Every king needs his queen, and for Paul Qui – chef/owner of East Side King and winner of Top Chef Texas – that queen is Deana Saukam. Deana, better known for her alter ego the East Side Queen, has been by Paul’s side ever since his whirlwind rise to fame. After Paul’s win on Top Chef Texas, the couple has been traveling the world, planning new restaurant projects, and soaking up nothing but love from the Austin culinary community.

Not only has this been a great year for Qui; it has also been a banner year for Deana, who got engaged to Paul in New York earlier this year. The stylish, bubbly Deana talks with TEXAS MONTHLY about her year of traveling and eating, working in fashion, and what’s to come in 2013.

This has been a big year for both you and Paul. Tell me about your world travels and what you two have been up to recently.

We had a great year of travel. It was a whirlwind, beginning with the Top Chef Texas finale in Vancouver, British Columbia, with non-stop travel from February through November. The first set of trips – Louisville to London – was taken without any stops back to Austin in between cities. We went to Louisville, Kentucky for the Kentucky Derby and to visit Ed Lee, a contestant on Top Chef, and his wife, Diane; New York for the James Beard Awards. Paul won this year in his category, so that was a definite bonus; Paris to wine, dine, and shop; London for more delicious food, shopping, and to see the Snow White and the Huntsman premiere. We also had dinner from Heston Blumenthal, St. John, and Hakkasan; then, we went to Tokyo for more R&R. Highlights from that trip included Jiro, Tsukiji Fish Market, Ramen Inoue (a ramen stand in Tsukiji), the Tsukemen ramen in Tokyo Station, shopping in Ginza, and all the little izakayas next to the train stations. I also fell in love with MOS Burger, since I have a soft spot for really good burger chains, like In-n-Out. We went to Copenhagen for the MAD2 food symposium, hosted by Renee Redzepi. The whole conference was an incredible experience, and I have it on my list to go back every year. Copenhagen is so beautiful, and everyone is so friendly and fashionable, and the weather was amazing while we were there. We celebrated both our birthdays in Spain, starting in Madrid, on to Marques de Riscal, then San Sebastian, with a day trip to the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. During this trip, we did so much and had such a great time. We ate such amazing food in all the places we went. We went to Manila, Philippines to see where Paul grew up and experience all the cuisine and culture that really influence him. The food was delicious, and Paul’s family is really great. Paul had to make an appearance to promote the Emmys, so we hung out in LA for a bit. Other trips we took included Chicago; New York City; Las Vegas; Kansas City; Seattle; Vancouver; Portland; Aspen; Washington, DC; Columbus, Ohio; and Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. I hope I haven’t forgotten any places we visited this year!

Since returning from our last trip, we’ve been working on opening East Side King at Hole in the Wall and Paul’s upcoming flagship restaurant, Qui, which is planned to open in spring 2013. Also in development is a fifth East Side King location on South Lamar. We are taking a break from traveling so we can focus on East Side King and Qui, among other side projects.

What was the most interesting or surprising culinary experience you had on your trips? Any crazy foods or restaurants you were exposed to?

I would have to say that my top places to eat this year were Copenhagen, San Sebastian, and Tokyo. Every place we go to is surprising and interesting in its own way. I am a pretty adventurous eater. I eat pretty much anything and everything, so there wasn’t anything that was too shocking. They did serve us live tiny shrimp that jumped out of mason jars at Noma and larvae and ants during the MAD2 Food Symposium, provided by the Nordic Food Lab. The ants have the same chemical make up as lemongrass, so they were demonstrating how these naturally found proteins can be substituted for certain flavors. The “craziest” restaurant I ate at this year would have to be the meal we had with Nathan Myhrvold in his Cooking Lab. It wasn’t “crazy” per se, and it’s not an actual restaurant, but the entire meal was definitely extremely interesting, and the food was pretty much perfect. I was in awe during the entire meal. I am a bit of a nerd, so being around so much sophisticated laboratory equipment while eating an amazing scientifically prepared meal with a genius was pretty intense. Also, since it is not an actual restaurant, the experience felt even more special.

