Eat My Words

Monday, December 17, 2012

Top Texas Wines of 2012

This year, we’ve decided to offer up a retrospective of some of the top Texas wines for 2012. Starting November 1, I began tasting through a sampling of more than 60 different Texas wines including selections from larger, well-known producers including Llano Estacado Winery, Fall Creek Vineyards and Messina Hof, to smaller estate producers including Calais Winery, Perissos Vineyard and Winery, Pontotoc Vineyards, and Landon Winery. I tried to get as wide of a selection as possible. There are MANY Texas wines out there, which means it’s virtually impossible to try them all. In the end, I’ve managed to whittle down a list of 10 reds and 10 whites that span a breadth of the great winemaking Texas is seeing right now.

A few things to note:

1) I tried to taste wines that were available at the time of evaluation. (November 1—December 15). There are a number of beautiful wines that I’ve tasted throughout 2012 that could easily have earned a spot on this list, such as the McPherson Cellars Roussanne Reserve or the Lost Oak 2010 Syrah—but these were not available in circulation. I should note that since tasting through these wines in the past month, a few of them now have very limited availability, but were able to find at the time of evaluation.

2) All of the tastings were done blind. Once I collected the wines for tasting, all of them were brown-bagged and opened by a third party before tasting in an effort to keep all evaluations objective and fair.

3) Each wine tasted was awarded a score between 1 and 5 in the categories of nose, palate, finish, and overall drinkability for a total of 20 points per wine. The final list is based on the top scoring evaluations.

4) Finally, and most importantly, this a list compiled based on my own personal tastes and overall understanding of what well-made, balanced wine should taste like. But in the world of wine, as with good Texas barbecue or Tex-Mex food, what really matters is what tastes good to you. Discovering that for yourself is the most rewarding part of learning more about Texas wine.

This is a list of all wines that scored 18 or higher in overall points in alphabetical order.

Red Wines

Brennan Vineyards 2010 Dark Horse

~$19 – Winery (Brennan Vineyards and 4.0 Cellars)

One of the first showings of Texas grown Nero D’Avola, a Sicilian grape known for its sweet tannins and peppery flavors. This wine is lighter in style, but big on complexity. It’s smoky and spicy with hints of bright red fruit, wild orchid, white pepper and even a little bacon. If this is what we have to look forward to from Nero D’Avola, I look forward to seeing more of it in the future.

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Montepulciano

~$22 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

This wine works well as an every day wine that can easily make the grade for a special occasion. It’s fruit forward with blackberry, blueberry, vanilla and cinnamon on the nose with a hint of earthiness and medium tannins on the palate. Montepulciano has been a consistent work horse for Duchman from vintage to vintage.

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Nero D’Avola

~$20 – Winery

The first two Nero D’Avola wines released in Texas this year also happen to make this list. The fruit in this wine has dark blackberry and aromatic ripe blueberry. You’ll find notes of vanilla and baking spices, but also a bit of leather and excellent tannic structure on the palate.

 

 

Inwood Estates Vineyards 2009 Magdalena 

~$50 – Select liquor stores, winery

This wine is an example of how beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon can actually be in Texas. The nose has rich, ripe red fruit, soft vanilla and the perfume of walking into a greenhouse full of violets. With such a big nose, the wine is actually lighter on the palate balanced with a hint of acid and nervy tannic structure.

 

Llano Estacado Tempranillo Cellar Reserve 2010

$16 – Grocery stores such as HEB, select liquor stores, winery

For those who are unsure of Texas Tempranillo, this wine makes a good introduction. Not only because it’s just a good wine in general, but because it’s a rounded, approachable version of what this often cantankerous grape can be like. You’ll catch hints of raspberry, blackberry, bacon, smoke and portobello mushroom.

 

McPherson Cellars Sangiovese 2009

~$16-$18 – Some grocery stores, Spec’s, select liquor stores, winery

Rich with dark cherry and raspberry, a little forest floor, and a hit of vanilla, this full-bodied wine has a lovely round finish and drinks beautifully. (Note: This is a wine that is For Sale In Texas Only, which means less than 75 percent of the wine is from Texas. The remainder is from neighboring New Mexico.)

