in the works, and Chicago and Austin are planned to open in 2013.

A different story (published last August) in Rolling Stone claims Ryan Tedder, the frontman for OneRepublic, also has his hands in the project and intends to bring the restaurant chain to “Denver, Nashville, Dallas, Austin, Houston, New Orleans, Atlanta, Phoenix, Palo Alto, and Washington, D.C.”

“I have been involved with Southern Hospitality BBQ in New York for some time, and I’m looking forward to taking this relationship to the next level,” Tedder said at the time.

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Friday, December 7, 2012

Deana Saukam on Paul Qui, Engagement, Traveling, Eating, and What’s to Come in 2013

Every king needs his queen, and for Paul Qui – chef/owner of East Side King and winner of Top Chef Texas – that queen is Deana Saukam. Deana, better known for her alter ego the East Side Queen, has been by Paul’s side ever since his whirlwind rise to fame. After Paul’s win on Top Chef Texas, the couple has been traveling the world, planning new restaurant projects, and soaking up nothing but love from the Austin culinary community.

Not only has this been a great year for Qui; it has also been a banner year for Deana, who got engaged to Paul in New York earlier this year. The stylish, bubbly Deana talks with TEXAS MONTHLY about her year of traveling and eating, working in fashion, and what’s to come in 2013.

This has been a big year for both you and Paul. Tell me about your world travels and what you two have been up to recently.

We had a great year of travel. It was a whirlwind, beginning with the Top Chef Texas finale in Vancouver, British Columbia, with non-stop travel from February through November. The first set of trips – Louisville to London – was taken without any stops back to Austin in between cities. We went to Louisville, Kentucky for the Kentucky Derby and to visit Ed Lee, a contestant on Top Chef, and his wife, Diane; New York for the James Beard Awards. Paul won this year in his category, so that was a definite bonus; Paris to wine, dine, and shop; London for more delicious food, shopping, and to see the Snow White and the Huntsman premiere. We also had dinner from Heston Blumenthal, St. John, and Hakkasan; then, we went to Tokyo for more R&R. Highlights from that trip included Jiro, Tsukiji Fish Market, Ramen Inoue (a ramen stand in Tsukiji), the Tsukemen ramen in Tokyo Station, shopping in Ginza, and all the little izakayas next to the train stations. I also fell in love with MOS Burger, since I have a soft spot for really good burger chains, like In-n-Out. We went to Copenhagen for the MAD2 food symposium, hosted by Renee Redzepi. The whole conference was an incredible experience, and I have it on my list to go back every year. Copenhagen is so beautiful, and everyone is so friendly and fashionable, and the weather was amazing while we were there. We celebrated both our birthdays in Spain, starting in Madrid, on to Marques de Riscal, then San Sebastian, with a day trip to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. During this trip, we did so much and had such a great time. We ate such amazing food in all the places we went. We went to Manila, Philippines to see where Paul grew up and experience all the cuisine and culture that really influence him. The food was delicious, and Paul’s family is really great. Paul had to make an appearance to promote the Emmys, so we hung out in LA for a bit. Other trips we took included Chicago; New York City; Las Vegas; Kansas City; Seattle; Vancouver; Portland; Aspen; Washington, DC; Columbus, Ohio; and Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. I hope I haven’t forgotten any places we visited this year!

Since returning from our last trip, we’ve been working on opening East Side King at Hole in the Wall and Paul’s upcoming flagship restaurant, Qui, which is planned to open in spring 2013. Also in development is a fifth East Side King location on South Lamar. We are taking a break from traveling so we can focus on East Side King and Qui, among other side projects.

What was the most interesting or surprising culinary experience you had on your trips? Any crazy foods or restaurants you were exposed to?

I would have to say that my top places to eat this year were Copenhagen, San Sebastian, and Tokyo. Every place we go to is surprising and interesting in its own way. I am a pretty adventurous eater. I eat pretty much anything and everything, so there wasn’t anything that was too shocking. They did serve us live tiny shrimp that jumped out of mason jars at Noma and larvae and ants during the MAD2 Food Symposium, provided by the Nordic Food Lab. The ants have the same chemical make up as lemongrass, so they were demonstrating how these naturally found proteins can be substituted for certain flavors. The “craziest” restaurant I ate at this year would have to be the meal we had with Nathan Myhrvold in his Cooking Lab. It wasn’t “crazy” per se, and it’s not an actual restaurant, but the entire meal was definitely extremely interesting, and the food was pretty much perfect. I was in awe during the entire meal. I am a bit of a nerd, so being around so much sophisticated laboratory equipment while eating an amazing scientifically prepared meal with a genius was pretty intense. Also, since it is not an actual restaurant, the experience felt even more special.

From what I understand you, like Paul, had quite an interesting culinary upbringing.

My mother is a really great cook, and my dad can eat a lot of food. Like a lot of food. It is pretty amazing. We’re Cambodian, so she would cook a lot at home. Cambodian food is very similar to Vietnamese food, but with influences from Thai, Chinese, and French cuisine. My family loves food, so we’re always eating and talking about food. We also have family in France, so we would travel there in the summers when I was growing up and, of course, eat everything.

How have you been involved in the development of Paul’s new restaurants?