From what I understand you, like Paul, had quite an interesting culinary upbringing.

My mother is a really great cook, and my dad can eat a lot of food. Like a lot of food. It is pretty amazing. We’re Cambodian, so she would cook a lot at home. Cambodian food is very similar to Vietnamese food, but with influences from Thai, Chinese, and French cuisine. My family loves food, so we’re always eating and talking about food. We also have family in France, so we would travel there in the summers when I was growing up and, of course, eat everything.

How have you been involved in the development of Paul’s new restaurants?

I have been sitting in and giving input on the design development meetings for Qui, and I’ll also be handling all of their PR and Marketing. We are working with a tailor to custom some aspects of the server uniforms, and since I graduated with a degree in fashion design, I’m pretty excited to be a part of the design process. I have been working closely with Paul and June Rodil, Qui’s general manager, to develop the look and feel of Qui. For the East Side Kings, I handle their PR, marketing, social media, catering, and events. I also help out in other ways when I can. I stay out of the kitchen, but I am a great taste-tester.

What do you think are some of the nuances or details that make Paul’s restaurants successful?

Besides the food, which is obviously the key element, the nuances or details that make Paul’s restaurants successful is hard to pin down exactly. I think it mainly comes down to personality. Although we are all serious about the food, we still want to have fun and don’t take ourselves too seriously. For example, we’ve incorporated yellow from Peelander-Z to paint a few of our locations, which I love. I feel as though that comes across in the food and the whole East Side King look and feel. Kind of like a pirate ship. For Qui, we’ve got a few surprises that will keep the vibe alive. Another element is the service. For East Side King, although we’re serving from a food trailer, we always try to stress the service aspect as much as we can.  We want to be able to take care of our guests and make sure that they’re happy, while maintaining the East Side King atmosphere.

What are some of your favorite Austin restaurants, eateries, or bars to hit up? Any dish recommendations I should know about?

I’m still a fan of the East Side dive bars, and I could eat Asian food every day. I’ve been taste-testing so much ramen and other East Side King dishes these past few weeks that my brain is foggy for recommendations right now. I do really like going to Ramen Tatsu-Ya, Titaya’s Thai Cuisine, Tam Deli & Cafe, Uchiko, Second Bar + Kitchen, and Hopdoddy’s, to name a few places.

Are there any chefs or restaurateurs that you really admire in Austin?

I think Bryce Gilmore and Jack Gilmore are great. I love the father and son aspect. I love what Aaron Franklin is doing, and what a nice and humble guy he is despite his launch to barbecue fame. Tyson Cole, of course. Paul Qui isn’t bad either.

What are some dishes you like to make at home? Do you have any staple or go-to dishes?

To be honest, I do not do too much home cooking. Since we’ve been traveling so much this year, neither one of us has really cooked too much at home, except for the one time we hosted a dinner party and the time we threw a holiday party. One of my goals for 2013 is to cook more at home.

You have a strong knowledge of fashion. I know you’ve got your hands quite full, but do you ever think of doing a business or concept with that?

I actually just started as the fashion stylist for a new magazine, DAM – Downtown Austin Magazine – and the first issue debuts in January 2013. We just wrapped our first shoot yesterday, the same day that East Side King at Hole in the Wall opened. It was a little hectic juggling both projects, but in the end, I’m extremely proud of what both East Side King and the DAM team accomplished in the same day. I love that I am able to break away from the restaurant scene for a bit when I’m working on styling for the magazine. It’s nice and therapeutic. I would also love to own my own store one day or do something with design, but I don’t have any immediate plans for that yet.

What about a food concept? It only seems appropriate that the East Side Queen would have her own project.

I would love to do something with food as well, particularly baking or desserts, but for right now, I do not plan on opening any restaurants of my own. I am no chef and am much more useful when I stay out of the kitchen. I like cooking and baking, but just as a hobby. Maybe one day!

In the midst of all the madness of this year, you got engaged. Congratulations! Would you be willing to tell me about the proposal?