 

Pedernales Tempranillo Reserve 2010

~$30 – Select liquor stores, winery

This Tempranillo gives us a glimpse at the true nature of Tempranillo in Texas. It’s a finicky grape with dark fruit, mushroom, tobacco and often a little leather. The Pedernales tames some of the wild tannic structure in this grape without stripping it down too much. You also find hints of cinnamon, vanilla, and a touch of green parsley. This wine is rustic, yet elegant.

 

Perissos Vineyard and Winery 2010 Racker’s Blend

$45 – Winery

Seth Martin of Perissos Vineyard and Winery likes to get the most flavor from his estate grapes, which grow on a peaceful tract of land in the Colorado River Valley near Marble Falls. Each year, he selects a portion of each of the red varietals that grow on his property to blend into his Racker’s Blend. A true field blend, the percentage of grapes varies from year to year. This 2010 vintage is big with ripe dark and red fruit, rich floral perfume and a melange of cocoa, cherry and fresh tobacco. With more than 15% alcohol, it’s not a wine for sissies.

Pontotoc Vineyard 2011 San Fernando Academy 

$25 – Select Central Texas outlets including East End Wines (Austin), House.Wine and Lincoln Street Wine Bar (Fredericksburg), Sandstone Cellars Wine Bar (Mason), Salt Lick Cellars (Driftwood), winery (info@pontotocvineyard.com)

This is a big wine. What’s that former soap opera? The Bold and the Beautiful? That’s this wine. And not just because well-loved Mason County winemaker Don Pullum threw just about everything but the kitchen sink in here. (Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane, Tempranillo, Grenache and Syrah) But because it’s just a great all around red wine—especially for the Texas steak lover. On the nose is lush dark fruit,  green pepper, vanilla and cocoa, and a little bit of dark forest floor. This is a big, balanced wine at a restrained 12.5 percent alcohol. Get some.

William Chris Vineyards 2011 Hunter

$32 – winery

For those of you who enjoy Pinot Noir for its red fruit and earthy qualities, this is the Texas Wine for you. Let me be clear that this is NOT a Pinot Noir. In fact it’s a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre. But this wine has all the elegance and complexity of a French Burgundy. Excellent bright, red fruit with a refined finish.

 

Honorable Mention: Messina Hof Cabernet Franc Reserve, Salt Lick Cellars 2010 Mourvedre, Duchman Family Winery 2010 Aglianico, Landon Winery Tempranillo Reserve 2011, Llano Estacado 1836

White Wines

Becker Vineyards 2011 Fumé Blanc

~$10 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

One of the top sellers from Becker, this is a consistently good wine that balances the best of its citrus, peach, and white flower aromas with a dry, balanced finish. And at $10, it’s a top pick for an every day white wine.

 

 

Brennan Vineyards 2011 Lily

$18 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery (Brennan Vineyards or 4.0 Cellars)

This wine was a happy surprise. Its aromatic bouquet of white and yellow flowers with hints of honeysuckle and apricot almost trick the senses into thinking it may be a little sweet, but it turns out to have a balanced off-dry finish with good acidity that prevents it from being cloying. Excellent wine for spicy foods.

 

CapRock Winery 2010 Roussanne

~$15-$17 – Select grocery and liquor stores, winery

This golden beauty took home a gold medal from the 2012 Dallas Morning News and TEXSOM International Wine Competition this year. And with good reason. With lush citrus, young peach, and a touch of minerality, this is a great wine to have on hand during the summer time.

 

 

Duchman Family Winery 2010 Trebbiano

$12 – Winery

Those who like bone dry wines brimming with minerality and a hint of citrus will love this wine. Lemon zest, a touch of red apple and hot, wet limestone dominate the nose and palate with a balanced, rounded finish. A perfect white for a red wine drinker.

 

 

Hilmy Cellars 2011 Muscat Canelli

$22 – Winery

Typically this is a wine that you might find on a dessert wine menu. Muscat Canelli tends to reveal quite a bit of sugar in the wines it produces. And while this wine definitely has hints of sweetness, it also has a beautiful balance with acidity. If you like sweet wine, you’ll love this one. If you DON’T like sweet wine, I’d still give it a try with spicy Asian food like Thai or Szechuan Chinese. That little touch of sweetness will pair perfectly with the heat from the food.

