Scott Banks of Tony’s in Houston with Duchman Family Winery 2010 Vermentino (photo courtesy Tony’s)

By now it should be fairly apparent that the warm climate grapes of Spain, Southern France and even the warmer parts of Italy are taking a shine to Texas soils. One such Italian success story is the Vermentino grape, which is originally a shining star for the little island of Sardinia that sits west of Italy in the Mediterranean sea. It’s a grape Stan and Lisa Duchman took a chance on in 2004 when they first began Duchman Family Winery, devoting their entire wine production to Italian varietals. And in its few years on the Texas market, it’s been an investment that has paid off.

Sure, it may not be one of the more well known white wines we’re used to grabbing from the grocery shelf. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and even Pinot Grigio have dominated that column for some time now. But if you’ve any interest in deepening your breadth of white wine knowledge, especially when it comes to white wines from Texas, Vermentino should be at the top of your list.

Especially if it’s a Vermentino grown by Bingham Family Vineyards from Duchman Family Winery. The 2008 vintage nabbed the Texas Wine of the Month in May 2010 and this month the 2010 Duchman Family Winery Vermentino takes the same honor as Texas Wine of the Month for August. It should come as no surprise considering its gold medal status from the Dallas Morning News/TexSom International Wine Competition and a silver at the world-renowned San Francisco International Wine Competition.

This month’s selection comes at the suggestion of Scott Banks, wine director for the iconic Tony’s restaurant in Houston. Since 1965, Tony’s has long been regarded as one of the best dining experiences in Houston, if not all of Texas. Growing up it’s a place I remember my Houston-native grandparents sharing their stories of entertaining clients and friends for special dinners.

It wasn’t until recently that I enjoyed my first Tony’s experience and I have to say that whatever owner Tony Vallone did to attract sophisticated glitz and glamour in 1965, he’s still pulling it off today. Tony’s is special indeed, with every five-star dining frill you would expect from mussels steamed in tomatoes and white wine, to a meticulous table-side break down of a whole salted branzino served warm and aromatic with fresh herbs. A night at Tony’s is truly special, especially if you get a chance to sit down with the man himself over a glass of 2008 Galatrona Petrolo, a single vineyard Italian Merlot. That’s when the real stories come out.

The more than 1,100-bottle wine list features wines from the world’s greatest regions: from Barolo and Barbaresco (Piedmont) to Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany) as well as an unmatched collection of first-growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy. With a number of rare and collectible bottles—stretching back to 1844—the wine cellar at Tony’s is almost more of an homage to the grand history of global wine as it is a holding room for top beverage selections. And this year, Banks added Duchman’s Vermentino to the list. (To date, the only Texas wine to hit Tony’s hallowed list.)

“Planting Vermentino was such a shrewd decision,” says Banks of Duchman Family Winery for staking their claim with this grape. “It’s a hearty grape with an almost irrepressible acidity that can handle a Texas summer. The acid balances out the almost exotic fruit nature of this wine giving you a beverage that is crisp and clean without being ‘one note.’”

With bright acidity and citrus characters of fresh lemon zest, Meyer lemon, a squeeze of grapefruit and even the tiniest hint of fresh cut grass, the Duchman Vermentino is available on shelves in most HEBs, Whole Foods Markets and Central Markets throughout the state for about $15. Considering we’re still in for a couple more months of Texas heat, it’s a very reasonably priced wine to stock up on and enjoy with grilled fish, seared scallops or even as a back porch sipper on its own.

“At Tony’s, we’re featuring a salad that involves finely shaved heart of palm, finished with Ricotta di Bufala, Fredericksburg peach and crispy prosciutto,” says Banks who loves to pair the Duchman Vermentino with this dish. “The peach jibes with the slight tropical notes of the wine, while the wine’s bright acidity cuts right in to the natural, delicate fat of the Ricotta and the prosciutto.”

And if you like the 2010 Vermentino, you’ll no doubt love the 2011 vintage that will likely be released later this year, if not in early 2013.

“I really think we’ve hit our stride with Texas Vermentino,” says Dave Reilly, head winemaker for Duchman Family Vineyards. “Cliff Bingham [who grows it for us in North Texas] is exceptional at consistently growing high quality grapes regardless of what the growing season throws at him. The 2011 has the same flavor and aroma profile as the 2010, only more intense with more citrus. I honestly think this wine gets better with every vintage.”

Winery: Duchman Family Winery

Price: ~$15

Availability: Most grocery stores or large-scale liquor stores in Texas including HEB, Whole Foods Market, Central Market

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Bingham Family Vineyards, Cliff Bingham, Dave Reilly, Duchman Family Winery 2010 Vermentino, Jessica Dupuy, Scott Banks, Tony's Houston

Salt Lick Cellars Sangiovese Reserve, 2009

Sangiovese, one of Italy’s great wine grapes. If you’ve dined at any run of the mill Italian joint, you’ve probably encountered it in some form or fashion as it is used to make Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and the blends popularized by the American market as “Super Tuscans,” just to name a few. The grape itself has more than 15 clones found throughout Italy, all with different names, so it may be hard to identify off the bat, but it you familiarize yourself with the Italian regions, you’ll soon see Sangiovese is, well, all over the place.

When it’s young, the wines tend to be a little light with hints of bright fruit, strawberry and a little spice. When aged in oak for a while, they can grow in depth and complexity.

But perhaps more importantly, Sangiovese does really well in Texas.

This month’s Texas Wine of the Month selection comes with the help of sommelier Richard Arnold, of Houston’s La Colombe d’Or. Originally an Austin native, Arnold nurtured a growing passion for wine while managing wine lists in Colorado restaurants Potager and Larkspur as well as notable Texas locales such as Del Frisco’s, Vic & Anthony, and Pappas Brothers. He was also one of the first to help open Spanish-inspired Malaga in Austin with Jay Knepp and Jennifer Robin, both of whom are now with the wine program at the Salt Lick Cellars in Driftwood.

That’s right, as in Salt Lick Barbecue. If you haven’t been out for the legendary, family-style barbecue classic in a while, you may want to make the trek. You’ll soon notice that vineyards surround the entire property.

In recent years the Salt Lick has planted warm-climate grapes that seem to love the Texas heat including Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Sangiovese and Syrah. They’ve also made relationships in the High Plains to bolster their grape inventory. Though currently in small production, the Salt Lick has slowly begun releasing wines under their own label with the help of noted Texas winemakers including Ed Auler of Fall Creek Vineyards (Tempranillo), Dave Reilly of Duchman Family Vineyards (Texas Hill Country Red and Barbecue Red), and Kim McPherson of McPherson Cellars (Sangiovese Reserve). (more…)

Tagged: Dave Reilly, Duchman Family Vineyards, Ed Auler, Fall Creek Vineyards, Jay Knepp, Jennifer Robin, Jessica Dupuy, Kim McPherson, La Colombe D'Or, McPherson Cellars, Richard Arnold, Salt Lick barbecue, Salt Lick Cellars, Salt Lick Cellars Sangiovese Reserve 2009, Scott Roberts