Thanks! It’s kind of a long story, but basically, the ring arrived while we were in New York for Paul’s City Grit Pop-up Restaurant. The hotel delivered the FedEx box with the ring in it to me in our hotel room, and I knew something was up. I called my best friend, Betsy Granger, to tell her that I was pretty sure this box had the ring in it, and she pretended not to know that it was actually the ring, although she had been helping Paul with the ring the whole time. When I called Paul to tell him a package had arrived for him at the hotel, he sounded really nervous and told me not to open it. He called me back five minutes later and asked me to bring him the package to the kitchen, saying it was an ingredient he needed. It was all really strange. Later that evening after service, Paul proposed to me in our hotel room. We left for Spain from New York a few days later to celebrate our birthdays, and it was the best trip!

How long did it take you, after you and Paul started dating, to realize that he was gifted? Did you ever envision anything like what you guys have created?

I met Paul nine years ago at Uchi through mutual friends, so I had seen his rise in the ranks at the restaurant. I never really paid much attention to it though and considered him to be “an acquaintance who was a chef from Uchi.” I always knew he was talented, but after we started dating, I realized how driven he was. When they were opening Uchiko, I knew that Paul had crafted some really remarkable dishes. Maybe I was blinded by love, but I really felt like Paul was really on to something, to put it simply. I have always wanted to build something with my significant other, but I never knew that it would be what it is today. I feel really blessed and proud of what we’ve got going on. Of course, there’s still more to do and always things to work on, but I’m pretty happy with what’s going on right now.

What’s next for you guys? What are you looking forward to in 2013?

Up next is Qui Restaurant on East Sixth Street, a fifth East Side King on South Lamar – both in spring 2013 – more work on East Side King at Hole in the Wall, and hopefully more projects that are currently in the idea/discussion phase right now. We also need to maintain and continue to develop the current East Side Kings. Oh, and planning a wedding, possibly in Iceland! I am very excited to see what will happen next. I look forward to being home more so we can get things done, but I also hope we can squeeze a few trips in 2013.

(For more on Qui and Saukum, read today’s TM Daily Post piece about East Side King and the Hole in the Wall.)

Tagged: austin, Bryce Gilmore, Deana Saukam, East Side King, Franklin Barbecue, Jack Gilmore, June Rodil, Paul Qui, Qui, travel, Tyson Cole

Bryce Gilmore has announced plans to open a brick-and-mortar location of the food trailer that propelled him into local fame: The Odd Duck.

Bryce Gilmore

The 120-seat Odd Duck restaurant will re-open in Spring 2013 in its original location at 1219 South Lamar Boulevard with “a rustic and casual atmosphere [featuring] simple and fresh, yet innovative cuisine.” The restaurant will serve lunch, dinner, and late night, and the menus will feature intensely local, seasonal food with a full bar and a wine and beer menu as well.

“All of us involved in the project are committed to knowing where all of our ingredients come from,” Gilmore said in the press release. “One of our proudest accomplishments is supporting local farmers and now we’ll have the capability to support even more farms with the additional volume [at the restaurant].”

Tagged: Barley Swine, Bryce Gilmore, Layne Lynch, Odd Duck, Odd Duck Farm to Trailer

Image Courtesy of Austin Food & Wine Alliance

Tickets are now on sale for the Austin Food & Wine Alliance’s 2nd Annual Wine & Swine. The hog-centric event will take place on Sunday, November 4 at Pioneer Farms in Austin.

A dozen chefs including The Noble Pig’s John Bates and Barley Swine’s Bryce Gilmore will roast whole Berkshire pigs and provide other swine-centric delicacies for attendees to savor and sample. A selection of Texas wines will be served along with the eclectic pork dishes as well. Proceeds from this event will go to benefit the Austin Food & Wine Alliance, a non-profit organization that fosters awareness and innovation in the Central Texas culinary community. To purchase tickets to this culinary event, see this link.