 

Lost Oak Winery 2011 Riesling

~$17 – Winery (Lost Oak Winery or 4.0 Cellars)

If you’re a Riesling fan, you’ll probably like this wine. If you’re NOT a Riesling fan, I encourage you to try this wine. It’s not the cloyingly sweet syrup you’ve come to expect out of a Blue Nun bottle. This Riesling is dry with citrus, apricot, white tea, and the faint scent of honeysuckle. The crisp finish is similar to what you’d find in French Alsatian Rieslings—not surprising considering owner/winemaker Gene Estes spent a few years living in Alsace.

 

McPherson Cellars 2011 Les Copains

~$12-$14, Some grocery stores, Spec’s, select liquor stores, winery

Pretty on the nose and pretty on the palate, this is the kind of wine that can please all friends at the table. Rather fitting since its name is French for “friends,” which is particularly how the fruit, sophistication and complexity of this blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache blanc work together in this wine. Note: the 2011 vintage was almost sold out when this wine was sampled. Look to the 2012 vintage in the Spring of 2013.

 

Pedernales Cellars Reserve Viogner 2011

With a strong focus on Viognier as the primary white grape in their program, Pedernales Cellars continues to hammer out a standard of elegance for this grape that is creating a foundation for what Viognier should taste like. Not only in Texas, but anywhere else. Swoony floral characteristics with ripe pear, melon and apricot as well as a hint of juicy fruit gum perk up the nose, while a dry and crisp finish with balanced acidity make this wine the perfect alternative to your average Chardonnay.

 

Perissos Vineyards and Winery 2011 Roussanne

$34 – Winery

You can almost taste the complexity in this wine simply by looking at its bright golden color. Grown on the High Plains, this French Rhone varietal shows off its very best in this wine with ripe pear, yellow flowers, cantaloupe and honey-baked fruit on both the nose and palate with a crisp finish. This is a perfect example of what Roussanne can do in Texas soil.

 

Vineyard at Florence 2011 Aurelia

~$30 – Select liquor stores, winery

For a long time, Texas has taken stabs at producing wine from the American hybrid Blanc du Bois. But the reviews have often been mixed. The Aurelia from the Vineyards at Florence is finally the exception. A beautiful wine with soft tropical fruit along with a fragrant floral bouquet of white and yellow flowers. Its crisp, dry finish leaves a hint of minerality, making this a perfect warm-weather wine with food.

 

Honorable Mention: Duchman Family Winery 2010 Vermentino, Fall Creek Vineyards 2011 Chardonnay

- Jessica Dupuy

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Friday, October 5, 2012

Celebrate Texas Wine Month!

It’s October in Texas, which among other things means football, Halloween costumes, and hopefully, cooler weather. October is also Texas Wine Month, where Texans can dedicate a whole month raising a glass to Texas wine.

While you’ll definitely find a whole host of ways to celebrate in the Hill Country, we’ve tried to put together a list of events all over the state. Be sure to take note of special rates wineries may be offering throughout the state. For instance, Duchman Family Winery is offering deep discounts on cases of their 2009 Zinfandel and Orange Muscat. A number of wineries such as Flat Creek Estate are offering special wine dinners as well. And if you can’t make it to one this month, don’t worry—every day’s a good day to toast Texas wine!

Texas Hill Country Wine Trail

A Month of Sundays – This is a special tasting series divided among 17 wineries who will host a very special wine tasting from their barrel rooms and cellars. It’s one thing to taste wine bought from a bottle on the shelves. It’s something completely different when you get to taste it as it’s developing in the barrel. You’ll also get to taste a petite food pairing with the wines while you spend time getting to know winemakers from each winery. Each ticket holder will receive a gift bag from Texas Hill Country Wineries with special gifts and offers from some of our Hill Country partners.  You will designate which winery you choose to pick up your bag at time of purchase.

Space is very limited. Click here for pricing and details.

Here’s a quick run down of the hosting wineries:

October 7 and 21

Becker Vineyards

Bending Branch Winery

Dry Comal Creek Vineyards

Kerrville Hills Winery

Pedernales Cellars

Singing Water Vineyards

William Chris Vineyards

October 14 and 28

Alamosa Cellars

Bell Springs

Driftwood Estate Winery

Fall Creek Vineyards

Flat Creek Estate

Pillar Bluff Vineyards

Solaro Estate Winery

Spicewood Vineyards

Stone House Vineyards

Texas Legato

Texas Wine Month Trail – It’s no secret that you usually have to pay a small fee to try wines in winery tasting rooms. This month you can take advantage of a one-stop pass that allows you up to 3 tastings at each of 32 wineries throughout the Hill Country for only $20 a ticket. That’s a lot of wine to sample. But don’t worry, you have the whole month of October to take advantage of it. So get your pass and get tasting! (Note: The pass also allows you a 15% discount on 3-bottle purchases at each winery.)