I have been sitting in and giving input on the design development meetings for Qui, and I’ll also be handling all of their PR and Marketing. We are working with a tailor to custom some aspects of the server uniforms, and since I graduated with a degree in fashion design, I’m pretty excited to be a part of the design process. I have been working closely with Paul and June Rodil, Qui’s general manager, to develop the look and feel of Qui. For the East Side Kings, I handle their PR, marketing, social media, catering, and events. I also help out in other ways when I can. I stay out of the kitchen, but I am a great taste-tester.

What do you think are some of the nuances or details that make Paul’s restaurants successful?

Besides the food, which is obviously the key element, the nuances or details that make Paul’s restaurants successful is hard to pin down exactly. I think it mainly comes down to personality. Although we are all serious about the food, we still want to have fun and don’t take ourselves too seriously. For example, we’ve incorporated yellow from Peelander-Z to paint a few of our locations, which I love. I feel as though that comes across in the food and the whole East Side King look and feel. Kind of like a pirate ship. For Qui, we’ve got a few surprises that will keep the vibe alive. Another element is the service. For East Side King, although we’re serving from a food trailer, we always try to stress the service aspect as much as we can.  We want to be able to take care of our guests and make sure that they’re happy, while maintaining the East Side King atmosphere.

What are some of your favorite Austin restaurants, eateries, or bars to hit up? Any dish recommendations I should know about?

I’m still a fan of the East Side dive bars, and I could eat Asian food every day. I’ve been taste-testing so much ramen and other East Side King dishes these past few weeks that my brain is foggy for recommendations right now. I do really like going to Ramen Tatsu-Ya, Titaya’s Thai Cuisine, Tam Deli & Cafe, Uchiko, Second Bar + Kitchen, and Hopdoddy’s, to name a few places.

Are there any chefs or restaurateurs that you really admire in Austin?

I think Bryce Gilmore and Jack Gilmore are great. I love the father and son aspect. I love what Aaron Franklin is doing, and what a nice and humble guy he is despite his launch to barbecue fame. Tyson Cole, of course. Paul Qui isn’t bad either.

What are some dishes you like to make at home? Do you have any staple or go-to dishes?

To be honest, I do not do too much home cooking. Since we’ve been traveling so much this year, neither one of us has really cooked too much at home, except for the one time we hosted a dinner party and the time we threw a holiday party. One of my goals for 2013 is to cook more at home.

You have a strong knowledge of fashion. I know you’ve got your hands quite full, but do you ever think of doing a business or concept with that?

I actually just started as the fashion stylist for a new magazine, DAM – Downtown Austin Magazine – and the first issue debuts in January 2013. We just wrapped our first shoot yesterday, the same day that East Side King at Hole in the Wall opened. It was a little hectic juggling both projects, but in the end, I’m extremely proud of what both East Side King and the DAM team accomplished in the same day. I love that I am able to break away from the restaurant scene for a bit when I’m working on styling for the magazine. It’s nice and therapeutic. I would also love to own my own store one day or do something with design, but I don’t have any immediate plans for that yet.

What about a food concept? It only seems appropriate that the East Side Queen would have her own project.

I would love to do something with food as well, particularly baking or desserts, but for right now, I do not plan on opening any restaurants of my own. I am no chef and am much more useful when I stay out of the kitchen. I like cooking and baking, but just as a hobby. Maybe one day!

In the midst of all the madness of this year, you got engaged. Congratulations! Would you be willing to tell me about the proposal?

Thanks! It’s kind of a long story, but basically, the ring arrived while we were in New York for Paul’s City Grit Pop-up Restaurant. The hotel delivered the FedEx box with the ring in it to me in our hotel room, and I knew something was up. I called my best friend, Betsy Granger, to tell her that I was pretty sure this box had the ring in it, and she pretended not to know that it was actually the ring, although she had been helping Paul with the ring the whole time. When I called Paul to tell him a package had arrived for him at the hotel, he sounded really nervous and told me not to open it. He called me back five minutes later and asked me to bring him the package to the kitchen, saying it was an ingredient he needed. It was all really strange. Later that evening after service, Paul proposed to me in our hotel room. We left for Spain from New York a few days later to celebrate our birthdays, and it was the best trip!

How long did it take you, after you and Paul started dating, to realize that he was gifted? Did you ever envision anything like what you guys have created?

I met Paul nine years ago at Uchi through mutual friends, so I had seen his rise in the ranks at the restaurant. I never really paid much attention to it though and considered him to be “an acquaintance who was a chef from Uchi.” I always knew he was talented, but after we started dating, I realized how driven he was. When they were opening Uchiko, I knew that Paul had crafted some really remarkable dishes. Maybe I was blinded by love, but I really felt like Paul was really on to something, to put it simply. I have always wanted to build something with my significant other, but I never knew that it would be what it is today. I feel really blessed and proud of what we’ve got going on. Of course, there’s still more to do and always things to work on, but I’m pretty happy with what’s going on right now.

What’s next for you guys? What are you looking forward to in 2013?

Up next is Qui Restaurant on East Sixth Street, a fifth East Side King on South Lamar – both in spring 2013 – more work on East Side King at Hole in the Wall, and hopefully more projects that are currently in the idea/discussion phase right now. We also need to maintain and continue to develop the current East Side Kings. Oh, and planning a wedding, possibly in Iceland! I am very excited to see what will happen next. I look forward to being home more so we can get things done, but I also hope we can squeeze a few trips in 2013.

(For more on Qui and Saukum, read today’s TM Daily Post piece about East Side King and the Hole in the Wall.)