Tagged: Austin Food & Wine Alliance, Austin Food and Wine Festival, Bryce Gilmore, John Bates, Layne Lynch, Nobel Pig, Pig, Pig Roast, Pioneer Farms, Swine, wine, Wine & Swine

Ready your remotes, my friends. Tonight is the premiere of the final season of Anthony Bourdain’s hit series “No Reservations” on the Travel Channel. The first episode of the season features none other than Austin, which Bourdain stopped by during the SXSW music festival in March. As I mentioned before, Bourdain is leaving the Travel Channel for CNN once the final season of “No Reservations” wraps up.

No official word on all the restaurants and food trailers that are featured in tonight’s Austin episode, but one person we know for sure made it into the lineup is Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine.

Bryce Gilmore

“It’s great to be a part of the final season of No Reservations,” Gilmore told TEXAS MONTHLY. “We had a great time a few years ago filming for Odd Duck and again a few months ago for Barley Swine. This time around we sat in one of my favorite bars, drank beers, and shot the shit about the Austin food scene. I can think of worse things to do.”

You can catch all the Austin excitement tonight at 8 p.m. CT on the Travel Channel.

Tagged: Anthony Bourdain, austin, Barley Swine, Bryce Gilmore, Layne Lynch, no reservations, Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, Travel Channel

There aren’t many Anna Wintours out there in the world. In fact, most magazine editors generally prefer to stay hidden from the glare of media exposure. Glued to recorders and notepads, they are the ones who conduct interviews, the ones who bury themselves in research, the ones who feel awestruck by celebrities, the ones who keep their opinions to themselves. Gail Simmons is a rare exception.

Her culinary expertise and sophisticated palate make her one of the most respected and talked about minds in food media. This season, viewers watched as Simmons judged Top Chef Texas in the scorching summer days of San Antonio, Dallas, and Austin. Simmons returns to Texas this weekend for the Austin Food & Wine Festival to cook up her version of cowgirl cuisine and devour her way through the festival and its city. Simmons talked with TEXAS MONTHLY about the festival, her experiences while filming Top Chef Texas, and how Austin compares to New York.

Gail Simmons

What’s going on in Austin right now that makes it worthy of its own festival?

Just to be fair, I wasn’t the sole person responsible for bringing Food & Wine to Austin. I certainly spent some time there this past summer and, simultaneously, Food & Wine was working with people in Austin to see if they could make the festival happen, and I’m so glad they did. I don’t think it could be at a better time. For a long time now, Austin has been rumbling and starting to buzz, and the buzz has been getting bigger and bigger, and I think it’s just a perfect moment to bring a big food festival of this caliber down to Austin. I was there for the first time ever this summer when we were filming Top Chef, and, having spent time in Dallas and San Antonio and lots of other places, I certainly felt the second I got to Austin that there was this amazing, young energy of all different kinds of things: music, art, and food, of course. [There are] a lot of great young chefs doing fun, exciting food. Food that really pays attention to the history and traditions of Texas, of barbecue, and Tex-Mex. But at the same time, they are elevating it, refining it, twisting it, making it modern, and making it their own. It’s a great time to show that off to the world.

What was your filming experience like in Texas? You guys have been all over on Top Chef. What was the highlight of the Top Chef Texas filming?

We had a lot of fun in Texas, and I had never been to the state of Texas before. I didn’t know what to expect, and I was very nervous about the fact that we were filming for the full summer. July was the hottest month on the record in like sixty years, if you recall, so that made for a pretty daunting introduction to Texas. But, I have to say, we had a blast. It was the first season we did where we moved within a season from city to city, so that brought a huge element to the season. I learned so much because there was a lot that I didn’t know about [Texas] in terms of learning about barbecue, learning about Tex-Mex, learning about the history of that part of America that I really had no exposure to until then. The food was great, too. We specifically had a blast in Austin. We went out and saw live music almost every single night when we weren’t working. We ate at a lot of food trucks. We would get off at eleven at night and go sit at a little food truck park and get a six-pack of Shiner Bock, drink cold beer, and sit outside underneath the hanging lights. It was a blast. And there are some amazing restaurants there.