Texas Winemaker Vintner Dinner Series – October 18: Join one of the Hill Countries newest additions, 4.0 Cellars as their collaboration of winemakers from McPherson Cellars, Brennan Vineyards and Lost Oak Winery show off a few of their best wines expertly paired with a Texas-style dinner from celebrated Hill Country Chef Ross Burtwell at the Cabernet Grill. You’ll also get a chance to meet Notable Texas Wine expert Dr. Russ Kane whose book The Wineslinger Chronicles was released this year. (Grab a signed copy while your there!) Seating is limited. Get your reservation here.

Fredericksburg Food & Wine Fest – October 27: In its 22nd year, this festive weekend not only celebrates Texas wine, but the rich culture of Hill Country cuisine as well. The Marktplatz of downtown Fredericksburg will be abuzz with food, wine, music, and crafts.

8th Annual Texas Fall Fest – November 16-18: Technically this doesn’t fall within Texas Wine Month, but Fall Fest has always been a strong part of celebrating Texas wine and food. This year, the event will be hosted at the Horseshoe Bay Yacht Club and Resort near Marble Falls and will showcase myriad Texas wines, Central Texas chefs, live music and a few other festive events throughout the three-day festival.

Texas Bluebonnet Wine Trail – Bryan/College Station

Texas Reds Festival – Celebrating its fifth year, Texas Reds is an ode to two things Texans love most: red meat and red wine. Downtown Bryan closes its main streets for a sampling of more than 20 Texas wineries and a full-blown ribeye steak cook-off. Of course, you’ll find a whole lot more at the Texas Reds Festival including a whole host arts, crafts and gift booths and a fantastic line up of live music from The Texas Tornadoes, Johnny Lee and the Urban Cowboys and Roger Creager.

 

The High Plains – Lubbock

19th Annual Grape Day at Llano Estacado Winery – October 27: A celebration of the year’s harvest, Grape Day is Llano Estacado’s way of showcasing some of the best of what the High Plains of Texas has to offer. Sip special wines while listening to live music, playing with the kids or watching the Texas Tech football game, which will, of course, be broadcast from large television screens. Entry is $5 and includes a complimentary glass of wine—including the wine glass itself as a souvenir.

- Jessica Dupuy

 

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Friday, August 17, 2012

Texas Wine: TexSom features Texas Terroir

The Texas Terroir Lineup at TexSom

For anyone wondering how Texas wines fare among experts in the wine industry, the proof was in this year’s 2012 TexSom conference. In it’s eighth year, TexSom—short for Texas Sommelier’s Conference—reserved one of their nine wine sessions for an hour completely devoted to Texas Terroir.

A few hundred sommeliers and industry retail and restaurant professionals were in the room as part of the sold out two-day conference, which was held at the Four Seasons Resort and Club Las Colinas outside of Dallas. The session was led by the Guy Stout, a Master Sommelier who manages the wine education program at Glazer’s, and Christy Canterbury, a Master of Wine, wine educator and writer, and native Texan who helped judge the 2012 Dallas Morning News/TEXSOM International Wine Competition earlier this year.

The two opened with a few comments on the state of the Texas industry showing numbers on just how big Texas wine has become. In 2001, there were only 46 wineries producing only about 600,000 cases of wine. By 2009, there were more than 220 wineries producing more than 1.2 million cases. And the growth has only increased in more recent years.

Among the top points Stout drove home was the fact that Texas winemakers have finally honed in on warm climate grapes to produce the best wines within the state. Among the lineup included many examples of these varietals such as Italian Vermentino, Viognier from the Rhone Valley of France, and Touriga Nacional from Portugal.

Of the eight wines showcased for the tasting, all were “single vineyard” wines, meaning each one was made from grapes that came from a specific Texas vineyard.

“We really wanted to show the terroir of Texas for this seminar,” says Drew Hendricks, TexSom co-founder and director of wine and beverage education for Pappas Restaurants. “It is possible to make wine that has a sense of place in Texas and these wines show that.”