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Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Thanksgiving Dishes from Renowned Texas Chefs

Turkey Day is upon us, and an abundance of families will be cooking fall-centric dishes at home tomorrow. In case you’re looking to scrounge up some last-minute Thanksgiving recipes, here are a few offerings from a handful of talented Texas chefs.

Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Absinthe Crème Fraîche from Jason Dodge of Péché 

For the soup:
½ medium-sized sugar pie pumpkin, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
2 shallots, peeled and quartered
3 cups chicken stock
¼ cup maple syrup
2 sprigs fresh thyme

In a large bowl toss pumpkin with thyme, salt and pepper, and shallots in olive oil until thoroughly coated. Place on a medium sheet tray. Roast at 400 degrees until slightly caramelized. Let cool before handling. Heat stock to a simmer and add pumpkin, shallots, and maple syrup. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Adjust seasoning to taste.

For the crème fraîche:
1 cup crème fraîche
½ cup Pernod Absinthe

Reduce absinthe by ½ cup in a small sauté pan over high heat. Fold into crème fraiche. In a serving bowl, ladle soup and spoon crème fraiche on top. Garnish with pumpernickel or Pecorino Romano croutons.

Maple Bread Pudding from John Bates, chef/owner of Noble Pig Sandwiches

“The reason I love bread pudding is because it reminds of the holidays. It is good in so many ways and reminds me of family,” Bates says.

Maple Bacon Bread Pudding
loaf day-old bread
6 cups half and half
1 cup sugar
1 cup maple syrup
¾ teaspoon breakfast sausage, cured
9 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1 ½ cups bacon, crumbled and crispy

Dice your bread. In a pot add half and half, sugar, maple syrup, and breakfast sausage. Bring the milk up to a simmer and allow the sugar to dissolve and infuse the flavors. In a mixing bowl, add whole eggs and egg yolks. Mix together the eggs and temper the hot milk into eggs. Pour hot custard base over the diced bread and bacon. Allow to soak for thirty minutes and then pack into mason jars. Put jars into a water bath and bake until set in a 350-degree oven. Approximately 45 minutes.

Apple Cheddar Pie from Janina O’Leary, executive pastry chef of TRACE

Cheddar-Cheese Tart shell
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup unsalted butter, cubed
3/4 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
3 tablespoons cold water

Crumble topping:
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons brown sugar
3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

Apple Pie Filling:
6 cups cored, peeled, and thinly sliced crisp apples
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
3/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground allspice

Crust: In a large bowl or food processor  combine flour and salt. Add the butter and, using a pastry cutter, two knives, or your hands, cut the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add grated cheese and toss. Add cold water, by the tablespoon, until a rough dough forms. Gather dough into a ball, flatten into 3/4-inch-thick disk, and tightly wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough into an 11-inch circle about 1/4 inch thick. Transfer dough to a 9-inch pie pan. Turn overhanging dough under itself to form an edge along the top of the pan, and crimp edges. Chill for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line the crust with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the crust is lightly browned — about 15 minutes.

Filling: Add cut apples to a large bowl and toss with lemon juice and zest. In a small bowl, mix sugar, flour, cinnamon, salt, nutmeg, and allspice. Sprinkle the spice mixture over the apples and toss to mix thoroughly. Spoon the apples into the prepared crust.

Crumble topping: In a small bowl using a fork, toss flour, brown sugar, butter, and grated cheddar cheese. Sprinkle the top of the pie with crumble mixture. Place pie in the middle of the oven and bake until the topping is golden brown — 50 to 60 minutes. Cool on a rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Sullivan’s Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict from Thomas Dritsas, corporate executive chef at Sullivan’s Steakhouse

“The Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict is a fun way to repurpose your leftover turkey into a uniquely delicious dish for the whole family to enjoy the next morning,” Dritsas says.

Thanksgiving Eggs Benedict
1 English muffin, split
2 ounces gravy
2-4 ounces turkey slices
2-4 ounces stuffing
2 cups water
1 teaspoon white vinegar
2 jumbo eggs (for poaching)
3 ounces cranberry sauce

Start by heating the turkey, stuffing, and gravy in a microwave until warm throughout. Split the English muffin, then toast and place on a warm plate or platter of choice. Divide stuffing with an ice cream scoop or large spoon and place on top of each side of the English muffin. Top stuffing with slices of reheated turkey and press down on stuffing to level out so the egg will sit on top of the turkey properly. Bring the water and vinegar to a simmer in a small saucepot. Crack 2 eggs, then drop into the simmering water and poach for 2-4 minutes depending on how you like your eggs done. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and drain well on a paper towel to remove liquid. Set one egg on top of the turkey that is on each side of the toasted English muffin. Ladle approximately 1 ounce of gravy over each poached egg. Spoon the cranberry sauce on the plate accompanying the Benedict. Serve immediately.

Braised Short Rib from Olivier Ciesielski, chef of  L’Olivier Restaurant & Bar

“This dish reminds me of my childhood in Burgundy, France. It’s a simple, very rustic dish that my mother used to cook. We ate a nice braised meal almost every week during autumn and the winter,” Ciesielski says.

Braised Short Rib
5 pounds boneless beef short ribs, cut crosswise into 2 inch pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium onions, chopped
5 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 whole tomatoes, crushed
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 sprigs rosemary
1 fresh or dried bay leaf
1 head of garlic, halved crosswise
3 ounces of red wine
5 cups beef stock (demi-glace)
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season short ribs with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large heavy pan oven over medium-high heat. Working in two batches, brown short ribs on all sides, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer short ribs to a plate and reserve.