Who are you looking forward to seeing at the festival?

I’m very excited to see Paul [Qui], the winner of Top Chef Texas. I’m excited that now that the show is over he and I can just be friends and I can actually just hang out with him, have a cocktail, and get to know him a little better. When I was there in July last summer, I visited Barley Swine and absolutely adored it. I was just so completely enamored with the space, and I had known the chef a little bit because Bryce [Gilmore] is a Food & Wine Best New Chef, so I had gotten to know him a little bit the year before, but it was great to see him in his own setting and finally eat his food. I’ll definitely be visiting him, too. There are places I still want to check out. I never got a chance to go to Foreign & Domestic, and I’ve heard such amazing things about them. I’m really looking forward to the Rock Your Taco event on Saturday night that I’ll be judging. I think that’ll be really fun because there are some Texas chefs and chefs from out of the state. It’ll be fun to see them go head-to-head with their best tacos.

You’re doing a demo, right?

I’m doing a cooking demo. When I was in Texas, I was inspired by the food, and I’m doing a demo that pays an ode to cowboy food. Chefs like Tim Love are going to be there doing cooking demos with big pieces of meat, grilling, and all that stuff. I’m doing what we named Cowgirl Cookin’. I’m cooking with all those really great flavors that I was inspired by in Texas, but that are made in a feminine way. I’m actually not cooking with any meat, but there is some meat flavoring. I mean, you got add bacon in! Just a little bit. I’m cooking mussels steamed in Shiner Bock and I’m doing cheddar, bacon, and chive biscuits. I’m also doing a peach skillet pudding. This stuff is inspired by my time in Texas, but is a little lighter, very refreshing, and perfect for the summer.

You live and work in New York. How would you compare its dining culture to Austin’s?

The culinary world takes tips from each other all the time. Chefs travel. The word travels. Trends travel, and I’m seeing a lot of trends in New York that I think are really influenced by Austin and vice-versa. The food truck culture that has been going on in Austin for so long has really only been in New York for the last two years. I think that no one does it better than Austin. They’re inexpensive, but have great, flawless food. I love that there can be three or four of them right by each other, but each of them will have really different cuisine. The creativity is really high in Austin. I see a lot of similarities between New York, in that way. In New York right now there are also a ton of Southern restaurants opening. Not necessarily Texan restaurants, specifically, but there has been a huge amount of barbecue places that are opening all over New York. Hill Country Barbecue, certainly, and others. A lot of the same aesthetic that young, hyper-creative Austin chefs are bringing to their food can be said the same of New York: young chefs who have exceptional formal culinary training who want to do something different and who are starting small. Barley Swine is a great example. [Bryce] is starting small and doing something very focused that is casual and comfortable. There is no pretense, but the food is pushing us forward.

Are you doing another season of Top Chef Desserts anytime soon?

We are doing another season of Top Chef proper, first. That’s all I know. One series at a time. It takes up so much time to shoot, so when we start shooting that later on this year, we’ll go from there.

Tagged: austin, Austin Food and Wine Festival, Bryce Gilmore, Foreign & Domestic, Gail Simmons, Paul Qui

In case you haven’t heard the exciting news, Austin’s Jack and Bryce Gilmore are headed to the streets and avenues of New York to knock on the prestigious doors of the James Beard House. The father-and-son duo from Barley Swine and Jack Allen’s Kitchen are vigorously planning their feast for the James Beard experience, along with Bryce’s brother and Jack’s son Dylan, but took some time to talk with TEXAS MONTHLY about what it’s like to cook with kinfolk, what’s likely to appear on their gourmet menu, and whether or not they plan on opening a father-son restaurant in the near future.

For those interested in sampling their James Beard menu, Jack Allen’s Kitchen is hosting a preview dinner on April 3. Check out the event here.

Tell me what thought went into creating the James Beard dinner menu? Take me through your planning and preparation process.

B: We wanted to bring our own styles together and create a menu focusing on Central Texas ingredients because that is something we have in common.