Below is the list of Texas wines tasted, with a comment or two from Stout and other audience members in between…

 2010 Duchman Family Vineyards Vermentino (Bingham Family Vineyards)

“The typicity of this wine is outstanding,” said Stout. “It tastes exactly like Vermentino should taste.

2010 McPherson Cellars Reserve Roussanne (Bingham Family Vineyards)

“This shows what we can do with Rhone varieties,” said Stout. “McPherson is one of the greatest winemakers in the state of Texas and this wine is an example of why.”

“This wine is outstanding,” added Marcy Jimenez of Houston Wine Merchant. “It’s brilliant and so exciting that this is happening here in Texas.”

2010 CapRock Winery Viognier (Reddy Vineyards)

“This wine tastes like the variety should taste,” said Canterbury. “It’s floral with apricots and orange peel. It’s beautiful.”

 2009 Sandstone Cellars VII (Mason County)

“This wine has iron and spice like you would find with Touriga,” says Canterbury, but it is also very savory. It’s not fruit forward, but restrained and European in style.”

“Don Pullum is the winemaker for Sandstone and I’d say he’s one of the best winemakers in the state and this Touriga blend is an example of the great job he’s doing,” added food and wine journalist Andrew Chalk of D Magazine.

2009 Pedernales Cellars Kuhlken Vineyards Reserve Blend

“Pedernales Cellars aged this wine in both American and French oak. It’s a lovely wine that will definitely hold for a while if you age it,” said Stout. “The blend has Tempranillo and Merlot and shows a more European footprint than a lot of Californian wines.”

2010 Fairhaven Vineyards Chambourcin

“We really wanted to show this wine because it’s from someone who really believes in American hybrid grapes,” said Stout about the red Chamburcin grape, which is a French-American hybrid between that has shown to be resistant to fungal diseases . “R.L. Winters hangs his hat on these varieties and this is one of the best representations he has of why.”

2010 Vineyard at Florence “Veritas” Cabernet Sauvignon

“This isn’t a warm variety grape, but this wine shows really well with black currant, eucalyptus and a little sweet vanilla from the oak,” said Canterbury. “It’s really nice.”

2010 Haak Vineyards “Madeira” Blanc du Bois

“I think Blanc du Bois is one of the most exciting white wine varieties in Texas,” said Stout. “It’s an American hybrid that took five generations to get correct, but Raymond Haak at Haak Vineyards is doing it right. It has orange blossom and orange water on the nose and palate. Beautiful.”

The two days of wine-filled education featured eight other seminars including some particularly eye-opening (and delicious) sessions on Riesling, Cabernet Franc and perhaps my favorite, Oregon wines. TexSom ended Monday evening with a festive Grand Tasting featuring more than 150 wines from all over the world. And of course, Texas was there to represent with wines from CapRock Winery, Duchman Family Winery, Inwood Estates, Pedernales Cellars, and Sandstone Cellars which brought along an intriguing Tempranillo from a new Mason County Vineyard, Pontotoc Vineyard.

Winners of the Texas Best Sommelier competition at TexSom, David Keck (2nd place), Ryan Tedder (1st place), Steve Murphey (3rd place)

The highlight of the evening was the announcement of Texas’ Best Sommelier, Ryan Tedder of FT33 Restaurant in Dallas. Tedder was one of 23 competitors in the annual Texas Best Sommelier competition which is run behind-the-scenes at TexSom and proctored by a number of Master Sommeliers from the Court of Master Sommeliers. An integral part of TexSom, the competition was designed to help give aspiring sommeliers scholarship funding to help further their wine studies. (Tedder received $2,500 for his top honor.)

David Keck of Uchi Houston was the second runner up and Steve Murphey of Mid-Stage Wine & Liquor in Plano received third place. Additionally, the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in St. Helena, California will offer scholarships to all three to placers.

- Jessica Dupuy

 

 

 

 

 

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Friday, October 14, 2011

Texas Wine of the Month: Duchman Family Winery Montepulciano 2009

A lesson in Italian pronunciation…

VinoVee-noh

Chianti - Key-on-tee

Prosecco – Pro-sek-ko

Montepulciano – (you can do this…) Mon-teh-pool-chee-ah-no

Again… Mon-teh-pool-chee-ah-no…

Multo Bene!Mool-toe Beh-nay!