Add onions, carrots, and celery to pot and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until onions are caramelized, about 5 minutes. Add flour and tomatoes; cook, stirring constantly, until well combined and deep red, 2-3 minutes. Stir in wine, and then add short ribs with any accumulated juices. Bring to a boil, lower heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes. Add all herbs to pot along with garlic and beef stock.  Bring to a boil, cover, and transfer to oven.

Cook until short ribs are tender,  about 2–2 1/2 hours. Transfer short ribs to a platter. Strain sauce from pot into a measuring cup. Spoon fat from surface of sauce and discard; season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in plate with the potato tart with sauce spooned over.

Green Bean Bundles from Patrick Russell, chef of MAX’s Wine Dive Dallas

Green Bean Bundles
Yields 25-30 bundles
2 pounds fresh green beans
1 pound applewood-smoked bacon—thick cut is best
1 cup brown sugar
1 stick butter
1 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 orange
1 garlic clove, finely chopped

Clean green beans by clipping the tip and tails, and removing the string.  Bring salted water to a boil in a large pot. Once boiling, take the green beans and cook for 3 minutes; strain and shock in ice water to cool, repeat until all green beans are cooked. Strain green beans from ice water. In a new pot, boil butter and brown sugar; add soy sauce, garlic, and the juice of one orange and boil for 3-5 minutes more. Take the bacon and cut the strips in half. Wrap 5-7 green beans per each half, and place into a deep baking pan. Pour sauce over green beans, and let sit overnight. Bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes until bacon is rendered and crispy.

Turkey Gravy from Christina Lee, chef of Central Market Cooking School in Austin 

“I love this recipe because it is easy, tasty, and versatile. I use it to make turkey pot pies, turkey and dumplings, and baked turkey and rice casserole.  It’s also delicious on mashed potatoes,” Lee says.

Easy Turkey Gravy
yields 4 cups
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 cups hot turkey stock
1 tablespoon each of parsley, thyme, sage, and oregano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a medium pot, melt the butter and add the flour.  Whisk continuously until a blond roux has been achieved, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the hot turkey stock 1 cup at a time, whisking to incorporate into the roux. Add the herbs and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Butternut Squash Cheesecake from Michelle Antonishek, executive pastry chef of Bar Mirabeau

Antonishek says this dessert is extra special to her because she made it for husband, Bar Mirabeau’s Executive Chef Bill McGrory, the day Bill asked Michelle to marry him.

Crust
2 cups graham crackers
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup butter, melted

Mix all ingredients together and line cheesecake pan. Bake at 325 degrees for 10 minutes or until golden brown.

Cut two butternut squash in half and place on pan lined with water.  Bake until butternut squash is tender and soft. Scoop out the squash and place in a blender and puree until smooth.Hang in cheesecloth to drain the excess water and moisture.

Butternut Squash Cheesecake
1 pound cream cheese
4.5 ounces sugar
12 ounces squash puree
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1.5 teaspoons nutmeg
1/2 vanilla bean
1/4 teaspoon cloves
6 eggs

Cream the cream cheese, sugar, and spices until smooth on low speed. Add the squash and mix until smooth on slow speed. Add the eggs one at a time scraping after every other egg. Strain and bake in a water bath at 275 degrees until set. (Depending on size: large 10″ cheesecakes, approximately take 1-1.5 hrs.) Serve with whipped cream and candied pecans.

Roasted Green Chile Pecan Dressing from Joe Synatschk, executive chef of Central Market Fort Worth

“This dressing is spicy and crunchy, and pairs well with turkey or pork at Thanksgiving,” Synatschk says.

1 8×8 pan cornbread, crumbled
1 small loaf crusty bread, cubed
3 poblano or hatch chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
1-2 jalapeño peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 cup sweet corn kernels
3/4 cup pecan pieces, toasted
1/2 cup celery, diced
1/2 cup onion, diced
2-3 cups chicken stock
3 tablespoons butter
2 eggs
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
salt and black pepper, to taste.

Allow breads to sit and dry out a bit. Char jalapeños and poblanos. Allow to sit in a bowl covered with plastic for 5 minutes. Peel, seed, and chop peppers, reserving some jalapeño to adjust for spiciness to taste. In a large sauté pan, sweat onions and celery in butter until tender. Add corn and sauté until warmed through.

In a large bowl, combine crumbled corn bread, cubed bread, chile mixture (some reserved), onion mixture, pecans, and half the stock. Stir well to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Add more stock as needed for desired texture. Taste for spiciness, add more chiles as necessary. Stir in beaten eggs and cilantro and place in a large baking dish. Bake at 375 degrees for 30-40 minutes, until set and at an internal temp of 160.

Aji Ham from Rene Ortiz, executive chef of Sway and La Condesa

Whole roasted spiral cut ham from local butcher
Aji dijon glaze (recipe below)
canned pineapple rings
maraschino cherries
toothpicks

Aji Glaze
1 cup dijon mustard
2 cups local honey
1/2 cup Aji Amarillo paste (Peruvian yellow chili found at Mexican food markets)

Glaze method: Place ingredients into a pot and bring to a boil, reserve with a brush to glaze the ham.