J: Bryce came up with half the dishes and I came up with the other half. It all started with us tasting great Texas wines, and then we selected the food to pair with it. And, of course, we wanted to showcase great Texas food ingredients from our awesome local farmers.

What types of meats, ingredients, and dishes did you want to make sure to include on the menu? Why those?

B: I wanted to use ingredients that I enjoy eating, but also what is common with this area, like goat, local cheeses, wines, and beer.  I love eggs, so that is on there, as is pork. Everything [we’re making] is seasonal and growing right now in Texas.

J: Shrimp, goat, great Heritage pork, crab, oysters, chicken, eggs, great cheeses, and vegetables all by our partners that help keep Jack Allen’s and Barley Swine loaded up each week.

What do these dishes say or symbolize about you as a chef?

B: They represent the type of food we both do. It’s great to showcase what the farmers are doing because they inspire us every day.

J: These dishes are all about keeping it fresh and simple with great textures and flavors. Honor the ingredient and let it shine through.

What’s it like to work with your family on something like this? Both of you are individual chefs who work your own restaurant, how did you combine those different styles and work together on a project like this?

B: We don’t get to cook together enough, so why not do something in New York? We recognize and embrace our differences; this is for fun.

J: Working with both my boys, who happen to be my best friends. That’s the main reason I wanted to do this event. I am so proud of them both.

What’s next for you guys? Will we ever see a joint project in the future? Perhaps a father-son restaurant?

B:  Hard to say, but we hope to do something together in the near future.  If not a restaurant then more and more dinners.

J: People ask that question all the time, and the answer is always the same: I would love to do a project with both my boys, and we will at some point. But, for now, I am concentrated on Jack Allen’s Kitchen number two in Round Rock, and Bryce is real busy with Barley Swine.

Tagged: austin, Barley Swine, Bryce Gilmore, Jack Allen's Kitchen, Jack Gilmore, James Beard, Layne Lynch

Dining Room at Congress, Austin. (Photo Ryann Ford)

Starting in 2002, I have eaten my weight in lamb chops, roasted beets, pork belly, and micro-cilantro every year to come up with Texas Monthly’s annual list of the most innovative, exciting, and delicious new Texas restaurants. For 2012, our feature “Where to Eat Now” runs the gamut from a glittering, high-style dining room in downtown Austin to a causal sushi-and-sake bar in Fort Worth.

The full story can be found in the March issue and online. The top ten and runners-up are below.

Pumpkin cheesecake, Barley Swine. (Photo Jody Horton)

The number one slot was captured by Congress, a secluded enclave on the first floor of the swank Austonian condo tower. Since it opened on New Year’s Eve 2010, outfitted in icy crystal lights and cushy booths, Congress has become the city’s default location for special occasions of all types.

(Tip: Congress is also an excellent  choice if you forgot to send candy and flowers on Valentine’s.) Austinites will remember executive chef David Bull when he was a rookie making a name for himself at the Driskill Hotel a few years ago. Now (after a sojourn in Dallas) he’s back in town, at the top of his game.

The year just passed is notable for bringing several dining trends into sharper focus. Chief among them is what I call the offal truth, a.k.a. nose-to-tail eating. Locally sourced ingredients are also the rule these days. Pigs are big, which is observation about both their size and their popularity on menus.

Casual and small-plate dining are more prevalent than ever (several of the top ten choices have beer gardens and community tables). But fine dining is hardly on the way out (three spots are formal with a vengeance). As for culinary style, it’s all over the map: four of

Duck Three Ways, Marquee (Photo Kevin Marple)

the top places are American melting pot, two are classic French, two are Italian, one Indian, and one Japanese.

Here is the list, in order: 1. Congress, Austin. 2. Barley Swine, Austin. 3. Marquee, Dallas. 4. Coppa, Houston. 5. Philippe, Houston. 6. The Monterey, San Antonio. 7. Contigo, Austin. 8. Lucia, Dallas. 9. Pondicheri, Houston. 10. Shinjuku Station, Fort Worth.

