Scott Banks of Tony’s in Houston with Duchman Family Winery 2010 Vermentino (photo courtesy Tony’s)

By now it should be fairly apparent that the warm climate grapes of Spain, Southern France and even the warmer parts of Italy are taking a shine to Texas soils. One such Italian success story is the Vermentino grape, which is originally a shining star for the little island of Sardinia that sits west of Italy in the Mediterranean sea. It’s a grape Stan and Lisa Duchman took a chance on in 2004 when they first began Duchman Family Winery, devoting their entire wine production to Italian varietals. And in its few years on the Texas market, it’s been an investment that has paid off.

Sure, it may not be one of the more well known white wines we’re used to grabbing from the grocery shelf. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and even Pinot Grigio have dominated that column for some time now. But if you’ve any interest in deepening your breadth of white wine knowledge, especially when it comes to white wines from Texas, Vermentino should be at the top of your list.

Especially if it’s a Vermentino grown by Bingham Family Vineyards from Duchman Family Winery. The 2008 vintage nabbed the Texas Wine of the Month in May 2010 and this month the 2010 Duchman Family Winery Vermentino takes the same honor as Texas Wine of the Month for August. It should come as no surprise considering its gold medal status from the Dallas Morning News/TexSom International Wine Competition and a silver at the world-renowned San Francisco International Wine Competition.

This month’s selection comes at the suggestion of Scott Banks, wine director for the iconic Tony’s restaurant in Houston. Since 1965, Tony’s has long been regarded as one of the best dining experiences in Houston, if not all of Texas. Growing up it’s a place I remember my Houston-native grandparents sharing their stories of entertaining clients and friends for special dinners.

It wasn’t until recently that I enjoyed my first Tony’s experience and I have to say that whatever owner Tony Vallone did to attract sophisticated glitz and glamour in 1965, he’s still pulling it off today. Tony’s is special indeed, with every five-star dining frill you would expect from mussels steamed in tomatoes and white wine, to a meticulous table-side break down of a whole salted branzino served warm and aromatic with fresh herbs. A night at Tony’s is truly special, especially if you get a chance to sit down with the man himself over a glass of 2008 Galatrona Petrolo, a single vineyard Italian Merlot. That’s when the real stories come out.

The more than 1,100-bottle wine list features wines from the world’s greatest regions: from Barolo and Barbaresco (Piedmont) to Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany) as well as an unmatched collection of first-growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy. With a number of rare and collectible bottles—stretching back to 1844—the wine cellar at Tony’s is almost more of an homage to the grand history of global wine as it is a holding room for top beverage selections. And this year, Banks added Duchman’s Vermentino to the list. (To date, the only Texas wine to hit Tony’s hallowed list.)

“Planting Vermentino was such a shrewd decision,” says Banks of Duchman Family Winery for staking their claim with this grape. “It’s a hearty grape with an almost irrepressible acidity that can handle a Texas summer. The acid balances out the almost exotic fruit nature of this wine giving you a beverage that is crisp and clean without being ‘one note.’”

With bright acidity and citrus characters of fresh lemon zest, Meyer lemon, a squeeze of grapefruit and even the tiniest hint of fresh cut grass, the Duchman Vermentino is available on shelves in most HEBs, Whole Foods Markets and Central Markets throughout the state for about $15. Considering we’re still in for a couple more months of Texas heat, it’s a very reasonably priced wine to stock up on and enjoy with grilled fish, seared scallops or even as a back porch sipper on its own.

“At Tony’s, we’re featuring a salad that involves finely shaved heart of palm, finished with Ricotta di Bufala, Fredericksburg peach and crispy prosciutto,” says Banks who loves to pair the Duchman Vermentino with this dish. “The peach jibes with the slight tropical notes of the wine, while the wine’s bright acidity cuts right in to the natural, delicate fat of the Ricotta and the prosciutto.”

And if you like the 2010 Vermentino, you’ll no doubt love the 2011 vintage that will likely be released later this year, if not in early 2013.

“I really think we’ve hit our stride with Texas Vermentino,” says Dave Reilly, head winemaker for Duchman Family Vineyards. “Cliff Bingham [who grows it for us in North Texas] is exceptional at consistently growing high quality grapes regardless of what the growing season throws at him. The 2011 has the same flavor and aroma profile as the 2010, only more intense with more citrus. I honestly think this wine gets better with every vintage.”

Winery: Duchman Family Winery

Price: ~$15

Availability: Most grocery stores or large-scale liquor stores in Texas including HEB, Whole Foods Market, Central Market

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Bingham Family Vineyards, Cliff Bingham, Dave Reilly, Duchman Family Winery 2010 Vermentino, Jessica Dupuy, Scott Banks, Tony's Houston

This past weekend, I had the pleasure of visiting the High Plains of Texas, where among other things (including peanuts and cotton), they grow grapes. For wine. Some of the best wine in the state. In fact, if you’ve recently had what you consider a great bottle of Texas wine, the grapes have probably come from the High Plains. (Most of the wines we have selected for the Texas Monthly Wine of the Month have grapes from this region of the state.)

Aside from the gale-force wind storm that kicked up funnels of dust and a few of our skirts, I enjoyed traversing hundreds of miles with winemakers, grape growers, wine educators and a few other journalists to learn more about why this region is so vital to the Texas wine industry. In short the sandy loam soils, the dramatic temperature changes from day to night, and the dry-as-a-bone weather makes this place a grape haven. You may not have the chance to visit the Panhandle very often but below are some of the key places worth noting in this area:

•                Llano Estacado Winery: One of the larger wineries in the state making a broad range of beautiful wines under the direction of Executive Winemaker Greg Bruni. Some of their more notable selections include Viviana, Viviano, a 2009 unoaked reserve Chardonnay, and an 8-year Chairman’s Reserve port.

•                McPherson Cellars: Owned by Kim McPherson, the son of Llano Estacado co-founder and Texas wine pioneer, Doc McPherson, this winery is the one to watch in Texas. When it comes to making wines representative of Texas terroir, McPherson may actually be a genius. But don’t take my word for it, try for yourself. I’d suggest the 2010 Viognier, the 2010 Rosé of Grenache-Syrah, the 2010 Tré Colore, and the 2010 Rousanne, which was bottled only a few of days ago. Of course, it will be a short while before these are on the market, but the 2009 varieties are worth a try as well. And at about $12-$15 a bottle, you can’t lose.

•                Cap Rock Winery: Under new ownership, the Texas wine community has great hopes for the future of Cap Rock. A few wines to watch from here: 2010 Chenin Blanc, the 2010 Rousanne, and the 21010 Tempranillo.

•                Newsom Vineyards, Bingham Family Vineyards, and Reddy Vineyards: These expansive tracts are home to some of the best of the best grapes in Texas including Bingham Vermentino for Duchman Family Vineyards, Tempranillo for Inwood Estates, and Muscat for Brennan Vineyards.

In the next few months we’ll explore what’s ahead for Texas Wine Education, how the 82nd Legislature will effect the Texas Wine Industry, and we’ll meet a few of the growers who have made such an impact on Texas terroir. Stay tuned!

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Bingham Family Vineyards, Cap Rock Winery, Jessica Dupuy, llano estacado winery, McPherson Cellars, Newsom Vineyards, Reddy Vineyards, Texas High Plains, texas wine