Place the ham onto roasting rack. Add the decorative garnish with pineapple first, then the cherry, and stab them with toothpick. Heat the oven to 375 degrees and start the process of basing with the Aji glaze. While the ham is cooking, occasionally add some of the sweet glaze to it. Once the ham is up to temp and the glaze is starting to caramelize, the ham is ready to come out of the oven.

Apple Pie from Laura Sawicki, executive pastry chef of Sway and La Condesa

Pie dough
yields one double crust pie
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons sugar
8 ounces unsalted butter, diced
about 1/2 cup ice water

In a food processor, mix flour, salt, and sugar together. Pulse to evenly distribute. Add the cold, diced butter and pulse several times until the pieces are small and pea-like. Do not over mix! Pulse in the ice water a little at a time, adding up to 1/2 cup, if needed. Pulse until it just comes together. Turn onto a floured table and very gently knead the dough once or twice to bring all the flour together. Dough should be shaggy and loosely incorporated. Divide the dough into two pieces and form into a flattened round disk. Wrap dough and place in refrigerator overnight.

Filling:
7-8 apples
juice and zest of half a lemon
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
pinch of fresh grated nutmeg
2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
pinch of salt
2 teaspoons unsalted butter

Peel and slice the apples 1/4-inch thick. Toss the apples in a large bowl with all ingredients except the butter. Allow to macerate 5 minutes. When ready to assemble the pie, roll one piece of dough 12-14″ and place into the bottom of a pie tin. Trim the edges so there is a slight overhang. Place all the apples into the pie and dot the filling with butter. Roll remaining piece of dough slightly larger than the first. Fold in half and place over the filling. Unfold the dough to cover the pie completely. Gently tuck the edges of the dough into the pan, pulling the top dough over the bottom. Crimp the edges of the pie and place in the freezer about 30 minutes to firm up. The pie can remain frozen at this point.

Egg wash: Whisk together 1 egg, pinch of salt, and 1/2 teaspoon water

Brush the entire top of the pie with egg wash. Sprinkle liberally with sugar. Cut vent holes in the top of the pie in a decorative manner. This is crucial to allow steam to release. Bake at 400 degrees for 10 minutes, then turn the oven down to 350 degrees and continue to bake for at least one hour. If the pie is getting too dark, turn the oven down to 325 degrees or wrap the edges in aluminum foil. Allow the pie to cool completely before eating.

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Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Sway Announces Opening Day, Releases Highly Anticipated Menus

The wait is over! Sway – a contemporary Thai restaurant on South First Street in Austin – will open its doors on December 9. For those who haven’t followed news about the much-anticipated restaurant, Sway was originally supposed to open this past summer.

For over a year now, the La Condesa team has been releasing tidbits of information about the top secret project. Over the past few months, individuals learned a myriad of details about the restaurant, including the name (Sway, meaning elevated, delicious) and a few of the menu offerings.

Rene Ortiz

The inspiration behind Sway stems from Rene Ortiz’s time of living and working in Sydney, Australia, where he first encountered the modern Thai food movement. Ironically, La Condesa’s owners – Jesse Herman and Delfo Trombetta – also lived in Australia for a time where they too were exposed to the same innovative cuisine.

Back in July, Pat Sharpe and I were invited to try some of the eclectic dishes on Sway’s menu, and even then I believed Sway would become one of the most respected restaurants in the Austin culinary scene – when it finally opened, that is. Here is some of what Pat said about the Sway experience

“As anyone who’s eaten the interior Mexican cuisine at La Condesa knows, Ortiz takes considerable and tasty liberties with traditional recipes. Sway will be no different. A sampling of six dishes from the fifty-odd on the menu was notable for completely avoiding the sweet, spicy, coconut-milky profile of so many Americanized Thai restaurants…”

Pad Kweitio (cispy pork belly, holy basil, eggplant, wok water) at Sway

Some of the dishes to look forward to on the Sway menus include Jungle Curry (red curry of chicken with eggplant and French beans); Rose Apple Stir-Fry (chicken with shiitake, holy basil, and red chili); Steamed Yuzu Pudding Cake (drunken berry, coconut, Sichuan pepper meringue, and avocado sorbet); Jasmine Tea Panna Cotta (lychee, grape, Thai basil, cilantro, and coconut lychee sorbet); and numerous other Thai-inspired offerings.

Reservations are only accepted for parties of eight or more, the family-style feast, or the signature Moo Sway menu. Visit the restaurant’s website, Twitter, or Facebook for information on menus, hours, etc.

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Thursday, November 8, 2012

Austin FOOD & WINE Festival Releases Tickets and Lineup Information

The day has come! Tickets for the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival go on sale today, November 8, at 10 a.m. CST. The Festival, which takes place April 26-28, 2013 at Auditorium Shores and Republic Square Park, will feature a myriad of food and wine events, including hands-on seminars, food, wine, and cocktail tastings, book signings, live music performances, and much more.

The first Austin FOOD & WINE Festival was held in April 2012 – taking the place of the long-standing Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival. Tickets are $850 for a Savor pass and $250 for a Taste pass.

The Savor pass includes priority access to demos, tastings, hands-on events, Grand Tastings, VIP lounges, and the Taste of Texas and Rock Your Taco evening events. Unlike last year, Taste pass holders may also purchase individual tickets for Friday night’s Taste of Texas event ($150) and/or Saturday night’s Rock Your Taco event ($200).

Christina Tosi

A lineup of renowned chefs, talented sommeliers, cocktail experts, and food celebrities will headline the festival, including Marcus Sammuelson, Susan Feniger, Christina Tosi, Tim Love, Paul Qui, Andrew Zimmern, Marc Murphy, and numerous others.