The five runners-up (listed alphabetically by city) are Mesa Veracruz Coastal Cuisine, Dallas; Private Social, Dallas. Revolver Taco Lounge, Fort Worth. Feast, San Antonio; Restaurant Gwendolyn, San Antonio.

The restaurants in this year’s story opened between November 1, 2010, and November 1, 2011.

Tagged: Andrew Wiseheart, Anita Jaisinghani, Barley Swine, Ben Edgerton, Brandi Key, Bryce Gilmore, Chris Shepherd, Congress, Contigo, Coppa, David Bull, David Uygur, Erica Waksmunski, Feast, Indika, Jarry Ho, Jennifer Uygur, Lucia, Marquee Grill, Mesa Veracruz Coastal Cuisine, Michael Sohocki, Olga Reyes, Philippe restaurant, Philippe Schmit, Pondicheri, Private Social, Quealy Watson, Raul Reyes, Rebecca Meeker, Restaurant Gwendolyn, Revolver Taco Lounge, Robert Cain, Shinjuku Station, Stefan Bowers, the Monterey, Tiffany Derry, Tre Wilcox, Where to Eat Now 2012

There’s nothing like a bandwagon. No sooner did Food & Wine and Bon Appétit fall all over themselves to give Austin a whole lotta love than StarChefs.com (an online magazine for chefs and culinary insiders) decided to hold one of its four national awards ceremonies in Austin this year.  Their editorial board scoured the landscape for the top talent in Texas’ capital city (and in San Antonio, too) and recently announced more than a dozen winners in nine categories.

As a result, in February, a gaggle of the hottest chefs in Austin and San Antonio are going to be in one place at one time, offering samples of their best bites. And there will be some choice wine and cocktail sips too.

Here’s what you need to know: The tasting will be held on Tuesday, February 21, from 6 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. at the Driskill Hotel. Tickets are $85 for regular admission, $125 for VIP, and can be purchased online at starchefs.com/tickets or by calling 212-966-7575.

So, is StarChefs.com on the mark as far as their choices go? In my humble opinion, absolutely. They considered around 60 candidates (which they found through talking to local media and doing their own research, followed up by in-person tastings and interviews).

OK, it’s time to cut to the chase. Who won?

In the chefs category, it’s David Bull, Congress; Ned Elliott, Foreign & Domestic; Aaron Franklin, Franklin Barbecue; Bryce Gilmore, Barley Swine; Rene Ortiz, La Condesa; Paul Qui, Uchiko; Quealy Watson, The Monterey, in San Antonio; Andrew Wiseheart, Contigo.

In the pastry chefs category, it’s Plinio Sandalio, Carillon; Philip Speer, Uchiko. In the sustainability chef category, it’s Michael Sohocki, Restaurant Gwendolyn, in San Antonio. In the hotel chef category, it’s Josh Watkins, Carillon. In the artisan category, it’s John Bates and Brandon Martinez, Noble Pig. In the restaurateurs category, Tyson Cole, the Uchi group; Jason Dady, Bin 555, Tre Trattoria, Two Bros. BBQ Market, all in San Antonio. In the sommelier category, it’s June Rodil, Congress. In the mixologist category, it’s Jeret Peña, The Esquire, in San Antonio.

The host chef is  Jonathan Gelman, Driskill Grill. (By the way, the photograph is from a StarChefs.com  gala held in New York last year.)

Tagged: Aaron Franklin, Andrew Wiseheart, austin, Barley Swine, Bin 555, Bon Appetit, Brandon Martinez, Bryce Gilmore, Carillon, Congress, Contigo, David Bull, driskill grill, Food & Wine, Foreign & Domestic, Franklin Barbecue, Jason Dady, Jeret Pena, John Bates, Johnathan Gelman, Josh Watkins, June Rodil, la condesa, Michael Sohocki, Ned Elliott, Noble Pig, Paul Qui, Philip Speer, Plinio Sandalio, Quealy Watson, Rene Ortiz, Restaurant Gwendolyn, san antonio, StarChefs.com, the Monterey, Tre Trattoria, Two Bros. BBQ Market, Tyson Cole, uchi, uchiko

In the years since the first Thanksgiving, families throughout the U.S. have created their own culinary traditions, separate from the archetypal choices. Some opt to forego turkey for Cornish game hens, beef tenderloin, or honey spiraled ham. Some would rather buy cheap, canned jellied cranberries than create their own concoction.