Don’t let the pronunciation intimidate you from ordering it if you see it on a menu. Among Italy’s well known wines including Chianti, Barolo, Barbaresco, and Super Tuscans, you should know Montepulciano as a red Italian grape variety widely planted throughout central and southern Italy producing a deep-colored wine with moderate acidity and ripened dark fruit.

(Not to throw a wrench in your brief wine education here, but Montepulciano should not be confused with Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, which is actually a highly respected Sangiovese-based wine from Montepulciano, a medieval hill village in the Chianti region of Tuscany.)

But for the sake of this post, all you need to know is that Montepulciano is an Italian varietal that just happens to be doing very well in Texas, and Duchman Family Vineyards has one to prove it—and at a decent price too! (~$15 retail.) Looking for a great food wine to serve at your next dinner party? this is the one.

It has a great dark fruit character on the nose and palate with a bit of tannic texture, but not near enough to make your mouth begin to pucker. It’s a tad high in acidity, which means you’ll likely begin to salivate after letting this sit on your tongue for a while. Acidity is a great component of wine that gives it its structure and vibrance. And a higher level of acidity, makes for a great wine to enjoy with food, particularly foods that balance that acidity such as classic Italian fare rich in tomatoes, garlic, and onion. But don’t take my word for it, take the advice of Brad Sharp, Certified Sommelier and Certified Specialist of Wine who runs the wine and beverage program at Austin’s Fonda San Miguel.

Sharp’s selection for Texas Wine of the Month is the Duchman Family Winery Montepulciano, 2009.

“I’m already thinking of what to serve at Thanksgiving this time of year. There’s so much pressure to serve the right wine. Thankfully, this year it’s easy. By a long shot. The Duchman Montepulciano screams to me an example of a specific Italian grape with distinct Italian characteristics learning a new soil in Texas. The sour cherry, black cherry and orange peel notes on this dry, medium-bodied wine pair well with roasted lamb, pasta dishes, or even chipotle-roasted turkey,” says Sharp.

Duchman sources its Montepulciano from The Reddy Vineyards in the High Plains AVA, where many Texas grapes are grown. Sharp is a particular fan of Duchman for its consistency in wine producing, and adds that the Montepulciano is the perfect Holiday wine. “This particular wine displays such potential, I say Drink this Now!” Sharps work at Fonda San Miguel has earned the restaurant a coveted Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator for the first time in its 35-year history. He’ll be showing off his wine knowledge and pairing expertise at an upcoming wine pairing dinner featuring the Spanish wines of Lerin Wines, which represents some of Spain’s most exclusive bodegas.  The dinner on November 2 will showcase a 5-course dinner including fried oysters, a duo of ceviche, steamed mussels with tomato chipotle sauces, roasted pork Veracruzano, and lamb chops with chile morita and roasted corn flan. Hungry now? For reservations call: 512-459-4121.

But in the mean time, swing by your area Spec’s, Central Market, or Whole Foods. As Sharp says, “This wine has such great potential that I say, drink this now!”

Winery: Duchman Family Winery

Price: ~$15

Availability: Spec’s, Whole Foods Market, Central Market

 

 

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Friday, August 19, 2011

TEXSOM: Wines, Winners, and Legends

TEXSOM. Say it like it sounds. Tech-Somm. No, it’s not a new form of Texas cuisine, as in Tex-Mex. And no, it’s not a new style of Texas line dancing blended with the Samba. It stands for the Texas Sommelier Conference and if you’re in the wine industry, you’ve at least heard of it, if not become a regular attender.

TEXSOM 2011 was held just last week at the Four Seasons Hotel Resort and Club in Colinas following the Court of Master Sommeliers Level 1 Course and exam. It’s actually the only one of its kind in the country. Formed by Texas-based Master Sommeliers James Tidwell of the Four Seasons Las Colinas and Drew Hendricks of Pappas Bros., the conference is a central meeting place where sommeliers from across the nation (and globe) congregate to network, brush up on characteristics of specific grape varietals, regions, and basically taste a whole lot of wine. (In one day alone, I counted a total of 42 wines tasted. And just to be clear, no one with any common sense actually drinks the wine completely; you taste and spit, otherwise you’d be a stumbling fool.)

James Tidwell and Drew Hendricks

In its 8th year, the event, hosted by the not-for-profit organizations Texas Sommelier Association and the Wine and Food Foundation of Texas, has attracted more than 2,200 wine professionals from across the United States.