Marcus Sammuelson. Photo taken by Paul Brissman.

The Taste of Texas Kickoff Event at Republic Square Park will feature live music performances by Delta Spirit and Whiskey Shivers and tastings from well-known chefs, including: Tim Byres, chef/co-owner of SMOKE; Jason Dady, chef/owner of Jason Dady Restaurant Group; Ned Elliot, executive chef/owner of Foreign & Domestic; Jodi Elliot, pastry chef/owner of Foreign & Domestic; Aaron Franklin, pitmaster of Franklin Barbecue; Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner, executive chefs/owners of The Pass & Provisions; Sarah Grueneberg, executive chef of Spiaggia; James Holmes, executive chef of Lucy’s Fried Chicken and Olivia; Paul Qui, founder of East Side King; John Russ, executive chef of Lüke; Chris Shepherd, executive chef of Underbelly; Philip Speer, pastry chef of Uchi and Uchiko; Blaine Staniford, executive chef of GRACE; Danny Trace, executive chef of Brennan’s; Tre Wilcox, executive chef of Marquee Grill; Andrew Wiseheart, executive chef of Contigo; and Jamie Zelko, executive chef/owner of Zelko Bistro.

Terrence Gallivan & Seth Siegel-Gardner

At the Rock Your Taco event, a number chefs will compete against each other in creating the “ultimate” taco. Tyson Cole, executive chef of Uchi and winner of last year’s Rock Your Taco competition, will compete against a mix of local and national chefs, including David Bull, executive chef/owner of Congress, Second Bar + Kitchen, and Bar Congress; Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, chef/owners of Animal and Son of a Gun; Susan Feniger, executive chef of Border Grill; Bryce Gilmore, chef/owner of Barley Swine; Tim Love, owner of Love Shack, Lonesome Dove, and Woodshed Smokehouse; Tony Mantuano, chef/partner of Spiaggia; Marc Murphy, executive chef of Landmarc and Ditch Plains; Rene Ortiz, executive chef of La Condesa and Sway; Marcus Samuelsson, chef/owner of Red Rooster Harlem; Laura Sawicki, pastry chef of La Condesa and Sway; Christina Tosi, pastry chef of Momofuku Milk Bar; Jonathan Waxman, chef/owner of Barbuto; and Andrew Zimmern, host of Travel Channel’s Bizarre Foods. There will also be a live music performance by Allen Stone at the event.

Paul Qui

The Rock Your Taco winner will be selected by three judges: Christina Grdovic, publisher of FOOD & WINE, Adam Richman, host of Man vs. Food, and a special guest judge. This year’s lineup also features a mix of sommeliers and mixologists, including Tony Abou-Ganim, Devon BroglieCraig Collins, Anthony Giglio, Ray Isle, Russ Kane, Cathy Mantuano, Bill Norris, Mark Oldman, June Rodil, Jason Stevens, and Nate Wales.

For more information on the fesival or to purchase tickets, please visit the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival website. Follow the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival Twitter and/or Facebook for schedules, details, and news as the festival approaches.

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Friday, November 2, 2012

Five Texas Restaurants Honored in OpenTable’s Top 100 Restaurants with the Most Notable Wine Lists

OpenTable, an online restaurant reservation and review system, recently announced the honorees of the 2012 Top 100 Restaurants with the Most Notable Wine Lists in the United States. The list was determined by the combined opinions of more than 5 million reviews submitted by verified OpenTable diners for more than 15,000 restaurants. According to OpenTable’s press release, American fare restaurants dominated the majority of the list.

Wine wall at MAX’S Wine Dive in Austin.

Five Texas restaurants – Block 7 (Houston), MAX’S Wine Dive (Austin), MAX’S Wine Dive (San Antonio), Mercy Wine Bar (Dallas), and The Tasting Room (Houston) – were featured on the list.

“We were thrilled to learn that three of our locations were honored by OpenTable diners and recognized as having some of the top wine lists in the country. Our company vision statement is ‘To revolutionize the wine experience,’ and our teams work diligently to provide the best possible products from around the world at the lowest prices in the marketplace – both for on-premise consumption and for take-home retail sale,” Jonathan Horowitz, chief brand officer of Lasco Enterprises, LLC, told TEXAS MONTHLY. “We say ‘Thank you’ to all our guests and to OpenTable for this recognition.”

Lasco Enterprises, LLC is the parent company of MAX’S Wine Dive and The Tasting Room.

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Thursday, November 1, 2012

Stay Hungry and Thirsty, My Friends: Austin FOOD & WINE Festival Gears Up for Year Two

After months and months of planning and preparation, The Austin FOOD & WINE Festival made its debut at Auditorium Shores last April. For three long days, attendees swarmed festival grounds – eager to eat, drink, and mingle with a mix of local and national celebrity chefs.

Overall, the first Austin FOOD & WINE Festival garnered relatively favorable reviews, but there were a few criticisms that simply couldn’t be overlooked. Long lines, limited food tastings, ubiquitous dust, and high ticket prices with mediocre perks were some of the main gripes of festival attendees.

As I said in my own review, “If you’re going to make your guests dish out the big bucks, you better deliver… The Austin FOOD & WINE Festival’s libations and eatings were glorious, but if they are going to make the festival worth the ticket prices next year, they better bring all the charms, bells, and whistles and nothing less.”