Tagged: Barley Swine, Bryce Gilmore, Jack Allen's Kitchen, Jack Gilmore, Layne Lynch, Thanksgiving, Turkey Stuffing

For years, trailers were the ugly ducking of the culinary scene, with spotty service, slim variety, and the constant specter of food poisoning. Enter a new era, the age of the concept truck, when innovative chefs, cooks, and just plain ordinary folks started opening up quirky, fun food trailers to serve their community. I should know. Over the past 50 weeks, I’ve crisscrossed the corridors of Central Texas (and some of the rest of the state), forking down french fries, scarfing sliders, and feasting on Asian fusion to bring you honest reviews of the best and worst (and many mediocre) food trucks.

So today is a special day. Today marks the fiftieth post of Trailer Thursday! It’s been a long time since the inaugural sushi trailer kickoff post.

To celebrate, I thought we should visit a swan on the scene: Odd Duck Farm to Trailer. One of the most innovative, interesting, and delicious spots I’ve been to, Bryce Gilmore’s mobile station has been using local, sustainable ingredients (and a wood-firing oven!) to create a rotating array of small plates since 2009. But y’all are trendy. You’ve likely already visited this belle of the ball more than once, not to mention frequented Gilmore’s hot new brick-and-mortar venture, Barley Swine, on South Lamar. Indeed, the chef was featured in April’s Food & Wine magazine as one of the ten best new chefs in the country, and it’s a challenge to squeeze into Barley Swine’s packed premises or even order at Odd Duck before it sells out of its most popular items each night.

Fortunately for me, on the sweltering evening that I revisited, the kitchen was just firing up. And oh, what a treat. First was a flavorful quail breast, grilled to perfection with just a hint of smokiness, sided with crisp-grilled green beans, and topped with a shishito pepper. One of the things I love about Odd Duck is the presentation. Sure, you might be eating out of styrofoam, but it’s still going to look damn good. Another example: the vegetarian entrée, with grilled zucchini and yellow squash, hints of fresh lettuce, plump texmati rice, and melty gruyere with a sherry onion vinegar. The crimson diced tomatoes on top added the final summer touch.

Though the homestead Parmesan grits and lamb shank was hardly the prettiest dish of the evening, it was certainly my favorite. Smoky, pulled lamb in the center of a hearty round of custard-yellow grits, with crispy grilled broccoli florets and plenty of Parmesan: How can you beat that?

Odd Duck tried its hardest with a beautifully constructed Richardson Farms pork belly slider. The tiny sweet bun was buttered and grilled to perfection and the pork belly had a nice crust and texture, but unfortunately, it was too fatty and tasteless. Even the pink homemade sauerkraut and aioli couldn’t save the slider from its bland fate. Too bad, especially considering that it’s a staple on the menu.

I preferred the venison sausage on a nicely grilled baguette, with a shishito pepper, a dollop of aioli, and a pickle spear on top. Nothing ground-breaking here, but good eating nonetheless. The same could be said for the expertly done roasted beet salad, with tender beet cubes, roasted cauliflower, and heaps of feta in a light champagne vinegar.

So go discover Odd Duck’s exceptional fare all over again. Surrounded by so much satisfying savory food, you won’t even notice the scorching summer heat that’s now upon us. And just think, you might even make it out of the trailer park without overindulging on one of Gourdough’s donuts.

1219 S. Lamar (512-550-5766). Open Tue–Sat 5:30–10.

Posted by Megan Giller

Tagged: Barley Swine, Bryce Gilmore, Odd Duck Farm to Trailer, Trailer Thursday