“Every year, the conference reflects greater diversity,” says Tidwell. “This year we featured an amazing vertical tasting with celebrated winemaker Serge Hochar, who traveled all the way from Lebanon and shared wines dating back to 1969. No other conference integrates all levels of the business and welcomes the public like this one does.”

In addition to the unparralleled experience of having Serge Hochar from Chateau de Musar–a rare occassion that brought a hush over a room full of sommeliers–TEXSOM hosted it’s annual competition to determine the Best Texas Sommelier of the Year, a key component that occurs in the background of the conference for a hand-picked 20 candidates from across the state. To participate, candidates must be a current resident of Texas and must not have passed the Court of Master Sommeliers’ Advanced Exam.

This year the distinction went to Bill Elsey, Director of Sales for D’Amore Wine Selections a wine distribution company owned by Duchman Family Winery.  Elsey outperformed his fellow Texas compatriots in an intense three-part examination involving service, blind tasting, and theory and proctored by a panel of Master Sommelier judges. (more…)

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Sunday, July 17, 2011

Texas Wine of the Month: McPherson Cellars Rosé of Syrah, 2009

This time of year, when the daily heat index hits triple digits and walking outside feels like getting punched in the face by a convection oven, I like to keep a chilled wine on hand at all times. It’s usually a rotation between three or four wines including a crisp German Riesling, the Vermentino from Duchman Family Vineyards, or the Rosé of Syrah fromMcPherson Cellars. Well ok, truth be told the McPherson Rosé is almost always in my fridge. It’s a refreshing showstopper wine that is delicious with hints of summer berries without being sweet; it’s beautiful in the glass with a deep strawberry color that makes an average blush wine blush; and it’s a steal at most large grocery and wine outlets for under $15. Oh, and it’s a Texas wine!

I love breaking this wine out when a friend stops by for an early evening chat over cheese and crackers—and somehow that seems to happen a lot now that I’ve started sharing this wine. (Note to self: keep a running supply of cheese and crackers on hand at all times.)

It never fails to impress. It’s a happy medium for even the most stubborn of wine drinkers; those who claim they only drink red wines regardless of what time of year it is, and those that swear by their buttery California Chardonnays or syrupy sweet White Zinfandels. Somehow Kim McPherson, owner and winemaker of McPherson Cellars, has managed to please everyone. (Note: He may have achieved this with wine, but don’t ask this fiery, outspoken, and often zaney character to go into politics just yet.)

And I’m not the only one who thinks so. Texas sommelier, Devon Broglie, who coordinates all wine, coffee, and a number of other specialty items for the Southwest Region of Whole Foods Market, is a fan too. Which is why this month’s Texas Wine of the Month isMcPherson Cellars Rosé of Syrah, 2009.

Having spent the past decade honing his palate with a stint in harvesting and wine production Bodegas Costers del Siurana in Spain, the distinction of having passed the Advanced Level Exam for the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2007 and as the winner of Texas’ Best Sommelier Competion for 2006 at the Texas Sommelier Conference, Broglie is passionate about wine. And he’s proud of where Texas wine is going, particularly with winemakers like Kim McPherson.

“What Kim McPherson doesn’t know about Texas grape growing and wine making isn’t worth knowing,” says Broglie. “Kim has a modest, clean cellar operation in an old Coca Cola plant in Lubbock and access to some of the best grapes and vineyards in the Texas High Plains.  His Rosé of Syrah has fresh, crunchy red fruit with cherry, strawberry, raspberry, Rosé petal and spice.  It is delish and crisp and perfect for the summer heat.”

You should also soon see McPherson’s latest Rosé of Grenache-Syrah 2010 release. “I got lucky in 2010 with a good supply of Grenache and used it for this Rosé,” says McPherson. “It turned out to be really good. Next year I may add cinsault to the blend, but either way, I’ll probably always make a rose each year, if only because I like drinking them so much!”

So before the dog days of summer run out—don’t worry, there’s no sign of that happening any time soon—do your best to stay cool, always be prepared for last-minute visitors to drop by, and by all means, keep a McPherson Cellars Rosé of Syrah (or Grenache-Syrah) in your refrigerator!

Winery: McPherson Cellars

Retail Price: ~$13

Availability: Most Texas grocery chains including HEB, Central Market, Whole Foods as well as Spec’s and Twin Liquors.

- Jessica Dupuy

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