Earlier this week, C3 Presents‘ Charlie Jones and chef Tim Love reached out to TEXAS MONTHLY to address the criticisms of the 2012 Austin FOOD & WINE Festival and reveal some of the integral changes being made to the 2013 Austin FOOD & WINE Festival, which goes on sale November 8 at 10 a.m. (you heard it here first).

How will ticket prices be structured? Last year there was griping that there were only two price levels, and for the lowest one, $250, you really didn’t get any guarantees of admission. Specifically, will you have individual-session tickets so people can pick and choose?

In addition to offering Taste ($250) and Savor ($850) passes, guests that have purchased the Taste pass will have the option of adding a la carte evening events, including Friday night’s The Taste of Texas event for $150, or Saturday night’s Rock Your Taco competition for $200. The Taste of Texas and Rock Your Taco events will be held on Friday and Saturday nights, respectively, at Republic Square Park.

Will the two venues be Auditorium Shores and Republic Square Park again? Which events at each?

The culinary demos, grand tasting tents, hands-on demos, book signings, and wine tastings will be held at Auditorium Shores, while The Taste of Texas and Rock Your Taco competition will both be held at Republic Square Park.

Tim Love and Charlie Jones at the 2012 Austin FOOD & WINE Festival. Photo taken by Cambria Harkey.

How are you addressing the long lines? Some people stood in line nearly an hour to get into choice celebrity demos.

In an effort to streamline seating, attendees will line up in two separate lines: one designated for Savor pass holders, and the other for Taste pass holders. Fifteen minutes prior to the start of each seminar/demo/event, the Savor line will be allowed in to choose seating. Once that line has dissipated, attendees in the Taste line will be allowed entry. Once the two lines have diminished, seating will be offered on a first-come, first-served basis, with standing room available on the perimeter of tents. We are also expanding the size of the demo tents to accommodate more seating.

Specifically, the lines to get into the big food tents were ridiculous. Will there be more than three food tents?

We are working with wine, spirits, and food vendors to increase the number of offerings during the Grand Tastings. The footprint of the Grand Tasting tent will increase, resulting in an increased amount of restaurants, purveyors, and overall food options. All participants are asked to serve tasting-size portions.

Will there be more shade in general?

Our goal is to improve the overall experience for all attendees and participants. We’ll offer additional seating throughout the grounds at Auditorium Shores, including picnic table-type seats for attendees to enjoy food and beverages, with additional Adirondack-style seating scattered around the park. Again, all tents will be larger and will accommodate more people.

Has the dust issue been addressed?

C3 Presents and the Austin FOOD & WINE team are committed to improving the overall experience for the 2013 Festival. We, too, were disappointed in the 2012 condition of Auditorium Shores. Unfortunately, park maintenance is not under the control of the Festival team, and we tried to make the best of the conditions.

We are grateful to the Austin City Council for approving restoration plans in April 2012 for Auditorium Shores, and look forward to working with them to make the 2013 edition of Austin FOOD & WINE Festival the lush, green epicurean experience we all envision. Thanks to recent efforts by the Parks Department, Auditorium Shores is in great shape with lots of grass.

What about the layout of the festival grounds? There was a lot of grumbling from people trudging back and forth between events at opposite ends of the space.

We learned a lot during our first year of the Festival, and are committed to improving the overall experience for all attendees and participants. Based on event experience and feedback, we will make adjustments to the overall layout and flow of the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival grounds, similar to the changes we have made every year at Austin City Limits (ACL).

How did attendance break down last year between Austin and out-of-town guests?

Approximately forty-nine percent of 2012 Austin FOOD & WINE Festival attendees were from Austin and the greater metro area, while thirty-six percent of attendees were Texas residents, and fifteen percent of attendees came in from out-of-state. These figures are actually very similar to the stats for the Austin City Limits (ACL) Festival, so we feel like we’re on track to establish this as a nationally recognized event. It has always been our goal to create a cultural event that lasts a long time and we will continue to evolve programming and overall guest experience.

How did Austin stack up, attendance-wise, against other FOOD & WINE-sponsored festivals?

(Christina Grdovic, publisher of FOOD & WINE magazine, addressed this question) We were very pleased with the attendance at the first annual Austin FOOD & WINE Festival. Like all the festivals FOOD & WINE is involved with, many events were sold out and there was a huge demand for the wine and food talent. What was so striking about the audience at the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival was how engaged they were. The audience was very knowledgeable and excited about meeting the chefs, mingling with the wine experts, listening to the music, and generally being at the festival.

One thing that surprised me about the chef lineup was that they all seemed to be genuinely passionate about the Austin culinary scene. Do you seek out chefs who are familiar with the city before you invite them? In other words, how do you recruit for the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival lineup?

We chose talent based on several different factors, including passion for the Austin and Texas culinary scenes and diversity of styles. Of course, we like to recruit people that have an interest in what’s going on in Austin, and we’ve been overwhelmed with how enthusiastic chefs, wine, and spirits professionals from around the country are about the vibrant culinary scene in Texas.

Tyson Cole, Tim Love, and Charlie Jones at the 2012 Austin FOOD & WINE Festival. Photo taken by Cambria Harkey.

Are there any chefs that you want to bring back in 2013?

