Courtesy of the alcoholian.com

Mason, Texas. It’s not just known for topaz digging, deer hunting, or its claim be the home of authentic Cooper’s Barbecue—as opposed to the famed smoke pit in Llano. But we’re not discussing barbecue today. Instead, we’d like to note that Mason has fast gained recognition for its small little wine tasting room off the town square—the home of Sandstone Cellars Winery.

Though much of the Hill Country is made up of limestone and granite outcroppings, the Mason area is known for its sandstone deposits, which makes for a sandy soil rich in iron and minerals that according to Sandstone Cellars winemaker, Don Pullum, make for aromatic wines. Something celebrated Texas sommelier Drew Hendricks of Pappas Bros. restaurant in Houston noted when introduced to Sandstone Cellars wines earlier this year. Hendricks is not only the Corporate Wine Director and Director of Education for Pappas, but sits on the board of the Guild of Sommeliers and is the co-founder of the annual TexSom Beverage Conference in Dallas. Both he and Master Sommelier, James Tidwell of the Four Seasons Las Colinas began the conference as a forum for Texas sommeliers to continue their education and challenge their palates in annual blind tasting competitions.

“This conference has been a great way for Texas sommeliers to get to know each other and sharpen their knowledge of wine,” says Hendricks. “There’s always something new to be learned in wine.”

Learning about Sandstone Cellars’ portfolio of wines, was certainly an example to Hendricks about the many notable selections of Texas wine, which is why this month’s Texas Wine of the Month comes from this lonely little winery out in Mason: The Sandstone Cellars VII, Touriga Nacional, 2009.

This relatively low profile Portuguese red grape is a varietal worth watching as Texas grape growers continue to explore the best grapes for the state, and thereby better defining the Texas terroir. Known for its high tannins and concentrated black fruit flavors, touriga is what Pullum would consider an excellent blending grape for its ability to add spice, complexity, and structure to a wine.

“Touriga grows so well here and I’m a big believer in using it as a blending grape,” says Pullum, who supplies Sandstone with grapes from his own Akashic Vineyards. “The 2009 touriga turned out to be so well balanced that we thought it could stand on its own as a straight wine.”

In Hendricks’ opinion, Pullum was spot on. “The structure is just perfect,” says Hendricks. “I love that the Sandstone wines are a perfect balance between laboratory wines and super earthy Burgundy-style wines. Their touriga is a great example of a good artisanal wine. Sandstone is just doing a fantastic job.” And he’s not the only one to think so, at a dinner pairing on Tuesday evening, Hendricks poured this wine for Ray Isle, Executive Wine Editor of Food and Wine Magazine who later tweeted: @islewine: Mighty excellent ’96 J Prieur Montrachet tonight in the company of equally excellent @drewhendricksms. Sandstone Touriga from TX cool, too.

Hendricks notes flavors of deep dark cherry, mint, plumb, and a mushroom, earthy quality to the wine. “For me, this wine would be braised meat heaven,” says Hendricks. “Pair it with short ribs or a lamb shank, and you’re in for a great meal.”

At $30 a bottle, the Sandstone Cellars VII is a great value for what you’re getting. While it’s not readily available at retail outlets throughout the state it is easy to order directly from the winery. It’s also on the wine list at Fearing’s and The Pyramid in Dallas, and as you may have guessed, Pappas Bros. Steakhouses in Dallas and Houston.

- Jessica Dupuy

Tagged: Don Pullum, Drew Hendricks, Jessica Dupuy, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Sandstone Cellars Winery, texas wine, Texas Wine of the Month, TexSom