More than half of the 2013 talent line-up is new, featuring a mix of familiar faces and some of Texas’ brightest culinary stars. And the returning talent on the lineup had such a great time in Austin, they wanted to come back again. We received enthusiastic feedback from attendees about the culinary and beverage line-up in 2012, and are super excited for many of the participants to come back next year.

Based on the feedback you’ve received, what do you feel were the most successful events at the 2012 festival? Are there ones you feel could have used some improvement?

We received a lot of positive feedback from attendees and participants about the first-year festival, and intend to continue working on all aspects of programming to make sure that Austin FOOD & WINE Festival continues to evolve year after year. The hands-on demos and Rock Your Taco were fan favorites, and we heard countless anecdotes that people loved the interaction and accessibility to the chefs.

Throughout your planning and organizing, how do you make sure the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival remains Austin-centric? In other words, how do you keep Austin culinary traditions like food trailers, local farm cuisine, snout-to-tail consumption, etc. alive while inviting outside chefs and culinary talents from New York.

In our opinion, the recipe for success at any festival is a mix of local, regional, and national chef, sommelier, and mixologist talent. Our goal in creating the Austin FOOD & WINE program is to create an event that would offer Austinites the chance to experience food and meet chefs and culinary personalities they might not otherwise be able to experience, while attracting tourists that want to come to Austin to experience the city’s unique culture, music, and cuisine.

And in the spirit of Austin’s dynamic culinary scene, we will once again have several local food trailers on-site at Auditorium Shores offering food throughout the weekend. In addition to featuring rising stars as well as established talent from Austin, we are pleased to showcase more chefs and beverage professionals from around Texas, including Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, and San Antonio.

I think one thing that surprised me was the small amount of food served during the festival. Will there be more food samples to hand out at the 2013 festival, or is the festival designed to focus more on the discussion and celebration of Austin food? Also, there wasn’t as much wine and spirits emphasis as I thought there would be. Are you planning on including more wine and spirits events/talent this year?

The 2013 Festival will feature Interactive Chef stations on-site at Auditorium Shores: participating chefs will cook throughout the day, interact with attendees, and offer samples of their dishes. Additional wine and spirits vendors will be set up and pouring in The Tasting Room throughout the Festival, and the footprint of the Grand Tasting tent will increase, resulting in an increased amount of restaurants, purveyors, and overall food options. When the schedule is released in January, it will include a second Texas wine panel, as well as interactive winemaker discussions.

Tim Love at the 2012 Austin FOOD & WINE Festival grilling demo. Photo taken by Cambria Harkey.

Do you plan on including more participatory events at this year’s festival, like the grilling demo from 2012, or will the festival entail more watch-and-learn events?

We will activate the grounds of Auditorium Shores with Interactive Chef stations, where featured chefs will cook throughout the day, sharing cooking tips and other culinary insights, while dishing up samples.

One suggestion I heard from a friend was that the festival should add more live music to jazz things up a bit. Are you considering doing more live music events during the festival?

Friday night’s The Taste of Texas and Saturday night’s Rock Your Taco competition will feature live musical performances. Additionally, the C3 Presents team plans to book a diverse selection of live music throughout the Festival weekend. The Austin FOOD & WINE Festival is dedicated to celebrating great food, wine, and spirits. As we grow, we’ll make changes from year to year and add music where appropriate.

Do you see the potential for the Austin FOOD & WINE Festival to become as successful as, let’s say, the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen? Or are those just two completely different entities?

Austin FOOD & WINE and the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen are two completely different entities, and all culinary festivals are unique and different in their own way. However, our goal with [the] Austin FOOD & WINE Festival is to create an experience-based event that can become one of the premiere culinary festivals in the country.

This is a C3 Presents question. How do you handle planning for a food and wine event like this when you’re accustomed to highly successful music events? What are some of the differences and similarities between organizing these two types of very different festivals?

C3 Presents focuses on experience-based events, whether it’s the ACL Festival or the White House Easter Egg Roll, and we approach planning festivals the same way. Our goal is to show attendees a good time while providing a unique experience. Cuisine motivates a lot of people in our office and Austin’s vibrant dining scene inspires us to be a part of it. For all of our festivals, we want to curate an interesting and diverse roster of talent that showcases the incredible level of talent in Austin and across Texas, as well as featuring the brightest folks in the industry.

Last but not least, what should festival attendees expect to see in 2013? Feel free to splurge as many any yet-to-be-revealed details about the chef lineup, plans, and changes as you want.

The Austin FOOD & WINE team takes attendee feedback to heart and is committed to improving the overall experience for all participants and Festival guests. The 2013 Festival will feature Interactive Chef stations on-site at Auditorium Shores: participating chefs will cook throughout the day, interact with attendees, and offer samples of their dishes.

Additional wine and spirits vendors will be set up in The Tasting Room pouring drinks throughout the weekend. The footprint of the Grand Tasting tent will increase, resulting in an increased amount of restaurants, purveyors, and overall food options. The footprints of demo and seminar tents will also be bigger, accommodating more attendees.

We will release the schedule of programming in January, which has been designed to maximize attendees’ opportunities to experience a variety of cooking demos, wine tastings, book signings, Grand Tastings, and more. The program will also include more interactive, hands-on demos.

Additionally, several wine, spirits, and food vendors will be activated throughout the grounds at Auditorium Shores, enabling attendees to interact with chefs and culinary professionals in between seminars and demos, throughout the day. And based on the current lush and green condition of Auditorium Shores, we think it’s a great venue to showcase all that Austin has to offer.

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